New motor start up?'s

[DemonShee]

I am hoping to have my quad together by Sat night for a ride on Sun. What is the best way to make sure everything is ok on the fresh motor before I start it and also when I do start it. Is it best to kick start the new motor or go the lazy route and have someone pull start ya?

 

 

What is the best break in procedure for it? I have always been of the school to take it easy on it for a good heat cycle and then ride it like you want to ride it always. But I have never had this much $$$ into a motor before either nor such a high HP motor.

 

Thanks all in advance.

[FasterThanU90]

Kick start always u should never have to pull start a bike and is this a cub motor?

[DemonShee]

Not a cub. It's a 4mm long rod stroker.

[csrmel]

i use motomans break in secrets.

 

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[yamahakid1]

i have always been told warm it up til its hot, then ride it about a mile or 2 come back and let it cool down to the touch. Then start it and ride it like you stole it, this is the best way to break your bike in honestly.

[ssanddemon]

Motoman is a god. His rules on break in are right on the money- high cylinder pressures on the fresh crosshatch will finely set the rings for maximum life. Make sure to change out the gear oil pretty quickly after the first ride, and do it while hot. You may see some fine metal and silicone sealer come out after any major build.

[ssanddemon]

so according to motoman the manufacturers, the ones who built the motor, don't know what they are talking about then? I am stickin to the old school heat cycles and going through the rpms but not for very long and slowly building up the rpms. 

I heard from a guy who builds racing engines for go karts that an old "seasoned" block is better because the metal has been through heat cycles and is less prone to cracking/breaking. He prefers to use old motors and makes i think 25hp turning 14,000 rpm from like a 5hp block.

517449[/snapback]

That's fine. Your motor won't die (significantly) sooner or be less prone to breakage if you baby it and heat cycle it- it just won't run as hard as the guy who does a proper break in. Just about any reputable race engine builder breaks in motors on the dyno. You think they are letting it idle? Hell no, it's getting run right into the power band and staying there after cam break-in.

[ssanddemon]

I'm not really babying mine right now just not holding it WOT going through the gears like I normally would. I've got less than an hour on the motor but am varying the throttle and getting in the power band and keeping a load on it. I just wanted to make sure it was jetted and running right before I got on it since it was the first time I rebuilt the motor without any help.

517487[/snapback]

Well, that's good. It is a mistake to hold it on the power for any real length of time- the new parts expand from heat, and giving a cool down period between power application will keep the pistons from scuffing. What is important is cylinder pressure, not rpm. This means that the engine needs to be loaded; this can be done just as easily at the bottom of the power band as the top. Obviously, if any mods were done while the engine was apart, the main thing is to make sure it isn't running too lean. A poor setup isn't going to do a new motor any favors at all.

My own personal belief in regard to the manufacturer's poor break-in directions is this: the critical aspect to a "power" break-in is to change the oil VERY frequently to remove the metal from the engine. Very few new vehicle buyers can be trusted to do this, and engine damage will occur. I went thru this with my dad last year when he bought a new honda outboard motor. He insisted on following the lame break-in directions, which included putt-putting and the first oil change at 50 hours. Personally, i would have run the motor hard and changed the oil after 1/2 hour and again after 5 more, then again at 20 hours. I would have then considered it fully broke in. But he did it their way and his oil almost instantly turns dark after oil changes due to poor ring seal. Go figure.

[[email protected]]

let it warm up for 5 minutes , then proceed to do these steps

 

- REV UP , POP CLUTCH

- SHIFT THUR AS MANY GEARS WHILE HOLDING THE FRONT BREAK

- WHEN U SMELL RUBBER SHIFT INTO 6TH

- then go back to ure mechanich and tell him it runs good if it held up

 

 

DONT LISTEN TO THAT

[ssanddemon]

I know when we broke in the big block it was an oil change after the first 15 minutes (cam)

and a couple more times before 1000 miles. Gets expensive when its a 9 quart pan. Right now im making sure its getting fuel as soon as I let off the gas, blipping the throttle and pulling in the clutch more than I normally would.

517526[/snapback]

Cool. You know not to hold in the clutch down long hills, right?

[FasterThanU90]

wow ive heard alot on engine break in and now i think im gonna change my ways even Jeff at Fast said to do "heat cycles"or whatnot and let it idle while letting it into the powerband shortly i let it idle till warm about twice but now i think im just gonna take it out and let it RIP go through the gears then let it decelerate on its own and go through the gears again what do u guys think?

[ssanddemon]

wow ive heard alot on engine break in and now i think im gonna change my ways even Jeff at Fast said to do "heat cycles"or whatnot and let it idle while letting it into the powerband shortly i let it idle till warm about twice but now i think im just gonna take it out and let it RIP go through the gears then let it decelerate on its own and go through the gears again what do u guys think?

517549[/snapback]

I am always hearing 'heat cycles' on new break-in and I can't really wrap my head around it. But the fact that Jeff suggests it lends some weight. The thing that makes sense to me is a couple of good warmup-and-cool downs then a retorque of the head and cyclinder bolts due to gaskets settling into place and shrinking a bit. The last shee motor I put together lost about 10 ft lbs on the head nuts after cooling down the first time. Other than that, I'm blank because it's not heat treating- that's done at very high temps using extremely gradual and precise heating and cooling processes.

Anyone wanna clue me in on heat cycles: pro/con/irrelvant?

[FasterThanU90]

yah the head nuts came a little loose but no biggie it also says not using sythetic oils are there talking about premix right? if so what do u guys suggest?

[ssanddemon]

The "no synth" thing is for tranny oil, the clutch hates that stuff. I use John Deere tractor oil, works great. Lots of guys using Bel Ray Gearsaver or the like, lots of others use ATF. This sez to me that gear oil is not a real picky thing with these bikes. I use Benol for the mix oil in mine, but I should've switched after I did the top end and ported it last time around- leaves shitty deposits in the exhaust ports. My buddy uses honda HP-4 synthetic and is real happy with it. We didn't find any deposits on his exhaust ports at all last time it was open.

[FasterThanU90]

i have gear saver in both bikes i think 80 or 85 wt think i should switch it up for break in?