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SWINGARM LENGTH?


TROYBOY

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HEY GUYS,

 

I'M HAVING A 4MIL STROKER WITH CUB CYLINDERS BUILT AT CASCADE INNOVATIONS RIGHT NOW. THIS IS MY FIRST MAJOR QUAD BUILD. I'VE BEEN RIDING DUNES AND TRAILS FOR YEARS AND CONSIDER MY SELF TO BE A GOOD RIDER. (i JUST SWITHCED FROM A 310'D ATC 250R THAT WAS STRECHED OUT W/ A +4"). I COMPLETELY TRUST CASCADE FOR THEIR OPINIONS, BUT WHEN THEY RECOMENDED A +8 SWINGER I THOUGHT THAT WAS A BIT MUCH. MIKE AT CASCADE REASSURED ME AND I AM INTENDING TO GO WITH THE +8, BUT I JUST THOUGHT I'D GET A FEW MORE OPINIONS. THIS MOTOR HAS ALL OF THE "FIXINS". LOCKOUT CLUTCH,DYNA,V-FORCE,COOLHEAD SET TO RUN 104 OCTANE,T5'S ETC. ETC. THE BIKE IS JUST A DUNE PLAYER. WHAT DO YA THINK?!

 

 

THANKS...TROYBOY

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Ditch the T5's and go with some CPI or Shearers and then get a +4 to +8 swingarm. I doubt they are going to do anything other than cleanup on the cylinder but even then if you set it up right you might get into the upper 80's low 90's. I would only get a +4 if you still plan on dune riding.

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You could easily pull off a +4. It'll be a little snappy and u definately won't be able to let out 100% off the start line, but on the otherhand it'll still dune fairly well. I would say go +4 if your a duner that likes to drag, or +6 if your a dragger that likes to dune.

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if your gonna drag id go with 8+ to 10+with a 10 paddle tire with a 72-73in rollout.. should be a good combo.. u runnin a shock?

498354[/snapback]

 

 

He said the bike is a "dune player" so I'm assuming that means more than just dragging.

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Thanks for the insight, i'm thinkin about the +6. we do alot of hill shootin/idiot hills, and a fair amount of draggin at night. (definately more dunin' than draggin). I had a buddy that did the 4mil stroke, porting from trinity, shaved head, 32+- carbs, dyna,v-force and toomeyy t5's and ran with a +4. It was a good ride. +4 is still in the back of my mind. Whats the diffrence in stage four porting from trinity and a reasonably stock/unchainged cub cylinderin regaurds to horsepower output.

 

thanks for the help...troyboy

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  • 1 month later...

Hey I have some what of a similer set up on my bike, my buddies is probably closer to yours then mine. I had my bike ported by Cascade and I have a 4mil with the long rod crank. I had 50hp on Cascade's dyno before I did the port and long rod stroker crank and I had FMF pipes and stock carbs. I was running a +4" then and 9 paddle extremes and could hardly ever get the front end off the ground when riding dunes except over bumps and then gas'n it. Now I kept the +4" with the port, new carb, crank, first over bore, and Paul Turner pipes and the +4" was good with the 9 paddles. I liked it very much could I get the front end up a hole lot more easy. I then put the 10 paddles on and now I can almost get the front to come up at will I like this set up better and I can still do the hill climbs just fine. Cascade recomends the +8" so the front end does not come up at all or very little. Cascade is also running the 22" to 25" tall paddle tires mine are only 20". They told me +6" to the +8" too. My +4" is fun to ride, I am running stock gearing, was running 13 tooth on the front when I did not have the engine mods. My buddy Has the same set up with t5's, 28mm PWK's, 2nd over pistons and he likes the +4" too. We both have about 165 psi kicking compresen(19cc domes) and are running 104 Octane. Hope that helps. Can you tell I just like talking about my shee. :rotflmao:

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