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First Banshee Help


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Currently on my way to go pick my first banshee as kind of an 18th birthday present to myself and just thought I'd ask you guys for some tips on what I should do when I get it home. I've been watching this forum for that past couple of months and can definitely tell that there is a ton of people on here with a ton of great knowledge so Im all ears. I don't plan on doing a build right away cause the funds are pretty low but I also don't want to just jump on it and tear the shit out of it right off the bat. I have a pretty good mechanical background I work as a service tech at a local auto shop and just got done building my ski doo rev 800 into a beast so I'm more than capable of working on it but like I said early I don't know much about these things beside what I've been reading on here. So I'm going to pick up a 97 banshee that comes with a second frame that also has a title and some other miscellaneous parts like wheels and tires. I'm paying 2300 for everything which I feel is a pretty fair price for a good running stock bike and all the extras that come with it. What do you guys think?

Here's some picks he sent me. I'll be sure to put some more up when I get it home and tell you guys more about it but for now this is about as much as I know.

Thanks for the help in advanced! b04265ba73c22ec61229934db01f5597.jpga094e29a3aea77ace6bcd23f6024f6bc.jpg1680820ae616d9db65de2a5a5485b3ca.jpgcd7ff36ee1db2c6f3a9d00bf99ba2d51.jpg062e17384920be9efc69b883f3c56322.jpg4310afbc55ac74bade835cd78bf472c9.jpg

 

 

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Just left with it so wasn't able to ask him about the trans fluid and premix ratio but from what he said it sounds like he ran 91 octane mixed with Amsoil Dominator. Should I run Amsoil in it because I run that in my sleds and have never had an issue with it plus I can pick some up right down the street from house.

 

 

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It's an endless debate on what oil to run, regardless of what you run, drain fuel and trans oil and replace with new, wouldnt hurt to go through carbs and clean real good and record your get sizes. Replace spark plugs, clean air filter, grease all zerks on front and rear. Compression test and leak down for shits and grins if you have the equipment.

Go over wiring, some people dont know how to secure wiring where it wont get melted or rubbed.

 

Oh and welcome to the addiction lol

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I've recently made the switch to dominator as well from interceptor. Haven't tried it yet but we'll see. From what I've read on here is that if your going to go against the oils recommendation of 50:1, then you have to jet accordingly for a thicker ratio. In your case 32:1

 

I'm not sure how it works exactly. I'm always learning, but that's what I've heard. Apparently it causes a lean condition if not jetted correctly with your premix.

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Been a few days since I posted but figured I'd let you guys know what I found and see if anyone can help. It seems likes it bogs really bad in the lower gears and I can never really get it to 4th gear with out losing speed unless I'm really hauling when off road. on the street it shifts through all the gears fine and is a little less hesitant but the bog is still there. I put new plugs and wires in cause the old ones where shot but didn't make much of a difference. I also cleaned up the wiring harness because they did a tors and ignition delete but left all the tors connectors half cut off and dangling. It also seems to roll when you engage the clutch and rev it. It has a Magyar hydraulic clutch that is leaking so I bought a rebuild kit for that and hope that stops that issue. And finally it doesn't shift very good. It's hard to shift in to second and it's literally impossible to shift it in to neutral when it's running. I haven't change the trans fluid yet so could it be that the fluid is way past due and just needs to be changed? Sorry for all the questions.1f0d8fe6b586dfe22c0ef6629f0d0b3e.jpg

 

Also checked the compressions and it was 100 on both cylinders but that was with a crappy gauge that I know is off a little

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Edited by jakerusso45
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Never got a chance to do a leak down this weekend but will do one on Saturday. That makes me feel better about the neutral thing so thanks for clearing that up.

 

Modded shift start will make it 100x easier to shift and find nuetral. Clutch adjustment has a lot to do with neutral being hard to find also, and you said it wants to move with the clutch in when running. Probably needs clutch adjusted some. A properly adjusted clutch and modded star makes for nice smooth shifts

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Modded shift start will make it 100x easier to shift and find nuetral. Clutch adjustment has a lot to do with neutral being hard to find also, and you said it wants to move with the clutch in when running. Probably needs clutch adjusted some. A properly adjusted clutch and modded star makes for nice smooth shifts

Cool I'll adjust it this weekend when I change the fluid. I'll defiantly look into the shift star mod too. I'm sure I can find a video on YouTube on how to do it.

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1f0d8fe6b586dfe22c0ef6629f0d0b3e.jpg

Get another gauge or borrow 1 from a friend to see how far yours is off. Then again your friends gauge could be off :D

I just saw that your post had writing on it be cause the font is white. I thought it was just a smiling face emoji lol. I'm gonna ride it to work sometime next week so I'll use the snap on gauge there and see how far off it is
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Cool I'll adjust it this weekend when I change the fluid. I'll defiantly look into the shift star mod too. I'm sure I can find a video on YouTube on how to do it.

 

If you go by Clymer's, it will tell you to align your clutch actuator up with notch on cases, that don't mean shit honestly. It's more a reference point, I've lined them dead even and still had the clutch dragging when it was pulled, most time the actuator will be to the right of the arrow (as your sitting on bike). But I have zero clues on the hydraulic set-up, I assume the pressure plate adjustment is gonna be the same as a standard cable 

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