cdcoxwell

I'm building one right now from the ground up for my nephew, tired of riding by myself. I personlly prefer to start from frame-up. I don't want to buy something and then take her apart. Cheap banshee's that I've seen around here are still going for $2500 + and most of those are as old as an '87 like mine. Being able to purchase almost 99% of the parts on ebay make things very convienant, I've believe we can build her for around $1500 basically stock. Once we have her ridable, then he can upgrade parts as he can afford it. He has $350 in parts now such as the axle, wiring harness w/cdi and coil, gas tank, front and rear shocks swingarm and a couple of other small items I can't remember. He's about to get the frame off of ebay for around $275 with shipping. And doing it this way once he has all of the frame parts we are going to have'em powdercoated. Time flies, gotta go take my boy to T-BALL. I will check back later to see if you post any questions.

BTW, as you can see on my avatar, Jason Veritek is beating the out of A-Rod. Did anyone see that GRANDSLAM he hit tonight for team USA

From the beginning, Booneman has always helped when I needed. I would like to give a very warm and special thx to BOONE. Well, not too warm Cary

wallrat, when you say better flow are we talking about coolant or crank oil flowing better

Thx people, keep'em coming

Am I the only one that thinks this frame is stolen . It sure is sneaky how the vin# is no longer there. Can you just transfer perfectly ingraved #'s??? I wonder if a grinder had anything to do with it. I may be wrong but what do you guys think??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-YAMAHA...sspagenameZWDVW

How do you move a thread. This topic should have been in banshee repairs and mods.

While I have the bottom cracked open are there any suggestions I should do while I've got her heart open. Other than going ahead and replacing both seals and gaskets.

First, buy a CLYMER for around $25. The best investment you can have. It's quite simple just Remove heat sheild. Remove front hose clamp. Then remove the 3 springs holding the exhaust chamber to the motor. Spring tool is $3.99 and OEM Service manuel for $60 @ Rockymountainatv.com That should do it.

I know how you feel. I'm going through the same thing now. I just posted the same question and then saw your thread. I can put my hand behind the right pipe and rev her up and my hand turns almost completely black. Left side barely spits fuel, so little that the color on a rag appears grey. You keep me posted and I will keep you posted if I find out something. The dealership is really going to charge you an arm and a leg. At first, these banshee's can seem quite intimidating, but with the CLYMER and OEM service manual it's easier than you think.

I see there's another post just like mine. I will check it out. If you think mine is any different, let me know.

I put my hand over the right exhaust checking pressure and hand turned black w/fuel or something when reved up. Left side seems good, very little. Reason behind this, I just put her back together. T5's, V-force 3 and bored .010. I've got fuel, spark and compression. 280 main, clip on #4 and air turned out 1.5 turns just how toomey said to. Thanks guys, can't wait to see what ya'll think.

Thanks guys, close enough for me.

I almost jumped out of my skin

If the male/female ends are the same, it should. But, I dout that they are because that would make life to easy for us. I believe all cdi's will work, you just have to splice the ends and swap the male/female ends. I have an '87 as well. I bought a 2000 dimmer/on-off switch. Cut the end off of the '87 dimmer and cut the end off the 2000 and taped the '87 connector on the 2000 and shee works like a charm. Maybe someone who has spliced a cdi box can tell you 100% for a fact, it can be done. I heard that you could.

Anyone knows how much shee frames weighs . Trying to get a quote on shipping. thx thx thx

My bad, I thought I was in jetting and exhaust forum. Where do I pay my fine

I installed the t5's, the 280main and the toomey needle on the 4th clip just like they say to do. Haven't taken her out yet. But, when I cranked her and put my hand behind the left pipe to see how much pressure (just had her bored .010) is being forced out, my hand turned black as soon as I reved her up. The right pipe spit some but not enough to worry about. I have good compression and spark. Any ideas Is there anybody out there??? Just knod if you can hear me. Is there anyone at home.

Anyone know the weight of the frame? Trying to get a quote on shipping and the weight is nowhere to be found in CLYMER. THX

I hope your son get's well soon. Thx for the responce. Cary

PMed you 2 or 3 days ago. Haven't heard anything. Still wondering if shee is for sale.

can accum. alot OVER TIME.

An '87 shee can accum. alot of grease and dirt. Trying to get the engine half way back to looking descent. What have ya'll had the best results on shining the shee. thx

There's too many goodies I could buy to increase HP for $350. I just installed T5's, V-Force 3 and bored .010 (mainly for cleanup, "87). I will go ahead and just install the needle(on the 4th clip) and 270 mains and the air screw 1.5 turns out. I purchased the set fromToomey and James suggested that I use the 270 main due to the constant HOT weather in the southeast. I jujst thought it would be worth a $100 give or take to have her fine tuned exactly correct on the dyno but not for $350. Thx for the detailed info Ducman, I'm going to run the info and the prices buy'em and see what comes up. thx thx thx

for fine tuning and the price is $350 to dyno it and fine tune it. I'm thinking i will play with her for a while first. If shee still gives me trouble then I will do it. Thx for the imput. '