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Posted

Hey guys,

My buddies bike won't start. He was shooting the hill at Gordons Well, running good. Went to the bottom, HE shut the bike off.

Then when he went to start it again, nothing.

Plenty of fuel.

No spark, took plugs out, tested at night, nothing.

I ohmed out the on/off switch on the bar, good.

He has no TORS, been disconnected.

Emergency brake works fine.

I ohmed the coil, primary is .9, secondary shows nothing. Clymers says it should give around 5000ohms on the secondary.

The ignition switch acts funny. Shows 0 ohms whether it is on or off.

When you are kicking it over, you can see the lights come on just a little, so I figured the stator was ok. It does have some rust, but it always has looked like that.

 

Right now I am guessing the coil. I am going to ohm mine out and see what it reads.

 

If my coil acts like his, it is not the coil since mine runs fine.

 

I guess we can start swapping parts, but I wanted some input first.

Thanks

Posted

Don't the lights run off of a different coil than the stator that supplies the plugs? I've never been into a Banshee, but on a Blaster there are two coils (I think..hell its been 12 years since I tore apart a Blaster).

Posted

Update,

Both his coil and mine test the same.

Both his ignition switch and mine test the same.

So, I think I have ruled out the coil, ignition switch, on/off switch,

Posted

da Shee does have two sides to the stator. One for lights and one for fire. You need to OHM your stator as well as the coil. If that checks well here is what I would do.

1) Trade coils ( they can OHM good and still not work.)

2) Disconnect the key switch and jump across the plug in.

3) Disconnect the park brake safty switch

4) Check the pickup coil gap on your stator.

5) Get that rust out off of there.

6) Check the plugins right beside your airbox. I have had trouble there.

7) Replace the CDI (which I think is your problem anyway, but check everything else first.

Posted

For the coil, I tested just like Clymers says to.

To check the primary, you put the negative from the meter to the black on the coil, put the positive on the meter to the orange on the coil.

For the secondary, you put the black on the negative of the coil and put the red on one of the high tension wires(plug wires) coming out of the coil.

Posted

I agree with Blacksmith, sounds like the CDI is likely but I'd check everything else to be sure...

 

Specifically, the way you said it wouldn't start again after HE turned it off, I would make double sure the kill switch and the black/white wire are OK; if the black/white wire is touching the frame anywhere it won't fire (the switch just grounds that wire to tell the CDI not to fire). You might also take the switch itself apart and check it out. You can bypass the key switch with a jumper between black and black/red at the connector (it works opposite of the handlebar kill switch; open circuit is "on").

 

When my CDI went out I was ridin' fine and all of a sudden it died, not kinda running just died like someone hit the kill switch, never fired again. When my stator went out, it started missing for a minute then alltogether quit also, never would fire up. One other thing I ran into was one the orange wire fallin' off the coil, same symptoms and net result but all it took was crimping the spade terminal a little tighter.

 

Good luck, hope you find it, and BTW you can try your CDI on his even if the connectors are different by just taking the terminals out of the connectors, if you need help there lemme know.

Posted

As a side note, what do you guys think about a Banshee Electrical FAQ? Might be my next project at work (I got plenty to do at home with the RZ), in between wallpapers...

Posted

Thanks guys.

I agree, I think it is the CDI.

Can you replace this with an aftermarket unit that provides more spark and is a little cheaper?

 

BenBB, I think a Electrical FAQ would be great.

Posted

Linc,

 

Same thing happen'd with Shell's old bike. CDI took a dump...wouldn't do crapola. I put a used one in it and it worked great. Might check out good ol'ebay.

 

I wish I could have been there with ya guys. Still working on my bike...in between work around the house :(

 

T :ph34r:

Posted

Lincster, when my CDI went out I got a Dyna FS (adjustable not programmable) for like $240 versus OEM from local dealer $318. But I think all Dyna sells now is the programmable units for $345 or so, you might check www.dynaonline.com or www.pro-flo.com and see (the latter is where I bought mine). Good luck.

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