Advanced timing

[plug9992]

As a machinist, I'm planning to lighten my flywheel and modify my stator plate as suggested on this forum. But I have a question, anybody got overheat problems with a +4 timing? It seems to be OK but I'd prefer to know the consequences before doing it. Next, if I remove 0.30 from my stock head, do I have to modify the squish geometry?

 

Thanks

 

 

 

Banshee 2001

TR6

Boyesen reeds

Reed spacer

Hi-flow twin intake

Durablue filter

NGK racing wire

DID racing chain

Douglas wheels

Razr 2 tires

[sredish]

If you don't have overheating problems at standard timing, you won't at +4 or +7 either.

[compose2]

im a machinist too! i myself milled my stock head .030 and its fine. just bought a stock head gasket and everything clears just fine. i suggest you do the same and when you put it all back together, just kick the kickstarter real slow. if there is a clearance issue, the kickstarter would get stuck from the piston. i also have a adjustable timing plate on my shee and i have no problem at all with overheating. hope this helps

[Wallrat]

I've heard that when you start advancing your timing you can run into heating probs. Most people stick with +4 cuz its a good combination of power vs. reliability. Not sure but milling your head and running +4 advance may be too much to keep running pump gas.

[Ducman]

Just check your squish. You can use a piece of solder and a set of dial calapers to measure your squish clearance. Take a pice of solder and stick it in to the cylinder through the plug hole (Preferably when the piston it on the upstroke and close to the top so you dont chop off the end of the solder into one of your ports) and push the kick start over once. The solder will be squished between the piston and the dome. You want to have a minimum of .028" so your piston doesn't hit your dome with some carbon buildup and heat expansion, .035" is optimum.

 

+4 is plenty on the timing on a stock port motor. Engine ice coolant will help quite a bit to avoid overheating issues.

[FIRST BANSHEE]

my timing is at +4, and my head is milled.025, my squish is at .048. I believe .040 is optium.

awesome mods, you'll love them

[superchicken]

Just check your squish.  You can use a piece of solder and a set of dial calapers to measure your squish clearance.  Take a pice of solder and stick it in to the cylinder through the plug hole (Preferably when the piston it on the upstroke and close to the top so you dont chop off the end of the solder into one of your ports) and push the kick start over once.  The solder will be squished between the piston and the dome.  You want to have a minimum of .028"  so your piston doesn't hit your dome with some carbon buildup and heat expansion, .035" is optimum.

 

 

306583[/snapback]

 

thats a dam good idear!,

[D34]

thats a dam good idear!,

307074[/snapback]

 

 

i keep solder and a digital caliper n my race trailer... most ppl dont even know what "squish" is...

[Lepew]

i keep solder and a digital caliper n my race trailer... most ppl dont even know what "squish" is... 

307109[/snapback]

 

Really what your checking with the solder is the piston to head clearance aren't you? I thought "squish" was to squish the air out of between the head and piston to create turbulance so you don't get detonation with a higher compression ratio. Does the banshee even use the squish theory?