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Posted

Well have stock now. Motor is a 4mil with jeffs play/dune port on pump gas. 1st-4th are pretty much useless unless im sitting on the tank to keep front end down

Posted

It really sucks when you stretch the bike and it wont hook for crap and handles worse. It also takes up more space in the shed and truck bed which I also didn't care for.

 

So are you going to spend $900+ on a fireball arm the same length as stock just for looks?

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Posted

I did a frame up build this winter, seems silly to skip the swing arm after putting all this money into it. Plus the round carrior is a huge upgrade. And yes they do look better

Posted

-1 swingarm here too, 4mil on race gas. If you are wheeling excessively it could be down to suspension setup too. Most guys seem to be running their banshee's with the shocks maximum extended. Run some sag and get your suspension setup right and you'll have a lot more planted front end.

Posted
It really sucks when you stretch the bike and it wont hook for crap and handles worse. It also takes up more space in the shed and truck bed which I also didn't care for.
 
So are you going to spend $900+ on a fireball arm the same length as stock just for looks?
Easier to setup, round carrier....

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Posted
12 hours ago, ClaudeMachining said:

Easier to setup, round carrier....

While i agree, i dont feel it's worth it for that. It's not like it needs to be done in the middle or before a ride all the time.

1 hour ago, DDQ said:

Another consideration is will the tires you run. Will they clear your nerf bars with a -2.

Im glad this was brought up. This is a very important point. I forget about this because I grinded my damn heal guard mounts off.

Posted
2 hours ago, DDQ said:

This statement seems like a gross exaggeration for the mild motor you have.
I agree with everyone that stock length should be the longest arm you even consider. Another consideration is will the tires you run. Will they clear your nerf bars with a -2.

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Well obviously i made the problem seem bigger than it really is but not grossly.. 

Posted

I could tinker with my suspension some more. To see if that helps, currently have the rear set up with about 1.5-2in sag with rider weight

Posted
54 minutes ago, RagunCajun said:

While i agree, i dont feel it's worth it for that. It's not like it needs to be done in the middle or before a ride all the time.

Im glad this was brought up. This is a very important point. I forget about this because I grinded my damn heal guard mounts off.

Ive had mine loosen while on a ride

Posted
47 minutes ago, caleb90 said:

I could tinker with my suspension some more. To see if that helps, currently have the rear set up with about 1.5-2in sag with rider weight

I'm just going to ramble on here. So lets say your suspension is fine but you want to keep the front down. The typical solution is to get a longer swing arm. Then the reason the front will stay down will probably be because now the rear tires are spinning. Since they are spinning, you arent putting all that power down accelerating as quickly as you could. Then you have to figure out the perfect balance between swing arm length, tires, tire pressure, lock up clutch pressure (if you have one) and the list goes on. And all that changes for each terrain. For those reasons, I went back to a stock length from a +6. It would be very expensive and time consuming to play with all lengths of swing arms, sprocket combos, tire types etc to see what works. I'm just thinking out loud.

Posted

I guess.. just always thought minus 2 was for the mx crowd. Plus 2 being the best of both worlds for stability and handling... Prob the route cause of my wheelying issue is the slp pipes. 😉

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