TROYBOY Posted July 9, 2005 Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 I JUST BECAME A MEMBER, BUT I'VE BEEN WATCHING THE POSTS ON THIS FOR A WHILE AND THERE APPEARS TO BE SOME PRETTY SMART PEOPLE ON THIS SIGHT. I HAVE A 98 SHEE WITH T-5'S, A BOOST BOTTLE, AND A COOL HEAD(NOT SURE WHICH DOMES CAUSE I JUST GOT THE BIKE). STOCK CARBS HAVE THE TOOMEY NEEDLE ON 4TH POS. I TOOK IT TO COOS BAY OREGON AND WENT OUT FOR A PLUG CHECK. RAN IT FOR A HALF HOUR NICE AND EASY ON A NEW PLUG TO BUILD SOME COLOR, THEN DID A TOP END SHOT AND BLEW THE PLUG WHITE. I GOT BACK TO CAMP AND PULLED THE CARBS ONLY TO FIND A PAPER TOWEL IN THE THE LEFT HAND REED CAGE(IT LOOKED LIKE IT HAD BEEN THERE A WHILE.) I JUMPED TO A 320 MAIN AND IT WAS STILL BURNING WHITE. LONG STORY SHORT, I NOW HAVE A 430 MAIN JET IN THE STOCK CARBS OF A REASONABLY STOCK BIKE AND THE PLUG S BURN EVENLY AND A LIGHT CHOCLATE BROWN. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THERE IS NO WAY I SHOULD BE ABOVE A 320 OR 330 MAIN. IT'S OBVIOUSLY A MAJOR AIR LEAK, BUT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHERE. IS THIS A NOTORIOUS PROBLEM OR AM I THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS EVER HAD THIS HAPPEN. I'LL FED-EX A SIX PACK OF YER FAVORITES TO THE GUY THAT HELPS ME SOLVE THIS ONE... THANKS TROYBOY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilgf Posted July 9, 2005 Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 Put it all back together start it up and spray carb cleaner on the area around the reed cages,carb boots and carbs.you'll find it will rev higher when you spray it on the area with the leak My bets are on the carb boots are cracked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYBOY Posted July 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 THANKS... i'LL GIVE IT A TRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superchicken Posted July 9, 2005 Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 (edited) yep,that should do it but how does it feel on the top end with that big a main.if,you put it back together,and can find no leak try this.put the smaller mains,like 300-320 in her and run it .get it in the power band and pull the choke.if it bogs its too fat,witch in your case is a good thing,but if it jumps up and huals,it still means your way lean.now for another ? what are your running for filters? Edited July 9, 2005 by superchicken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYBOY Posted July 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 I just got it back together and when i sprayed the right hand carb where the boost bottle goes, it bogged down. Upon further inspection I found a crack on each neck. I am currently with stock carbs and running the k&n dual clamp on filters with no air box. Can anyone tell me where to find replacement intake boots without going through my local dealer. thanks...Troyboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilgf Posted July 9, 2005 Report Share Posted July 9, 2005 (edited) www.sudco.com http://www.sudco.com/catalog105/068-069.pdf Edited July 9, 2005 by neilgf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
race-a-holic Posted July 10, 2005 Report Share Posted July 10, 2005 Boost bottles are not only a waste of money,but they get in the way when working on the bike(clutter)and can cause air leaks.A friend of mine actually had to rebuild his bike because of one.It was rubbing against one of his' pipes and caused an air leak,leaned it out,and there went the motor.I prefer the stock cross-over tube. The toomey needles are longer than stock and this allows it to be more tapered.It allows the fuel to be let into the engine slower than short needles that let the main jet open up faster.I had T-5's,Trinity head w/20cc domes,K&N filters,v-force reeds,and a dyna ignition,and I was using a 420 main jet.It run good for a piped banshee.I bought a set of intakes(UPP) from Magic Racing.I really like them.Their ad can be found in Dirtwheels.I've had good luck with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincster Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 I run 370 mains and I have no air leaks. I run the Toomey 2:1 air filter system. You can go bigger than a 310-320. After you fix your air leaks, don't be afraid to jet big if the bike likes it. Order parts.... www.ronnies.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYBOY Posted July 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 THANKS FOR THE INFO, I JUST GOT DONE ON RONNIES.COM ORDERING 2 NEW INTAKE BOOTS FOR LESS THAN THE PRICE OF A COUPLE USED ONES ON EBAY. DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYTHING GOOD OR BAD TO SAY ABOUT THE BOOST BOTTLES. I STILL HAVE MY STOCK CROSS OVER TUBE AND I'M WILLING TO PUT IT BACK ON IF THE AFTERMARKET REALLY IS A LIABILITY AND A WASTE OF TIME. THANKS AGAIN, THIS SITE ROCKS!!!TROY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80overShee Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 THANKS FOR THE INFO, I JUST GOT DONE ON RONNIES.COM ORDERING 2 NEW INTAKE BOOTS FOR LESS THAN THE PRICE OF A COUPLE USED ONES ON EBAY. DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE ANYTHING GOOD OR BAD TO SAY ABOUT THE BOOST BOTTLES. I STILL HAVE MY STOCK CROSS OVER TUBE AND I'M WILLING TO PUT IT BACK ON IF THE AFTERMARKET REALLY IS A LIABILITY AND A WASTE OF TIME. THANKS AGAIN, THIS SITE ROCKS!!!TROY 391137[/snapback] Total waste of time. The only reason some people have them is it is a little more chrome to show off. My suggestion.....sell it on Ebay for about $20, its junk but people think they are cool. I know there were about 10 people that told me they "make a huge difference" me-"but have you tried one" them-"well.......no, but I was told though" I read on (I believe Toomey's) a site that the boost bottle is nothing but a gimmick like the "chip" you can put in your car that is sold on Ebay for about $10. The real one from the big names ($150+) is the real deal, but the others are a gimmick. Just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namshee Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 While we are on the subject (i'm glad troyboy brought it up...), my shee also std with now 310 main jets, PC platinum pipes & silencers and dura blue airfilter with no lid. My mix at the moment is 40:1, i am using TTS 2 stroke oil(castrol product and best synthetic oil on the market - by us at least ) and running 95 octane leaded, as per manufacturers instruction on the tank. The bike goes like hell , but it struggles with cold start. It really takes about 10 kicks to get it started (with choke out) and then it idles and dies and i have to go through same procedure again, untill there is enough heat to get the revs up - from there it's perfect. What worries me is the lean/rich issue...i spoke to the mechanic that services my shee and did the built over from stock (then it started very easy)to current(starts very easy once warm and riding - 1 kick sitting), and he said i must bring it in as it might be the air screw that needs turning... plse give me some comments - i'm at sea level, and temp ranges from 15-30 degrees celcius PS: I will try the choke thing when i'm out riding again this wend..tks superchicken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namshee Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 While we are on the subject (i'm glad troyboy brought it up...), my shee also std with now 310 main jets, PC platinum pipes & silencers and dura blue airfilter with no lid. My mix at the moment is 40:1, i am using TTS 2 stroke oil(castrol product and best synthetic oil on the market - by us at least ) and running 95 octane leaded, as per manufacturers instruction on the tank. The bike goes like hell , but it struggles with cold start. It really takes about 10 kicks to get it started (with choke out) and then it idles and dies and i have to go through same procedure again, untill there is enough heat to get the revs up - from there it's perfect. What worries me is the lean/rich issue...i spoke to the mechanic that services my shee and did the built over from stock (then it started very easy)to current(starts very easy once warm and riding - 1 kick sitting), and he said i must bring it in as it might be the air screw that needs turning... plse give me some comments - i'm at sea level, and temp ranges from 15-30 degrees celcius PS: I will try the choke thing when i'm out riding again this wend..tks superchicken 391459[/snapback] Sorrt, that fuel is UNLEADED and the TTS oil actually has a picture of a shee engine on it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rare Scottish Tree Badger Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 ... , but it struggles with cold start. It really takes about 10 kicks to get it started (with choke out) and then it idles and dies and i have to go through same procedure again, untill there is enough heat to get the revs up - from there it's perfect. What worries me is the lean/rich issue...i spoke to the mechanic that services my shee and did the built over from stock (then it started very easy)to current(starts very easy once warm and riding - 1 kick sitting), and he said i must bring it in as it might be the air screw that needs turning... plse give me some comments - i'm at sea level, and temp ranges from 15-30 degrees celcius 391459[/snapback] I had much the same trouble when I first got my bike. ... Temps were then around 10 degrees C. All I did was clean up the contacts on the flywheel and pickup coil, then set the gap to 0.018" and it would start first kick every time with choke on the first notch. Now that the temps are up, I've not needed to use the choke to start. (That's from 20 - 28 degrees C). My pilots are 25s and the air screws are 1 1/4 turns out. ... I've got porting and a milled head with 150psi compression (600ft above). So with your stock setup, with 25 pilots, you're more likely to be in the 1 1/2 to 2 turns out with the air screws. Rare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lincster Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 I would go up to 27.5 on the pilots, that will help your cold start problem. I run 30 pilots and when it is 45F outside at night, it starts on the 2nd kick with the choke all the way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
namshee Posted July 18, 2005 Report Share Posted July 18, 2005 I had much the same trouble when I first got my bike. ... Temps were then around 10 degrees C. All I did was clean up the contacts on the flywheel and pickup coil, then set the gap to 0.018" and it would start first kick every time with choke on the first notch. Now that the temps are up, I've not needed to use the choke to start. (That's from 20 - 28 degrees C). My pilots are 25s and the air screws are 1 1/4 turns out. ... I've got porting and a milled head with 150psi compression (600ft above). So with your stock setup, with 25 pilots, you're more likely to be in the 1 1/2 to 2 turns out with the air screws. Rare. 391530[/snapback] i actually started my bike this weekend without using the choke whatsoever, and it idled first kick and from there no problem. temp around 10-25 C. This normal? also have you ever heard abouth the 2-stroke oil that i mentioned? is it any good? tks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.