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Alcohol plug read help

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See that's one if the biggest problem I have with this motor, I bought it from a Bhq member. So I'm going only on his word that it is said to be ported by k&t, domes cut by Titan, they were new, along with the head, a gas head also came with it. An old style cheetah head, domes are not interchangeable in the old head. The head on now is new style with domes and was brand new.

I tore the motor down split the cases inspected everything. Put it back together. Motor was bought, no electronics, no carbs, just intakes, with reeds.

This winter I will send cyl. To k&t and have them see if it is In fact ported by them, and do anything that can be done if in fact it was not.

The cyl. We're also freshly powder coated so no markings could be seen from who ever ported it, if it was even marked.

Just a little history on it.

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I have ran dynatek for years. No problem. Leave it on the stock setting and your plate a 6 degrees. On stock setting it will advice your timing 2 degrees. My 535 love +8 timing.

Absolutely no doubt a dynatek will work and could work for this guy.  However, as said...some of the fastest bikes on the planet use the stock ignition.

I still say get it tuned in with the oil/fuel mixture you intend to use with a stock ignition setup...so you have a baseline.

Then work on ignition and fuel air...


If you're not going to use the advanced features of a Dyna CDI, such as custom programmable curves, stutter, Tachometer...I'm not sure why you'd buy a Dyna in the first place.

It certainly is no more reliable than a stock CDI...


You could put a boost bottle on your ride for years and not have a problem.  Doesn't mean it helped anything...either.

I'm going to assume the OP is new to alky and this type of motor.  Keep it simple...and learn from other's mistakes....best advice I could give.

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Yes I am new to methanol, and this actually is my first big motor!! Lol. You would be surprised, my last motor was a stock stroke, stock bore, ported by "rockets" in Quebec Canada. A guy named Dan? Motor was ported when I got it.

So from that to this k&t drag ported 535 cheetah on meth!! Love it!! No wonder it felt so powerfull the first time I felt it hit the pipe eh guys? Probably close to 3 times the hp as my last motor and it's not even tuned fully yet.

On a serious note I appreciate everyone's opinion, I always take it into account when making my own decision. But I do still end up making up my own mind, and do what I believe is best.

Also I'm not no big time racer, shit so far I have only found 3 races in the hole riding season!!! And I missed the first one cause I didn't put my bike together in time. 2nd one is this month 25,26,27. That will be my first race.

So it is vital I get this thing tuned before then and running fast.

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i love the dyna's on my bikes..


the bigget issues i have seen with the so called "failures" was the wrong plugs..  your running resistor plugs and most likely resistor caps.  thats great for a dyna  its a much more advanced digital ignition and any outside interference will cause them to skip and mess up..  running a b8es style plug is a guarantee fucked up ignition.  maybe not right away  but eventually the feedback noise will confuse them enough they will screw up.   also shitty wiring has toasted a few also.   there are a ton of "OOPS my ( insert random ground failure here) fell off"  threads on this site


i have 5 dyna's and ran them on almost all my bikes.  in the many years i had one fail after running non resistor plugs in it and it started skipping..


i run br8eix or br9eix plugs..   they will fire and rev easier..   the all stock ignition setup really likes eix plugs for that reason.


and like i said  about 7 degree's is what seemed to work with my 10 mill also.  the longer stroke, longer piston dwell time i think dosent need the added advance. i ran my dyna at no initial advance and the plate at 7  or also a few other curves....  with the adjustment you can actually run more inital advance...  then a lot less in higher rpm  than a static plate only advance....  350's and 4 mill stroke  thats a whole nother setup...   i like about 12+


cheeta's are not cubs  they will handle a tad amount of deto.  if you dont roast it enough to melt a piston the real stud layout pattern will keep the head from lifting and roasting an o-ring, trashing a cyl like a cub is really prone to do.  best thing ever is i blew the entire cyl off the cases one time.  broke all the case studs and ripped the nuts thread out of the 4 that were left.  rode it back to the pits.. that winter made a set of hardened studs and nuts for the cases. fixed that shit right up.,  then last 2 or 3 year's ago?  after changing to racers edge pipes i actually lifted the head up around the copper washers i used on the head adn blew out the o-rings..  some sealer  grade 10 flange washer'd nuts and thats was fixed..   now the plating is so worn its actualy starting to show alluminum in the cyl.  yeap  time for a rebuild.. 

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Cam, do you run your dyna boxes with factory dyna settings? Or when you use a dyna box do you tune it? I'm just wondering cause some of them above pretty much said, no good unless you tune it.

What about you 10milmike? Same thing, factory dyna settings?

Also cam ya I usually always use eix plugs, with risistor. Last plugs pictured are not cause they can get quite expensive when all you want out if the if us a one pass read!

I'm wondering does it make much of a difference if I tune it in with the reg plugs, but run an eix once tuned?

Also do you guys run 8's or 9's in your methanol motors?

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I run Br8es with a Dyna no problem. I have had my Dyna pack for over 5 yes. Everyone told me they were junk to get rid of it. Why? It works just fine. Plus if I ever want to tune it I can. Yes factory cdi are the best. But no need to spend money if you already have a Dyna pack.

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