bansheeryder21 Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 I am installing my noss head and 20cc domes as we speak. I came across a question. When removing the old head, do you take off the head gasket or leave it on with the new one? Please somebody help quick because I am in the process right now! Also, will I need to rejet? dlnoss said that I have to mix with race gas now but did not say anything about rejeting. I am at sea level. Thanks for all the help HQ'ers! Quote
bobbybonilla Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 I took my head gasket out. Just watch the gasket it has sharp edges. I just used the orings that came with the head, and havent had a bit of problems since. Quote
locogato11283 Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 take it off...most if not all of the aftermarket heads use o rings...clean it up top of cylinders before you install the head.. Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted September 23, 2005 Author Report Posted September 23, 2005 (edited) what about the jetting? I will be running 20% race with 20cc domes at sea level! Edited September 23, 2005 by bansheeryder21 Quote
bigboybanshee Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 take it off...most if not all of the aftermarket heads use o rings...clean it up top of cylinders before you install the head.. 418405[/snapback] Exactly. Do not run the stock head gasket, it is not needed. You would probably encounter problems if you did install the head gasket along with the o-rings in the head. Quote
locogato11283 Posted September 23, 2005 Report Posted September 23, 2005 what about the jetting? I will be running 20% race with 20cc domes at sea level! 418406[/snapback] shouldnt need to do much if anything. just check ur plugs after u install and see how they look. Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted September 24, 2005 Author Report Posted September 24, 2005 Thanks for the help guys! I appreciate it! Bike runs great. Noticed a difference taking it down the street. I can't wait to get to the sand. I just have one more question. When checking compression, do you add both cylinders together to get the total compression or does one tell you the total compression. Just asking because before the compression gage read 60 psi when it should read about 130psi. And after it read 90 psi when it should read about 170-180 psi. Or maybe my compression tester just sucks ass! Quote
Guest blew duece Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 (edited) you test one jug at a time, most guys hold the throtlle wide open when you dry boot it ( i really dont know why) and keep a plug in the side they are not testing, make sure the tester is tight and not leaking and give the bike 4-5 robust kicks and then look at the gauge...........if you got an acurite 60 psi, you need a rebuild...but if both cylinders read the same within 5 psi..id maybe try a diffent gauge if ya can..you check them both cause its kind of telling you the wear for that jug so if you had say 110 in the right side and 70 in the left it would tell you that the left side needs rings and is wearing faster than the right, but when you do pistons and rings which you should do around every 40 hours of riding on a two cycle (but most of us just ride the shit out of our bikes).you rebuild both jugs, then break it back in and ride i think stock at sea level a banshee has around 90-100 psi (i could be wrong though)....PSI testers......craftsman makes a ok one..snapon makes a killer one, on Noss's website theres a graph that will tell you what your psi should be at sea level with 20cc domes......you wont get 190 psi out of 20's......you willl need some motor work and maybe 18's for that........ Edited September 24, 2005 by blew duece Quote
dlnoss Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 I've been on vacation for a week and logged in a couple of times from a nearby library. Sorry I didn't respond but it looks like you got good answers. -David Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted September 24, 2005 Author Report Posted September 24, 2005 you test one jug at a time, most guys hold the throtlle wide open when you dry boot it ( i really dont know why) and keep a plug in the side they are not testing, make sure the tester is tight and not leaking and give the bike 4-5 robust kicks and then look at the gauge...........if you got an acurite 60 psi, you need a rebuild...but if both cylinders read the same within 5 psi..id maybe try a diffent gauge if ya can..you check them both cause its kind of telling you the wear for that jug so if you had say 110 in the right side and 70 in the left it would tell you that the left side needs rings and is wearing faster than the right, but when you do pistons and rings which you should do around every 40 hours of riding on a two cycle (but most of us just ride the shit out of our bikes).you rebuild both jugs, then break it back in and ride i think stock at sea level a banshee has around 90-100 psi (i could be wrong though)....PSI testers......craftsman makes a ok one..snapon makes a killer one, on Noss's website theres a graph that will tell you what your psi should be at sea level with 20cc domes......you wont get 190 psi out of 20's......you willl need some motor work and maybe 18's for that........ 418628[/snapback] Okay so lets say my compression level SHOULD be at 170 psi. Is each jug going to measure 170 psi or should each one measure 85 psi? Also, when you are checking the compression, do you leave the wire on the one side with the plug or take the wire off Quote
dlnoss Posted September 24, 2005 Report Posted September 24, 2005 Each side should have the full compression....170 for example. I remove both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. You should be around 155 - 165 with your setup. The part of the compression checker that threads into the dome (cylinder) should be the same length as the thread length on the spark plug for an accurate reading. Quote
bansheeryder21 Posted September 24, 2005 Author Report Posted September 24, 2005 Each side should have the full compression....170 for example. I remove both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. You should be around 155 - 165 with your setup. The part of the compression checker that threads into the dome (cylinder) should be the same length as the thread length on the spark plug for an accurate reading. 418775[/snapback] So I was only reading 110 in each cylinder. I think I just have a crappy tester. I bought it for $10. The threads are only half the length of the threads on the plug. The thing is, My bike runs like a champ so I just think it's the tester. Thanks for your help! Quote
Blue Duece Posted September 25, 2005 Report Posted September 25, 2005 (edited) davids advise is right on check,...... some guys leave a plug in, some guys pull both as far as the wire..do have the kill switch and key OFF or pull the plug cap since your going to check both jugs if the cheap tester says the same for both sides that says your OK, now document what it says and check once in a while for lower psi and drastic differences between jugs and that will tell you when to rebuild, good luck, glad to hear its flying....... Edited September 25, 2005 by Blue Duece Quote
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