compose2

do i need to remove the o-rings that go around the outside of the bearings of the hot rods 4mm crank assembly?

ups would be tons of power with potential for even more power. the only down side i could see is theres 2 of everthing (cylinders, pipes, carbs) which can make tuning it a little more difficult. no bad though. i personally love mine. i got lots of mods and am constantly looking for more. they are very reliable as long as you take care of them properly and keep up on the maintanence

i was thinking of eventually going to cheetah cubs next year or a monoblock setup anyways

i do have a port and polish job already done to my banshee as well. its got tons of power.i am just looking for more bottom end. i figured a stroker would help out

flip reverse your spark plug wires and see if the problem jumps to the right cylinder. may tell you its an electrical problem

i just ordered my longer rod stroker kit. went with the +4mm. while this is ordered i decided to bore my cylinders from stock to .040 over. i have a bunch of other stuff already such as t5's, vforce reeds, milled head, timing advanced..... all that stuff. my question is, going from stock bore and stock stroke to 4mm longrod stroker with .040 overbore, should i see a huge difference once its all back together? top, mid, or bottom?

Is there any decent places to ride within 3 hours of Cleveland, Ohio? somewhere like trails that would be fun to take the old lady along on the back.

what is the best way to modify the lobes? i work in a machine shop and thought of using a suface grinder with rotary "Grind It" tool. will that work good? i might just have to blend the rest in by hand to get the correct radius. One more thing, how deep to i plunge my carbide for backcutting the neutral lobe. i know .350 from the middle, but i don't wanna get too deep. i've already searched and saw nothing about depth. thanks

do i have to remove the shift cam and forks or can i leave them in. i have no reason to remove them otherwise

Im a cnc machinist. if i could get the dimensions for modifying the shift star, i could easily do it myself. anyone have dimensions on modifying a stock shift star?

is it safe to pressure wash my cases as long as my crank and tranny is removed. i am putting a stroker kit in and want the cases nice and clean for reassembly. is there any other performance mods i could take advantage of since the cases are currently split

anyone have a yakkey shift drum? i saw it on albaaction.com and they say it drastically improves shifting. just wondered if anyone on hq has an opinion

you da man!!! worked like a charm. thanks a ton

Please help. Im in the process of tearing my motor down, but wanted to try adjusting the shifter first. i have the clymer manual and followed everything like it said. i bent the tab on the washer up and then loosened the lock washer. now that all that is done, the adjuster screw should turn, but it won't at all. i don't really know what to do now cuz i don't wanna strip the screw head. Please reply with some advice. thanks

I need to know what size the clutch nut is so I can take the motor to work and impact the nut off. My motor is not at my house so I can't simply go and check. thanks

the inside of my clutch cover is chewed up in a circular path. looks like maybe one of the washers on the clutch plate rubbed when it was engaged. is this a big deal? can i fix it. is it a popular occurance with banshees?

anyone know where i could find performance tranny parts such as shift forks. when i find the problem i don't wanna replace it with stock junk. i want higher quality parts and am willing to pay the extra dollar

I live outside of Cleveland and have heard a lot about wellsville. i heard its like do or die hill climbs. many people i guess have died there in atv accident's. Its supposed to be really crowded though

i called my insurance company they quoted me 250$ a year. does that sound good to you guys? i think thats full coverage. does this mean if it gets stolen, the insurance company will cover retail value or trade-in value?

respond to my post in here. no prob. ok, does the left cylinder plug look burned at all? if it still looks clean, but is wet then it sounds like its not getting any spark. try pulling the plug boots off and switching them around. then start it and see if the problem goes to the other cylinder. if so then you probly have a bad ignition coil

my question to you is, do you have pod filters? i had pod filters and one of them was plugged with mud bad enough to not allow enough air through it. try running your shee without any airfilter just for a minute and see if that cleans it up. make sure its just for a ride up the rode or something. don't go through a mudhole without an airfilter

my shee wouldnt start when it was cold. i've seen alot of posts about that. i just put larger pilot jets in it and it seemed to work. problem solved. now, since i went from a stock #25 pilot jet to a #30 pilot jet, obviously it is running richer. my question is, should i open my air screw a little to accomodate for the larger jet? main jets are great, didn't change them

i've been hearing a lot about using a larger pilot jet if you have trouble starting. my shee has a decent amount of mods including vforce reeds and porting. my shee has trouble starting as well. i know my pilot jet is stock. any suggestions on what size pilot jet to try?

2 strokes are high maintanence bikes. thats been known. 4 strokes are low maintanence but are slower. if you get your shee dialed in right, it'll kill any 4 stroke out there. i just annhiliated a 450 the other week. passed it like he was standing still. stick with 2 strokes just don't been lazy with your maintanence

thanks for all the input guys. it should help me in the future. never saw anything like those flex bars. im definitly gonna get a stabilizer right away