wildbansheeboy Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 (edited) I plan on doing both but what is the best way to start by stroking my shee or big bore .My jugs already have a port job stage6 by dan hull at A&S what will I need to do to my jugs if I go stroker first. my main use of my shee is drag racing . Edited October 5, 2005 by wildbansheeboy Quote
PassionRE Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 You should contact Dan to see if the existing porting specs will accept a stroker crank first...if not, your only option left is the big bore....Jim Quote
wildbansheeboy Posted October 5, 2005 Author Report Posted October 5, 2005 I plan on talking to Dan to see if I can run my jugs can be run with a stroker.When the porting was done I was not planning to go any bigger but know I need to keep up with my local drag racers who are getting a little faster.Will just a big bore kit help me alot or just a little (How many HP) Quote
BlinginBanshee Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 I plan on talking to Dan to see if I can run my jugs can be run with a stroker.When the porting was done I was not planning to go any bigger but know I need to keep up with my local drag racers who are getting a little faster.Will just a big bore kit help me alot or just a little (How many HP) 423053[/snapback] In my opinion Bore is no replacement for stroke the only time I see it being worth big boring a motor is if you already have enough stroke to move those pistons all the extra bore does in my eyes is slow the motor down due to having to throw more piston weight...my 02. Quote
Cotton eyed Joe Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 In my opinion Bore is no replacement for stroke the only time I see it being worth big boring a motor is if you already have enough stroke to move those pistons all the extra bore does in my eyes is slow the motor down due to having to throw more piston weight...my 02. 423062[/snapback] Hp is related to torque and rpm, so I'd say go with a stroke before a bore too. Quote
switchblade Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 If you go to a true big bore setup you will have to sleeve your cylinders and you will loses your porting. For the money I would go with a 4mill stroke which most port jobs will except with a spacer plate on the bottum. Then when you have saved have the cash buy some cubs for it. I heard some decent numbers out of the 4mill cub motors. You can go up to a 68mm bore with the cubs which would make it a 421. Quote
rocketboy Posted October 5, 2005 Report Posted October 5, 2005 id just sell those jugs on ebay and get yourself a cheetah cub mono and have it drag ported -not just a cleanup port and itll be a running summabitch Quote
locogato11283 Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 big bore is worthless. sell those cylinders and go with cubs... Quote
thegroup Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 this is my $.02. got to albaaction.com and get their stroker kit. for about $1500, it worth it (in my op. and i built a shee with this kit ) unless uve already got what the kit comes with Quote
Meat Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 (edited) iv got a few video clips of a blue banshee big bore beatin a 4mil in the 300 foot drag, on dirt. big bore setup is not as terrible as the stroker guys make em sound, either motor can be a winner. A well tuned big bore can haul ass and has a big broad powerband hit. I think "big bore" kits should not even be compared with a stroker crank, obvioulsy they're two completly different modifications with the only things in common are they both increase displacement and they both increase power. IMO big bore kit should prolly not be used unless your cylinder sleeves are maxxed out and you need a re-sleeve. Here's a question. Does anyone know the dollar to HP ratio for each setup ?? Someone please tell me a downside of running a 4mil stroker crank. It can't be all good, there has to be a tradeoff when you stroke um, slower revving maybe, peakier dyno runs.... there has to be a scientific verifable disadvantage of a stroker crank . Edited October 6, 2005 by Meat Quote
thegroup Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 Here's a question. Does anyone know the dollar to HP ratio for each setup ?? Someone please tell me a downside of running a 4mil stroker crank. It can't be all good, there has to be a tradeoff when you stroke um, slower revving maybe, peakier dyno runs.... there has to be a scientific verifable disadvantage of a stroker crank . 423474[/snapback] uses more gas Quote
97banshee350 Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 ok im not trying to take over this thread but what exacly is done when you make your shee a stroker?? Quote
thegroup Posted October 6, 2005 Report Posted October 6, 2005 ok im not trying to take over this thread but what exacly is done when you make your shee a stroker?? 423695[/snapback] more stroke, more power Quote
Blue Duece Posted October 7, 2005 Report Posted October 7, 2005 heres the way a friend explained it to me.........i have a 425+ cc stock banshee, and you have a race ported stroked 370.................thats why you jump out of the whole 3 bikes in front of me................with out being to technical he pretty much hit the nail on the head for me......... Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted October 7, 2005 Report Posted October 7, 2005 I'm not too certain about the effects strokers have on the banshee setup. however... In automotive applications strokers do not usually turn the RPM's that unstroked motors will. IE the reason why you generally get more Torque, but not as much peak HP out of a stroker, since HP is essentially Torque over time (added RPM). So all else the same, you would not get the RPM out the stroker. Again my knowledge of stroker setups come from auto apps. In theory should be the same, but maybe I'm all wet? Quote
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