Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 (edited) Ok, doing a top-end rebuild including a port job. Was going to use Gorr, but since he is not available any more, I will use Jeff at FAST. Most likely getting a mild dune port. Anyway, when I removed the cool head, it did not want to come off. All bolts were off, but I really had to pry it loose. Once I was "loose" it seemed like there was one head stud that was holding it in. Maybe it was slightly bent? Is this normal sometimes??? Now I have the cylinders off, but how do the wrist pins from the pistons come off? I know I need to remove them, but was not sure about these since they have no obvious way to remove them. They seem like a complete circle? Also, can anyone tell what type of pistons these are? They seem to be in good shape. I was running between 32-38:1 Amsoil for 2-3 years with this setup. Bike was running very strong, but had very little compression when kicking it over. I could literally kick it over with one finger on the kick starter. Not start it, just easily push it through to the bottom. Edited April 22, 2006 by Banshee0028 Quote
Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Posted April 22, 2006 Also, very important...Here is a pic of the Cool Head and 18cc domes it was running. I was running pump gas, here in FL at pretty much sea level. Seems like even with pump gas, there was no detination, or issues with these domes on pump gas, but most people say that anything less than 20cc's need to run or mix race gas!! Any ideas how I was running these 18cc's without any issues? Quote
Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Posted April 22, 2006 Last one of the domes.... Quote
lowriderb Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 (edited) it must have been magic..lol the pins pistons usually dont like to come out easy after theyve been run.. but have you taken out the circlips? they also look to be stock pistons.. if not some cast piston.. Edited April 22, 2006 by lowriderb Quote
Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Posted April 22, 2006 the pins pistons usually dont like to come out easy after theyve been run.. but have you taken out the circlips? 505903[/snapback] I quess that is what I was referring to, the circlips. Have not tried too much yet, but did not see an easy way to remove them... I also had a manuall on pdf, but cant seem to find it now...If anyone wants to help out with that, feel free.... Quote
rsheppick Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 (edited) I quess that is what I was referring to, the circlips. Have not tried too much yet, but did not see an easy way to remove them...I also had a manuall on pdf, but cant seem to find it now...If anyone wants to help out with that, feel free.... Edited April 22, 2006 by rsheppick Quote
Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Posted April 22, 2006 They are easy to remove, i would hope you will be getting new pistons so dont worry about scratching the hole the pin and clip are in. Just get a needle nose or something and pry it out. It isn't worth being nice to the piston if ur going to replace it. Once that curclip is out wala the pin will come out. Please make sure when you put it back together the arrows on the pistons are facing forward. Also get a new stud set for it and oring do not reuse the orings. I really recommend you replace the studs though. 505974[/snapback] Thanks for the advice...I was going to replace all the orings, but was not planning on replacing the studs unless I needed to. Why should those be replaced as well? Since it was difficult to remove? Also, are they pretty easy to replace, and which brand would be good to replace them with? You are referring to the head stud set on the cylinders, not the ones on the case, right? If so I can just have Jeff install these for me when he does the porting.... Thanks. Quote
rsheppick Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 (edited) Thanks for the advice...I was going to replace all the orings, but was not planning on replacing the studs unless I needed to. Why should those be replaced as well? Since it was difficult to remove? Also, are they pretty easy to replace, and which brand would be good to replace them with? You are referring to the head stud set on the cylinders, not the ones on the case, right? If so I can just have Jeff install these for me when he does the porting.... Edited April 22, 2006 by rsheppick Quote
Banshee0028 Posted April 22, 2006 Author Report Posted April 22, 2006 Nothing against jeff. Order the studs from Pro Design or a simular place. Make sure they are for a coolhead as they are longer than stock. Install them yourself!!!!!!!...... Use antisease on them..... Yes the reason I say replace them is by your pictures and by the fact the coolhead was hard to remove... They cost 20 bucks why not just replace them why you are there. One less problem. Also go to lowes and get some copper washers and acorn nuts to put on top so it will look all nice and pretty. By the way the curclips that hold the pin in. they aren't a complete O its more like a full C. just find the opening and get urself a small flathead ect and pry it out. Are you going to have it bore/honed .10 over? it is recommended I think that you bore the juggs out so the new pistons have a nice clean place to seal. Just a side note. Please make sure you take special care in putting the orings back ( the new ones ) we don't want to see you getting coolent in one of the jugs. It doesn't make cood lubercant. Good Luck! Ronnie 506028[/snapback] Thanks for the advice Ronnie! Yea, for $20 I will get a set and put them in myself...I will make sure they are for the cool head also.... As for the boring, yea, I will bore it if needed, if not just hone it up some, but prob going to the next size if needed. I am getting new pistons (pro-lites) for whichever bore I need to use. Jeff will measure them and tell me which bore I would need, as well as bore them to that size. I will be carefull with the orings to make sure they are installed perfectly as well......Great advice .... Quote
8buck Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 Don't know if you've already got the wrist pins out or not but I just stuck the sharp end of a test light, or whatever, in that notch in the piston and popped the clips out. Quote
lowriderb Posted April 22, 2006 Report Posted April 22, 2006 if he's got a cool head that was held on by the nuts and studs then he already has the longer studs in there.. with that being said he shouldnt need to replace them .. when your putting the o-rings back on you could use some red rtv or something that will be tacky in order to hold the o-rings in that face the jugs (cylinder and outer) the stud o-rings will not need this and then the oring on the top as well.. just make very sure you dont pinch one or it will leak.. if you must remove the studs and do not have a stud puller (snap on makes one), you can just take two of the 12mm head nuts and back them together and tighten them against on another and back the stud out with no problems.. Quote
strokersquid Posted April 24, 2006 Report Posted April 24, 2006 does the pin come out easy ? i dont care about the piston but i dont want to mess up the rod. Quote
suzuki0702 Posted April 24, 2006 Report Posted April 24, 2006 hey dude get a clymers manual...best 20 i ever spent!!!! Quote
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