SouthernBanshee Posted May 19, 2004 Report Posted May 19, 2004 if you dont want to modify your stock stator plate for free, get the ricky stator's. Its the same but its not shiny like the pro design Quote
rebelbanshee2 Posted May 19, 2004 Report Posted May 19, 2004 deffinatly the ricky stator...there is no need for a billet timing plate that is behind a stator, flywheel, and cover Quote
98bonerSTOCKshee Posted May 22, 2004 Report Posted May 22, 2004 if you dont want to modify your stock stator plate for free, get the ricky stator's. what you mean by that? you got some splainen to do! Quote
BdBanshee Posted May 22, 2004 Report Posted May 22, 2004 I think he means you can modify your stock one like this: Quote
jeepman380 Posted May 22, 2004 Report Posted May 22, 2004 Yeah get the Ricky Stator one. It's alot cheaper, works the same, and it's not like you will be able to see it anyway so it doesn't matter it's is purty or not. Quote
cdcoxwell Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 Why even spend the $35. Ron's picture says it all. I'm sure if you were to PM him he could tell you what a degree equals to milimeter. I think someone posted on here that 2mm= 1 degree, I think, but don't quote me. Ask Ron. If I had know about this DO IT YOURSELF MOD, I would not have spent the money on an adjustable. BTW, I too have a RS. Quote
Cotton eyed Joe Posted May 23, 2004 Report Posted May 23, 2004 Why even spend the $35. Ron's picture says it all. I'm sure if you were to PM him he could tell you what a degree equals to milimeter. I think someone posted on here that 2mm= 1 degree, I think, but don't quote me. Ask Ron. If I had know about this DO IT YOURSELF MOD, I would not have spent the money on an adjustable. BTW, I too have a RS. To figure that out, you need to now the diameter of the bolt hole circle. Once you know that, divide it by 360. That number you now have, is the distance equal to one degree. The only disadvantage to slotting your own (mine is slotted) is if you go to far, the end can crack when you tighten down on it. The advantage to an aftermarket one, and this is what I plan on doing when I start making them here shortly, is not move the whole damned plate to adjust your timing, but move just the pick up. That way you don't need to take off your fly wheel, or anything, just move the pick up, set your gap, tighten them down. Quote
nater006 Posted May 24, 2004 Report Posted May 24, 2004 (edited) I'm pretty sure its about 1mm to a degree though I may be wrong.. if you look at the pics on Ricky Stator's site you can get an approximate idea of size, etc. I got the RS plate. Didn't have a dremel or drill press at the time to modify my stocker. But, either way will do you fine. The RS plate is nice because it's clearly marked all the way from -10 degrees to +10 degrees. Fits real snug... nothing about 60 seconds with a fine file couldn't take care of! Edited May 24, 2004 by nater006 Quote
Justintoxicated Posted May 24, 2004 Report Posted May 24, 2004 get the ricky stator because rich is a great guy to deal with Quote
cam2 Posted May 24, 2004 Report Posted May 24, 2004 thanks guys. i ordered the RS on friday. i don't think that $35 was too bad. i like the idea that it's marked. stan, that's a good idea to be able to move the pick up especially if you're adjusting your timing a lot due to different conditions, definitaly convient. Trinity racing's plate is like that (pro design isn't) but that option wasn't worth $100 in my opinion, i'll set it for +4 and maybe mess with it a little to see if a degree or two makes a difference. i have a +4 degree key on now but i plan on doing some motor work this summer so i don't want to chance sheering it off with the extra HP. Quote
J..J. Posted May 25, 2004 Report Posted May 25, 2004 The advantage to an aftermarket one, and this is what I plan on doing when I start making them here shortly, is not move the whole damned plate to adjust your timing, but move just the pick up. Brilliant! Quote
J..J. Posted May 25, 2004 Report Posted May 25, 2004 1mm = 1 degree Maybe... The segment of a circle (the straight line intersecting the arc of a circle at angle a) is calculated as follows: Where: s = the straight line distance a = the included angle D = the PCD (diameter of the bolt hole circle) s = D x sin a/2 Don't know the PCD as I'm nowhere close to my bike, but once you have it, just substitute into the above equation. You can either substitute "a" as one degree or as 4 degrees to get straight to the desired measurement. Quote
SouthernBanshee Posted May 26, 2004 Author Report Posted May 26, 2004 i use this. Correct me if im wrong... circle circumference 2 x PI x r so PI=3.1415 r=60 (60mm from the center of the stator plate to the center of the bolts hole) 2 x 3.1415 x 60 = 376.98 376.98/360 = 1.047 (360 degrees of the circle) 1.047mm = 1 degree Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.