Jump to content

Oil Burning!


tyguy71

Recommended Posts

I just rebuilt my motor on my banshee. I put a new bottom and top end. The crank is stock, and the pistons are .020 over wisecos. I'm certain that i assembled it properly, because i had a blaster that i rebuilt several times. The problem is it wont quit burning crankcase oil. I only have probably one tank of gas thru it. Do you think it just needs more time for the rings to seat? or is there a bigger problem?

Could the machine shop have messed up the bore job??

 

It seems almost like its and intermitent thing, but im not sure.

Any help would be appreciated

Leave a message, or email at tyguy71@hotmail.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just rebuilt my motor on my banshee. I put a new bottom and top end. The crank is stock, and the pistons are .020 over wisecos. I'm certain that i assembled it properly, because i had a blaster that i rebuilt several times. The problem is it wont quit burning crankcase oil. I only have probably one tank of gas thru it. Do you think it just needs more time for the rings to seat? or is there a bigger problem? 

Could the machine shop have messed up the bore job??

 

It seems almost like its and intermitent thing, but im not sure.

Any help would be appreciated

Leave a message, or email at tyguy71@hotmail.com

357896[/snapback]

 

pull the clutch cover off and look closely at the right crank seal. it is very easy to fold the seal in when you push the gear through it. if the seal is folded you will need to pull the gear off and re set it straight.

if not do a leak down test. that will tell everything. good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm....the seal seems to be fine...

I think the rings are just F-ed....i got the head off and clutch cover and shit.......

If the rings are screwed, i''m sure i will have to re-bore it....are there any ways i can get oversized rings???

Help me please :wacko:

Any other ideas????

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rings have nothing to do with trans oil usage, period. The only connection between the crankcase and the trans is the crank seal, it HAS to bad. Unless the case havles are leaking trans oil into the crankcase, seriously very remote.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rings have nothing to do with trans oil usage, period. The only connection between the crankcase and the trans is the crank seal, it HAS to bad. Unless the case havles are leaking trans oil into the crankcase, seriously very remote.

358158[/snapback]

Very true! :clap: What premix ratio did you run on your first tank?? The oil you put in the side case never sees the pistons unless you have a big problem. That oil is to lube and cool the clutch and gears.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rings have nothing to do with trans oil usage, period. The only connection between the crankcase and the trans is the crank seal, it HAS to bad. Unless the case havles are leaking trans oil into the crankcase, seriously very remote.

358158[/snapback]

 

 

Hmmm....i will try the seal... Is it going to be possible for me to remove the seal without splitting the case??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A hi-temp silicone

 

I think i just got in a hurry and stuck the seal on the wrong direction

 

Can anyone find me a pic of which way the seal should be?

358844[/snapback]

Silcone, YUK! :yank: I really, REALLY like Loctite 515 for engine cases. It stays gooey until it's put under pressure, then sets up fairly stiff, like plastic. It's especially designed to seal machined surfaces. The bit of sealer that squishes into the case when the halves are bolted together stays gooey but never dissolves in oil and won't come off to get into the gears; but it's a real plus on 4- strokes with an oil pump pickup. I have seen an awful lot of motors with silicone bits plugging up the pickup screen, lemme tell ya! The real beauty of this stuff is that it stays wet until the cases are tightened, no rush to get it done before it sets.

The crank seal direction is easy. It has one side that is smooth and another that is raised with several notches. The notches face in. I have replaced the seal on the stator side on my bike without splitting cases, but it was a bitch. I ended up drilling two small holes opposite each other into the side of the seal toward the crank. I then ran a sheet metal scew into each hole and walked the seal out by pushing off the side face of the crank by turning the screws in. Putting in the new seal was easy, just smeared it with 515 and drove it in. The 515 set up and locked the seal into place while also filling any marks left from the old seal removal. It was a pain in the butt, but waaayy easier than splitting cases.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...