snowprophet1 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Posted June 6, 2006 A 4mm stroker crank= cheap. A 7mm stroker crank=twice as much. Assuming I can trench the case myself to save $, is the 7mm cub setup that much stronger than a 4mm? I weigh about 180lbs, and want to asphalt drag, but will probably dirt drag the majority of the time. I heard the 10mm stroker is better for hills but not as desireable if I want to run 1/4 mile? Which crank/cub setup does everyone recommend for drags? Quote
blueshee03 Posted June 6, 2006 Report Posted June 6, 2006 A 4mm stroker crank= cheap. A 7mm stroker crank=twice as much. Assuming I can trench the case myself to save $, is the 7mm cub setup that much stronger than a 4mm? I weigh about 180lbs, and want to asphalt drag, but will probably dirt drag the majority of the time. I heard the 10mm stroker is better for hills but not as desireable if I want to run 1/4 mile? Which crank/cub setup does everyone recommend for drags? in my oppinion ,the 421 cub setup with a good drag port is probally the best overall drag setup when you compare cost and performance outcome. you could also build a 10 mill for not a whole lot more than a 7 mill. Quote
23champ Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 If you got the money you may as well go for the 10mm cause the cost is about the same as a 7mm. I got a 4mm drag ported cub, and I wish I'd have went bigger. Dont get me wrong, its pretty quick, but it aint no 10mm..... Quote
locogato11283 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 i have both and in dirt in a drag the 10mm puts a pretty good whoopin on the 4mm...i will have an even better comparison once my over ride for the 4mm gets cut. bikes are setup identical. rider weight is the same and experience is the same. ill let you know the results once the 4mm tranny is cut. Quote
snowprophet1 Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Posted June 7, 2006 Well, you guys got me scrapping the 4mm setup and thinkin hard about the 7mm and 10 mm cub setup!! Right now I have an override tranny, and stock basket and crank/basket gears. What HAS TO be upgraded to run either or both setups? Will my factory gears hold up, etc? Thanks for your GREAT input. Quote
locogato11283 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 Well, you guys got me scrapping the 4mm setup and thinkin hard about the 7mm and 10 mm cub setup!! Right now I have an override tranny, and stock basket and crank/basket gears. What HAS TO be upgraded to run either or both setups? Will my factory gears hold up, etc? Thanks for your GREAT input. dont even bother with the 7mm. just go straight to 10mm. you REALLY need a lock up and straight cut gears. as for your actual tranny, the over ride you have now will be fine. Quote
ellison445 Posted June 7, 2006 Report Posted June 7, 2006 Stephen running a 10 mm now ???? Or did you buy another bike on the low dont even bother with the 7mm. just go straight to 10mm. you REALLY need a lock up and straight cut gears. as for your actual tranny, the over ride you have now will be fine. Quote
snowprophet1 Posted June 7, 2006 Author Report Posted June 7, 2006 Will any 10mm crank be ok (cast like the stockers), or does it have to be a billet crank? I started calling for prices, and hopefully I called all the most expensive places already! Any good prices on a decent crank? (New of course.)? Thanks again all of you! Quote
banshee332 Posted June 8, 2006 Report Posted June 8, 2006 Will any 10mm crank be ok (cast like the stockers), or does it have to be a billet crank? I started calling for prices, and hopefully I called all the most expensive places already! Any good prices on a decent crank? (New of course.)? Thanks again all of you! Billet cranks are not cheap, but thats what I have and i got it from twister. really nice crank I think I paid 1100 for the crank. You can also so get billet cranks from crankworks, I think. anyhow for a 10mill I would go with a billet not a forged crank. Thats just my .02 Quote
lowriderb Posted June 12, 2006 Report Posted June 12, 2006 the billet cranks are better than the regular ones.. call crankworks or twister for them.. i would do the 10mm over the 7, for the few hundred that it may cost more at the time youll be happier with the outcome.. with the 10mm i wouldnt worry with the straight cuts just yet (unless youve got 600 bucks to spend on them), i would more worry about getting a better clutch basket.. with the 14mm cub that we put together the stock basket lasted all of about 8 passes then had to be switched to another one to get 8 or so more passes before that one was shot (were out of town and the billet basket didnt make it in, straight cuts and billet basket are now on it).. launching in 2nd (2-5) with 17/44 gearing 22in 14paddle extremes.. the 10mm cub that was put together ran about the same everything else but the tires and gearing were different running 15/39 and 25in 13paddle extremes.. we also have a 7mm cub and 4mm cub (mine) that have been ran and the two bikes were about even in the stock chassis (mine had a little more weight loss than the 7mm).. Quote
locogato11283 Posted June 14, 2006 Report Posted June 14, 2006 with the 10mm i wouldnt worry with the straight cuts just yet (unless youve got 600 bucks to spend on them), 600 bucks for straight cuts??!!! where the hell are you buying your parts?? and i definetely do not agree with that at all. i would recommend putting straight cuts in a 4mm if u have the 385 bucks they cost from FAST. why add stress to your crank if you dont have to? Quote
Justintoxicated Posted June 14, 2006 Report Posted June 14, 2006 (edited) Last I heard they were having problems with the 10 mil cubs eating reeds. They have to be replaced often. Guy I spoke with said his friend's V-force2 reeds were trashed after everyu ride or 2. Something about the stock size reed cages can't handle the flow in a 10 mil cub. What are you guys doing to prvent reed failures? If your going to go with a 10 mil you might as well just get cheata cylinders and scrap the cub. It's not That much more and allows for the proper size reeds, and has powervalves. Edited June 14, 2006 by Justintoxicated Quote
locogato11283 Posted June 15, 2006 Report Posted June 15, 2006 Last I heard they were having problems with the 10 mil cubs eating reeds. They have to be replaced often. Guy I spoke with said his friend's V-force2 reeds were trashed after everyu ride or 2. Something about the stock size reed cages can't handle the flow in a 10 mil cub. What are you guys doing to prvent reed failures? If your going to go with a 10 mil you might as well just get cheata cylinders and scrap the cub. It's not That much more and allows for the proper size reeds, and has powervalves. who did u hear this from? my 10mm cub has lasted me a dune trip, and 3 hillclimbs now with no issues..just wondering where that info is comin from so i can read about it. as far as price difference i think a lot depends on whether or not you already have a head, reeds, etc... Quote
Justintoxicated Posted June 15, 2006 Report Posted June 15, 2006 (edited) who did u hear this from? my 10mm cub has lasted me a dune trip, and 3 hillclimbs now with no issues..just wondering where that info is comin from so i can read about it. as far as price difference i think a lot depends on whether or not you already have a head, reeds, etc... Sure I was talking to Gary @ Quicksand about riding and it came up that his friend has been having alot of problems with the reeds on his 10 mil, He said it really rips but they wear out fast. After speaking to some others a 7 mil with large pistons is pushing the limits on the stock size reeds already. I believe there may be some info on planet sand as well, but I have not read up much on it since I'm just going to get a 4 mil anyways. Loco what reeds are you using? Edited June 15, 2006 by Justintoxicated Quote
locogato11283 Posted June 15, 2006 Report Posted June 15, 2006 im using vf3's...i do know that 10mm cub is about the biggest you can go and still have efficient flow for the motor. any bigger and ive heard the reeds just wont flow enough. i think the cheetahs use a cr500 reed cage. and those are flippin huge. Quote
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