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which cylinders to buy?....


mopar1rules

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I haven't got the 'pic' thing down yet. Here's a link to some https://db.tt/N7q1CQ9U There is an array of guillotines out there that fits this body....

It looks pretty similar, but I really wonder.

 

To the OP, I have a 485pv motor setup by Wildcard Racing and it's a great "all around" motor. Boatloads of low to mid range, and topend that still can make your asshole pucker up. Not a fan of the $300.00+ pistons it requires.

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they are modded ( maybe..) h-2 pistons..  they are a larger bore and when using a wiseco "premium quality" they are going to run a little more.  hell most 68mm smaller wiseco's are in the 195-220 range depending on where you get them  140 ish is what the 71-73mm run in cheeta.  plus they last a shit ton longer than the piston eating cub setups. ( at least what I HAVE seen)

 

the valve's in the larger bores ARE larger spread.  the ones in my 73mm are set up for 73mm width.  the 68mm bore has a 68mm bore width type valve.. just trying to clear up some stuff here.  these cylinders already have a bad rap and lots of "misinformatino floating around.  the rotax valve body is really close to fitting.  i would prefer them for the spring adjusting..  actually perfect would be cable driven using TPS and load off of motor..  instead of exhuast pressure  BUT  they still work really good.

 

the 400 bore PV cheeta can use a stock stroke crank and in my OPINION make all the power you would ever need in a trail bike ( so crank cost is lower also)  hell i ahve done a few with stock rebuilt OEM cranks.... 

 

if the $$$ isnt as much of a problem you can and would probably be very happy with a 400 pv cheetah.  

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So, you use a keihin main jet to adjust how and when the power valves open? Sounds like a shitty setup to me. I assumed they worked like the exhaust valves found on the Polaris and Ski-doo sleds. I think I will stick to the cub and give it high comp for better bottom end.

Using a jet is quite nice. It allows for more fine tuning and much less effort to change then the process of swapping springs and then cutting them back to fine tune them.
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Where can I find out more information on the serval setup? I have read so many good things about serval but cannot find any specific information on it...

 

Thanks

Mike

Type "Serval" into the search box. Or "serval" and "bansheehq" into google. youll find out all the info you want on them. .. and believe me,theres a lot of info out there on them. Should be all you need to know.

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they are modded ( maybe..) h-2 pistons..  they are a larger bore and when using a wiseco "premium quality" they are going to run a little more.  hell most 68mm smaller wiseco's are in the 195-220 range depending on where you get them  140 ish is what the 71-73mm run in cheeta.  plus they last a shit ton longer than the piston eating cub setups. ( at least what I HAVE seen)

 

the valve's in the larger bores ARE larger spread.  the ones in my 73mm are set up for 73mm width.  the 68mm bore has a 68mm bore width type valve.. just trying to clear up some stuff here.  these cylinders already have a bad rap and lots of "misinformatino floating around.  the rotax valve body is really close to fitting.  i would prefer them for the spring adjusting..  actually perfect would be cable driven using TPS and load off of motor..  instead of exhuast pressure  BUT  they still work really good.

 

the 400 bore PV cheeta can use a stock stroke crank and in my OPINION make all the power you would ever need in a trail bike ( so crank cost is lower also)  hell i ahve done a few with stock rebuilt OEM cranks.... 

 

if the $$$ isnt as much of a problem you can and would probably be very happy with a 400 pv cheetah.

 

Good to know about the valves for the bigger cylinders. I was informed wrong.

 

For those wanting to run 110 rods with a 68mm bore wossner makes an excellent piston thats cheaper than the cp/trinity/whatever stuff.

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