banshee4mil Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 or you guys could go to bungking and get them for about 3.00 each and weld them in Quote
Green95LX Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 Hold the presses, i found an error. On the two rear inserts, go ahead and extended that ,.375 step out to .500. I dropped my inserts in today and that step isn't long enough. Quote
banshee4mil Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Hold the presses, i found an error. On the two rear inserts, go ahead and extended that ,.375 step out to .500. I dropped my inserts in today and that step isn't long enough. the rears are hollow all the way through, i already did this with mine thats how i know just go deep enough for the bolt if you can weld it will hold just put a full bead around the whole bung, dont get the frame to hot or cool to quickly, dont quench them after welding Quote
sheerider11 Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 Hold the presses, i found an error. On the two rear inserts, go ahead and extended that ,.375 step out to .500. I dropped my inserts in today and that step isn't long enough. I'm no draftsman, thats for sure. These should help some, if not ill do my best to explain. The first two are the front mounts The third one is the rear and they are the same both sides The only critical diameter is the 1.040 step and that is so it will fit inside the tubing back there, I picked .375 out of thin air along with the .800 diameter and it's .625 length. Quote
87sheerips Posted November 23, 2014 Report Posted November 23, 2014 I can make sets of these if interested let me know. Quote
Green95LX Posted November 23, 2014 Author Report Posted November 23, 2014 Sorry, i believe i jumped the gun. Once everything was ground down flush, they fit correctly. Like i said though, there's some dimensions that arent exactly critical Quote
rjayb Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 Great thread! I ripped a foot peg out about 4 years ago landing a jump and this would have been such a time saver. Quote
Green95LX Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Posted November 24, 2014 the rears are hollow all the way through, i already did this with mine thats how i know just go deep enough for the bolt if you can weld it will hold just put a full bead around the whole bung, dont get the frame to hot or cool to quickly, dont quench them after welding Yes, the 1.040 dia step was mainly to locate and center it up. Quote
banshee4mil Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 Yes, the 1.040 dia step was mainly to locate and center it up. oh ok , mine had 1 in i the front, so i used a foot peg, and tacked the rear in in place , i didnt use lips on mine i slid them in had some sticking out like factory and put a bead all the way around, just trying to help other riders its way easier to buy them from bung king from machine working point , saved time and energy hope everyone is kool with that Quote
trickedcarbine Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 JD, hurry up. Need some ASAP. Quote
Green95LX Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Posted November 24, 2014 oh ok , mine had 1 in i the front, so i used a foot peg, and tacked the rear in in place , i didnt use lips on mine i slid them in had some sticking out like factory and put a bead all the way around, just trying to help other riders its way easier to buy them from bung king from machine working point , saved time and energy hope everyone is kool with that To each their own, whatever works i cant take away from that. I spent under 5$ for the material and got paid while i made them. Quote
Nightmare Posted November 24, 2014 Report Posted November 24, 2014 What's a 95 LX?Sounds like a base model mustang. Quote
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