jakerusso45

Ok I'll give that a try tonight or tomorrow morning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do I tell if it's leaking? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright I'll order a couple of oem float valves and give it a shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cool I'll pull the carbs apart later this afternoon. I'm starting to think that kit is junk too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just as confused. Both carbs act the same way so that's why I thinking it's connected to the stator being screwed up but is there anyway I can see if the floats are still good? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes several times and it's in spec each time Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slides are in the correct carbs, yes both carbs leak, and I used a shindy kit Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm wondering if it's not creating a large enough spark at low RPM's which is causing the carbs to flood out. I noticed when checking for spark when I kicked it normally I would only get a somewhat weak spark and when I kicked it very aggressively I would get a nice strong blue spark. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I changed the whole seat and o ring and checked my reeds that were in pretty good shape. No gaps in the paddles. I did pull the fly wheel just to see and I found that I broke my woodruff key in half when reinstalling the flywheel. So one half was still holding the flywheel in place while the other bounced around my stator which I'm assuming destroyed it and is the reason for these low end problems. I'll post a pic of the stator later when I get home tonight. Could a stator cause these issues? I'm just assuming because it's the first thing I've actually found wrong beside the compression being down. Pic of the key Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have not yet but I will if I get a chance today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When I let off the throttle and don't get back on the gas right away it bogs out and dies. It then leaks gas out of the over flow tubes and is impossible to start unless I push start it. This is why I'm pretty sure it's flooding itself out and yes the plugs are soaked. I haven't seen fuel over filling the carbs because it only happens for that split second when the bike dies out and I'm assuming while I decelerate after putting a decent load on the motor. It never does it while it's idling only when you put a load on the motor. I completely rebuilt the carbs with a shindy kit so the needles and seats are already brand new Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright I'm really starting to get frustrated with this thing. I tried bumping my needles up to the second positions from the top just to see and nothing changed. I also checked compression to start ruling out the basics and I had 105 in both cylinders so that was good. It has a pretty strong spark as well. I don't think my timing plate could be causing this but what do you guys think? It never did this before but I don't see how advancing my timing +4 would cause my carbs to flood out. If you guys are curtain it's a float issue I'll bite the bullet and spend the $50 on new ones but I'd like to rule out a couple more things first. Thanks again guys I'd probably have given up and started saving up for new carbs by now if I was going at this alone Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I checked the the float height again while I have them apart and it's right around 21mm. The caliper is set at 22mm I did have the carbs sitting apart under a shop towel for about 2 months. Could the floats have gotten moisture in them because of that. The needle doesn't seem to be getting hung up and it's also brand new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just did and the cutouts on the slides are facing the filters Could it have anything to do with my needle position? It only seems to leak fuel out of the overflow tubes after the motors been under load. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm around 500' as well so I'll give those jets a try. I did put in a 290 main last night and the bike did the same thing. Started somewhat easily idled a little high so I backed down a little with the idle screws and then took it for a ride. It bogged right when I let off the clutch but picked itself back up when I got on it. I did a lap behind my house and when I started slowing down it sounded like the bike completely cut out and when I gave it gas nothing unless I held it pinned so it couldn't idle down. I limped it back to the garage and when it finally died out it was leaking gas out of the over flow tubes. I have no idea what is causing this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok that's what I was thinking. I tried a 25 pilot when I went on lunch today because it's the only other size I have on hand (I would have switch the main too but I didn't see your post until now) and after about one pass it flooded out the carbs again. So basically what's happening since my main is too large that when decelerating it has already pumped way to much fuel into the carbs making it flood out when I'm not on the throttle? I'll switch the main out for a 290 when I get off of work today and go from there. Thanks for the advice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I recently rebuilt the carbs on my banshee and I'm having some issues getting them adjusted correctly. I installed a Vito's jet kit with their red racing needles while I was in there as well. I'm starting with the biggest jet that came in the kit like they recommended which was 340 mains and 30 pilots with the needle set on the 3rd position. The motor is completely stock the only mods I have are +4 advanced timing, k&n pods with outer wears, and DG pipes (I know their not the best exhaust but they came on the bike and I don't have enough money to buy a different set right now). I have the air screws set at 2 turns out and the carbs are synced up and installed correctly. The issue that I run into is once the bike is warmed up it seems to idle nicely and then will just shut off and if I try to ride it the top end is perfect when when I slow down and stop the carbs load up with fuel and floods out. I checked my float height before putting it back together and it seemed to be in spec and it never did this before I took it apart. Is my pilot too big? I figured before I changed anything I would get your guys opinion.

From what I can tell it seems like a really nice clutch. I don't know if I mentioned earlier but I had to rebuild it because it was leaking real bad but now that that's fixed its dry as a bone and moves real smooth. Haven't been able to try it out yet now that it's fixed though.

I haven't really got to try it yet but if it's really bad I'll just go back to a cable Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So when you guys say you adjust it so it has some slack to you mean that you have the lever go pass the arrow on the clutch side or the stator side?

Sweet thanks for the help!

I pulled the side cover off to adjust the clutch and put a new basket in when I notice that there was some play in one of the gears. https://vimeo.com/163561618 Is this normal? I took the gear out and the shaft it sits in has a little play but it seems like most of it is coming from that hear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep both notches are lined up exactly and it stills drags. As far as the hydraulic setup goes it's the same as the cable but instead of a cable there's a hydraulic line like a brake line that connects to a little cylinder that pulls in and out. This is the one I have

I just saw that your post had writing on it be cause the font is white. I thought it was just a smiling face emoji lol. I'm gonna ride it to work sometime next week so I'll use the snap on gauge there and see how far off it is

Cool I'll adjust it this weekend when I change the fluid. I'll defiantly look into the shift star mod too. I'm sure I can find a video on YouTube on how to do it.