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Won't shift under load


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Short story....

97shee that wiped out a crank.

Hotrod 4mm stroker+ ported cylinders to match with the basic rebuild.

While I was in there I got the FAST Racing clutch pack/springs, modded shift star, modified shift shaft/spring, clutch perch, clutch cable, recommended trans oil, and other basics while in there. 

Set the clutch rod slightly outboard of the mark on the crankcase per FAST. I bought everything exactly how they told me, because I knew they had good experience on banshees and I wanted a one time quality build. 

 

Never had shift problems prior to rebuild. Now only if I let RPM's drop between the first three gears will it shift(basically the same way I used to shift with no clutch prior to rebuild). 5th and 6th it just will not do even rolling down backside of a dune with no load. With the engine off, it will run through the gears just fine as I roll it, so I know its not a shift fork or hard part. It really just feels like the clutch is staying engaged

 

I found no concerns with the "clutch rod" that passes through the motor. No issues with the "pivot Rod" that attaches the cable to the "clutch rod" and no issues with the ball on the end of the "clutch rod". The basket had minor wear where the clutch plates ride, so that is the only clutch part I did not replace.

 

Does anybody have any ideas if I did something wrong, missed something, need to "upgrade" another part to match the other "non-oem" parts I installed?

I have been tinkering for a year with no ideas, and the guys at FAST are trying to help, but its just to the point where they need the bike to diagnose anymore than they already have, but they are several states away so that is not an option. 

 

Thanks for any input you all have

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This is the reason for cut trannies, but a grooved basket or hubs can cause similar issues as well as eccentric screw not positioned correctly or worn . How is the eccentric screw, shift shaft spring mating surface if they are notched you won't get positive feed back on the shift lever. Another issue I've seen is rider error, where the rider is no letting off the shifter far enouph and the detention arm doesn't have a chance to ratchet to next gear

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What does a cut tranny do for me?


Eccentric screw, you mean the one in the center of the clutch basket that pushes on the ball?


Rider error part, Certainly can be an issue. would putting the stock shift shaft back in help fix this issue? I have tried pulling up on the shifter until it phsyically stops while riding, thinking make the modified shift shaft required a longer pull to engage the next gear.


 


Thank you for your thoughts


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At what point/ or hp will a stock transmission have this issue?

In my experience, they can be ok till about 60-65 HP with bolt on mods like the shift star, roller on detent arm, modded shift shaft, etc. Just about any 4mil that runs worth a damn should have even a basic trans cut.
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Cut trans are not always the answer. Do they help,? Yes. But imo, Most of the time other issues are going on to cause shifting issues. Ive had multiple motors between 60-90hp. All shifted great on stock trans. Make sure eccentric screw is adjusted properly and all other components are in good shape. I actually think the biggest factor in poor shifting is simply shifter position...

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