head and timing plate?

[sheeboy94]

Which head and domes are the best for mx? mods in sig. how much difference does it make? also how much difference does a timimg plate make? Would a -2 swingarm help much with traction on banshees? i know they help with handling but just curious.

 

 

thanks

[sheeboy94]

my mods and sig didnt come up how do i do it sorry.....

 

 

thanks

[RNBRAD]

Well in a perfect world you can see a 10% increase in low to mid power with a 10% increase in compression. Pretty much the cheapest mod with the most power gain. If you raise your compression much over 160 then you will need to run race gas. Also advancing the timing will give you better low end power also. The -2 swingarm places your weight more directly over the rear tires giving the rear a weight advantage. This will increase traction and handling. As for measuring the differences, it's more of a seat of the pants feel for most of us but will improve lap times for mxer's.

Edited December 2, 2004 by RNBRAD

[sheeboy94]

thanks dude i do run mx so it would probably work good for me......also since iam bored .30 over do i have to get a special size dome, or do i get one as if my cylinders were'nt bored thanks.

[dlnoss]

Most off-the-shelf domes will work with up to a .080 over bore so they would be fine.

[FIRST BANSHEE]

you can get a ricky stator timing plate w/o the stator. it's $35. +4 degrees you'll love it.

[Sandologist]

you can get a ricky stator timing plate w/o the stator. it's $35. +4 degrees you'll love it.

287771[/snapback]

The RS is the best buy but it is cast and not billet in case you cared.

[sheeboy94]

thanks.......which size domes are best...i want to be able to run pump gas....but still have bad ass power...also which should i run degree key or timing plte?

[RNBRAD]

thanks.......which size domes are best...i want to be able to run pump gas....but still have bad ass power...also which should i run degree key or timing plte?

288050[/snapback]

Whats your elevation? I would go the timing plate.

[Wallrat]

It sounds like your gonna keep your bike fairly tame so instead of a new head you can get your stock head milled down to increase compression. I believe the limit before you run into squish problems is .030. Advancing the timing +4 and increasing the compression may be too much for pump gas.

[FIRST BANSHEE]

It sounds like your gonna keep your bike fairly tame so instead of a new head you can get your stock head milled down to increase compression.  I believe the limit before you run into squish problems is .030.  Advancing the timing +4 and increasing the compression may be too much for pump gas.

288352[/snapback]

I milled mine .025 and run + 4 degrees on 93 octane

[Ducman]

Like FIRST BANSHEE has, mill head 25 thou, + 3 or 4 on the timing and lighten flywheel are all best bang for your buck. I know all the -2 swingarm guys swear by them, but I really don't see how they keep the front end down in any kind of terain with decent traction especially once you do some mods to get a few more ponies going to the rear wheels. Get the timing plate, I've heard many stories of aftermarket degree keys getting cracked/broken and comming out which will completely throw off the timing and possibly cause detonation if it goes in the timing advance direction = new top end. Supposedly if you torque down the flywheel good and tight with an impact wrench it shouldn't happen though.

 

If you do get a cool head definitly go with a NOSS head. Customer service is top notch!

[PassionRE]

Ricky Stator plate is hard to beat for the money and is a much better option that a degreed key. NOSS head is best by far IMO and his special cut series domes are a very good MX dome for a good power spread. Ive run the specs on those domes and they are well suited for a variety of porting styles...Jim

[ledofthezep]

Ricky Stator plate is hard to beat for the money and is a much better option that a degreed key.

That's what I'm running, along with the stock wattage stator. Very good mod. I do have a couple stock plates if anyone wants them to mod, PM me.

 

 

 

I know all the -2 swingarm guys swear by them, but I really don't see how they keep the front end down in any kind of terain with decent traction especially once you do some mods to get a few more ponies going to the rear wheels.

You just have to try it man... Traction & handling, along with a +2+1 front end is night/day. Keeping the front end down really isn't a problem, just like before I can pull it up whenever I want to, but it's more manageable in a wheelie, if that makes sense. When airborne, the quad is much more easy to handle & keep control of. Hell I'm primarily a duner & I love the shit out of my -2.

Edited December 9, 2004 by ledofthezep

[ClimbAnyHill]

The RS is the best buy but it is cast and not billet in case you cared.

Is there a difference between the Ricky Stator & let's say the Pro design timing plate other than one being cast metal & the other being billet? Oh, & the price! Someone is offering me the RS for $25 so think I'm going to grab that. Any reason why I should go with the PD billet one?