ehenn34 Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 whats up everybody, so like i said, i dont have much knowledge about mods, etc.. i'm lookin to make my bike faster. i have a 2000 shee... know the basics, pipes, reeds, air filter... didnt purchase anything yet, so some ideas would help. i will be ridin trails, some agressive, and will be opening it up... so i'm lookin for mods to balance that out... dont want to go nuts, want to use regular gas, and dont want to spend a whole lot of money, minus the pipes. i'm lost w/ portin. can u port ur stock cylinders, and what exactly is it doin. sorry if these questions sound stupid, but i m lost, so any help would be appreciated.. thanks p.s. i live right outside philly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Porting in a nutshell is having someone machine your cylinders, they change how air and fuel get into your motor and how it exits. Based on your input to whoever is going to port your motor, they will modify your cylinders accordingly for your riding types and styles. You mentioned balance..and ironically, you need to do just that. All the power in the world isn't going to do nothing without being able to get it to the ground and use it. Gearing, tire selection, swingarm length, suspension setup are all very important in maintaining that "balance"... Here's your best bet. First figure out how much money you have to work with, what your expectations are....and how soon you want all your stuff to be done. Then figure out how much you can do yourself, vs. what you need help on or having someone else do all together.... Then make some calls. If a builder talks down to you, treats you like shit or doesn't call you back, move on to the next one. It's your money providing their livelyhood, and the really good ones don't ever forget that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trueraiderfan Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 yes you can port stock cylinders wait make that a HELL ya you can and whe you do you will really wake that biach up also If I were you I would get a woods or mx port and t-5 pipes -1 on the front sproket and mabye some 30mm flatslide carbs for good measure that should be a great woods bike and as far as the porting goes you should be able to get that dopne for like 250 tops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehenn34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 ok, with the research i've done on here so far and what u told me, i've came to these conclusions. seems to be the t5's, vf3 reeds, mx/trail port , k & n air filter, timin plate +4??, lightened flywheel, water pump impeller??? sound good for what i'm lookin for? am i missing anything? or something i stated i dont need? thanks alot fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trueraiderfan Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 (edited) I dunno if I wouold lighten your flywheel cause that takes away from your bottom end and your going to need all of that you can get in the woods even if you have long straightaway's, but yes everything else sounds great to me Edited January 16, 2007 by trueraiderfan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehenn34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 I dunno if I wouold lighten your flywheel cause that takes away from your bottom end and your going to need all of that you can get in the woods even if you have long straightaway's, but yes everything else sounds great to me ok cool. thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bansh-eman Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 I dunno if I wouold lighten your flywheel cause that takes away from your bottom end and your going to need all of that you can get in the woods even if you have long straightaway's, but yes everything else sounds great to me umm actuallt that shoul dmake your bottom end a little bitter making you get into the powerband sooner... but if your riding trails then you dont have that wieght to carry and the motor tends to bog out...i run mine stock wieght and dont plan on changing it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehenn34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 umm actuallt that shoul dmake your bottom end a little bitter making you get into the powerband sooner... but if your riding trails then you dont have that wieght to carry and the motor tends to bog out...i run mine stock wieght and dont plan on changing it... k thats out... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 If you are lugging the bike in lower RPMs, yeah, I wouldn't recommend the lightened flywheel. I loved how my bike ran, stock porting, with T5 pipes, etc. But, I rode it in faster trails and NO tight, technical ones. But, if you're gonna be on the gas in these trails, go for it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehenn34 Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 If you are lugging the bike in lower RPMs, yeah, I wouldn't recommend the lightened flywheel.I loved how my bike ran, stock porting, with T5 pipes, etc. But, I rode it in faster trails and NO tight, technical ones. But, if you're gonna be on the gas in these trails, go for it... so ur sayin ,if i'm goin to be ridin faster trails , lighten the flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FasterThanU90 Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 no i wouldnt recommend it more flywheel weight would give u more bottom for example those trials bike have fat flywheels and there all bottom, just leave it stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtomblin Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 Might also want to consider a cool head. It wont make you faster but it will help protect your from overheating. Depending on what the specific conditions you ride you may want to get the adadpter plate and keep the airbox for your K&N. Just my .02 from personal experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 ok, with the research i've done on here so far and what u told me, i've came to these conclusions. seems to be the t5's, vf3 reeds, mx/trail port , k & n air filter, timin plate +4??, lightened flywheel, water pump impeller??? sound good for what i'm lookin for? am i missing anything? or something i stated i dont need? thanks alot fellas If your going to run an air box make sure you get the prodesign kit with the K&n dont get a stock replacement K&N. Or you could just run clamp on K&N filters right on the carbs. Instead of the Fly wheel mod get you a Noss Head. They use the stock head studs, up the compression, and cool better. If you wanted to up the compression as much as possibe I would get the cylinders ported and put them on and break it in with the stock head. Do a compression check with a high quality compresison gauge. Then call noss and talk to them about what size domes to get with the head first. Porting will change the compression so it would be a good idea to get a good base line with the stock head. That way noss can help you make a better more accurate decision on the head dome size you need to still run 91 or 93 octane fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 no i wouldnt recommend it more flywheel weight would give u more bottom for example those trials bike have fat flywheels and there all bottom, just leave it stock You obviously haven't ridden a banshee with a lightened flywheel. This advice holds true for a single cylinder two or 4 stroke, NOT a banshee. If you haven't actually rode a banshee or owned one with a shaved flywheel, you should't be giving advice like this. Yes, for faster trails, a shaved flywheel with a mid and up pipe (like T5s) is a great thing, especially paired with a timing advance. I put a lightened flywheel on mine and a timing plate, and it really woke up my stock motor...and I loved it for trails. Easier to ride, easier to get on the pipe, and it smoothed out the "hit" since it got on the pipe sooner. I did...however, have to turn up my idle maybe 200 to 300 RPM....so, for SLOW, tight technical trails it is probably not a great idea.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehenn34 Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 yea, i did forget to mention the cool head. i will also look into that ... with all this work done would it be smart to look into diff. a arms, etc... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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