sprinklerman Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 New serval kit about $1175.00. Porting $ 250-350 4mm hot rods crank 450.00 Better bearings. 80.00 Total price new approx $ 2000.00. If you are interested in mine I can save you a nice chunk of money. Like I said I'm considering a more drag oriented setup is only reason I'm thinking about selling. Sent from a van down by the river Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for the offer sprinklerman... I really just feel like 90hp for the moment, is just way to damn much. Aswell as Id like to build the damn thing myself.Any reason not to go 4mil, stock head, .30 over cylinders with a mild porting? I feel like that's a goode base for me but what do I know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Also would like to keep it on pump gas.. Any reason not to? Only reason is its quite a drive from where I am at to our closest race gas distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for the offer sprinklerman... I really just feel like 90hp for the moment, is just way to damn much. Aswell as Id like to build the damn thing myself. Any reason not to go 4mil, stock head, .30 over cylinders with a mild porting? I feel like that's a goode base for me but what do I know... A 4mil stock cyld motor is a great setup. Contact some sponsors and explain your wants and needs then decide from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I also have a stock cyl 4mm setup from Redline if interested. I have too much motor junk laying around..trying to streamline things. Haha Sent from a van down by the river Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Also would like to keep it on pump gas.. Any reason not to? Only reason is its quite a drive from where I am at to our closest race gas distributor. nope, unless your competitively racing and want to squeeze every last pony out of your motor, no real reason to use alky or race gas...most banshees are on pump gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks for all the help! Ive learned a ton in the last three days lurking around. Plus all the quick reply's/ help makes it that much easier. Its almost frustrating to think Im just now getting around to a banshee. As it seems almost to.. easy to rebuild these things,I will soon find out. Only other question I have for the moment is how on earth do you tell what year it is... Havent found a tag on it, nor flpped it up to check the VIN. Block says something to the sort of "3GGC..." Either way, pretty good snow fall over the last 24hrs. So stuck here lurking and pestering you fellas with questions for the next day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Dont have to "flip" it up to see the vin. Its on the frame under the shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Ok, well how do I determine the year from the VIN? Going to trek through the snow to the shop and write it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32169 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 10th number is the year. 1-9 is 01-09 A-Z (minus a few letters is everything else) I have the chart at home. But assuming your in the states, chances are slim you have anything over an 06 unless some one paid a shit load to ship it from another country. Or you have an oem replacement with no vin. So get the 10th letter or number and you can easily find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uman1030 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32169 Reply 10 on the above thread link will tell ya what year the frame is. Its the 10th spot letter/number Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 A: 1980 B: 1981 C: 1982 D: 1983 E: 1984 F: 1985 G: 1986 H: 1987 I: not used J – 1988 K: 1989 L: 1990 M: 1991 N: 1992 O: not used P: 1993 Q: not used R: 1994 S: 1995 T: 1996 U: not used V: 1997 W: 1998 X: 1999 Y: 2000 Z: not used From 2001 through 2009, numbers were used to designate a vehicle's model year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Man you guys are on it, 10th digit is : W. Looks to be a 98, no real matter.. was just wondering. Once again, thanks tons! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOAT Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 So what is this about what needs to be done to a cylinder for the 4 mil rotating assembly? Ive read of running the spacer etc... Now, basicly what Im reading is telling me is.. The reason people send there heads out for port work is to... Change "port timing?" For the stroker crank? What if I don't do that? Will It still work?They also say the head needs milled... How much? And why? If I will be running a factory head... In my mind... That would raise compression and maybe put me into the realm of running race gas, which.. I do not want to do... If I cant run just a fresh set of cylinders ontop of a 4 mil crank without some special machining or.. "port work" I think Ill stay stock stroke..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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