KaN Powersports

It's quite simple. He demanded time line. He demanded the return of the engine. Does he have right to impatient? Probably. He's not the only one who has waited. .... Things don't go as planned sometimes. But, in lieu of all of this, when he hastily demanded that engine returned, I did so. At that time I informed him I haven't finalized the invoicing. The balances are not settled up. I'd rather have this done than worry about petty complaining. So, who is in the wrong? The guy trying to be nice? Or the guy full of demands without even knowing where he stands? I never once made an excuse. I never implied I wouldn't refund anything if it were due. I said "I haven't sat down and updated the invoices yet". Since he's made a huge issue of it- I did sit down and finalize the paperwork. He owed money-an alleged refund isn't due. It's that simple folks. I don't care about that. But would rather not let this get manipulated into something it isn't. .. If everybody got to dictate their billing and demand refunds based on their emotion. Nobody could be in business; they'd be writing checks everywhere. That's all.

OK! First, there's nothing to defend on the time line. We were upfront with everyone about our relocation. Like most new construction; everything fell behind schedule. Second- I was both publicly and personally upfront with everybody. Many remember seeing the posts. 2nd- The customer is the boss. When everything sent is deplorable or junk it makes it difficult to get everything right. The carbs were forwarded to redline for a different build. They were quickly returned and deemed not usable. At that point they were returned to me. The transmission was problematic. The completed engine had to be tore down for a third time. And the trans sent back to that guy to get rectified (several months added waiting on that) Millennium was in the heart of sled season. 18 weeks after the porting was completed. Then out of impatience, the engine was demanded to be returned. At this time, the engine was in my roller ready for the dyno. Those carbs were beyond saving. They wouldn't even hold alky. That's where it got to. Before he demanded the return/refund. The cooler he sent was too small for the assembled engine. I paid the difference on the return shipping. I didn't bother with the final invoice, reflecting that he has a negative balance for the labor of the extra disassembly, carb work, and portion of labor installing the engine in my roller. In years, and years of being in this business-this is one of the only (if not, only) complaints stated against me. I didn't make excuses on atv drag racer- the post was deleted. I'm not here to make excuses either. I received bad reviews everywhere yesterday. If they don't get reversed - the balance of the invoices will be forwarded to a collection agency. I would rather call it a wash and get on with things. He received a legit 4 mill at a reduced cost, over anywhere else. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

You have a multitude of awesome choices through here Yes, we do porting, and are very capable of helping out. And as a non-biased recomendation; I see tons of other's talent roll through the shop with various other tasks to be accomplished. I see a lot of crap work, laziness, and 'half hearted hacking' regularly (whether it somewhat ran or not).... Rather than speaking negatively, or portraying a person's 'favorite guy' I will suggest just a few that I feel you cannot go wrong with....(No partticuar order) Myself (of course-lol) K&T RedLine Racing (And maybe some others that would not be site sponsors) The key factor is to call and talk to each one, asking many questions, and listening for sound answers, or explanations with variables that will match your intentions-good luck

You're absolutely right Zilla ASTM D2699. My bad- I referred to the wrong notes I had from my studies. But; they still allow for regional elevation compensation in the test engine-as I understand. Calling me names is Kindergarten level though. Answer me one thing please-maybe I'm wrong here too; What is the flash point of 91 vs. 93 in our country? Also, what is the flame propagation speed (Flame front)? It's my understanding they are the same-this is what I based my original statement "91 and 93 are the same fuel" and a region specific. Am I incorrect? And, Why? "dumb ass and Moron" are not valid answers to me. The AKI carries the standard for classifying the appropriate fuels into their proper categories. You are absolutely correct about that -and as I understand, is accurate and repeatable down to .02. (At least we know what we are getting out of the pump has some level of consistency)

Thacker contacted me to build his engine because he has a different set of ideas. (good or not, valid or not) He solicited his ideas all over, and couldn't get the verbal responses or support he was looking for- The customer is our employer. Whether I agree or not, is irrelevant-I actually recommended a different route. But again the customer is the employer. He isn't after a 300' high revver per say. Steel clutch baskets are nothing new to the powersports world for trying to widen a given torque curve (flywheel weights either)-he got the idea from research there I'd assume. I have personally never tried a steel basket in a banshee-can't say whether, or not the results would be the same as in a single MX engine. But the engineering of this build is his idea-I'm simply ensuring it transpires correctly. He's contacting me, and telling me I can say I'm not building his engine to try to 'save face'.... This doesn't matter to me. If he had good ideas; the build he engineered will shine. If not; the ideas will fade into the woodwork in time. In the meantime; I still do what I do........

Just so you are aware, they specify a RON result from a simulated test engine the ASTM standard allows for compensation of the controlled elevation to the variable compression test engine as per the region the fuel is intended for. The RON value itself is a varying factor to the number that is used in the averaging formula that gets 'stuck on the side of the pump' that meets the standards of ASTM D-2855.13. OG, Castor based synthetics ARE simply awesome. But there are synthetics (full/true) That are more impervious to the high end fuels such as Methanol, and Oxygenated fuels. My earlier statement is intended for the same type of guy that would mix a load of alky, or thin-ass avgas and let it sit in the garage for a few weeks.... Guess I need to learn to be more specific......

Thanks Zilla you are real professional. Good equation for octane-now show how the results make it to the pump ( The actual RON value-etc)-and what method they used to put it there (despite my typo)-in our country its an average of both, or just the one........ Isn't pinging a form of knocking? What you say about lead is essentially identical-with different wording I mentioned NOTHING about lead's lubing properties/or not...... But, thanks

Avgas- Lower specific gravity=thinner. Thinner=washing a cylinder of it's oil and in four strokes w/ conventional rings, quicker oil contamination. This is why aircraft use 50, 60, and 70 straight weight engine oil and gapless rings commonly. LL=Low Lead this is helpful for combating pinging and better elevation related stability, and for 'cushioning' the valve on the seat (especially the ex valve). 2 strokes get oil in the fuel-problem #1 isn't as severe as in four stroke engines-better to avoid Castor based oils though. New age synthetics handle the different fuels (including methanol, and oxygenated) much better with more tolerance. Furthermore, the octane rating for Avgas is NOT the same method as for at the pump. We use two main standards for the pump fuels; RON and ROM and also and average of both (Why the eastern/middle part of the country is 93 at the pump and the same fuel is 91 at the pump in other areas). So comparing 105LL to 91 on the same scale is not a very good way to do things. Pipes- Well, soundwaves travel more efficiently through heat, and are impervious to radiuses but are quickly upset with abrupt, or irregular surfaces. The same exact pipe is way better off being smooth slow transitions vs. abrupt sharp cornered changes-this is a no-brainer Look at a fine musical instrument vs. a cheap rental one-crimped seams vs. lead 'sweated' and hand smoothed ones-both horn would work fine (one better than the other)..... This, to me does NOT mean a hand coned pipe isn't as good as a hydro formed one, it just means that the more care focusing on the simple physics of soundwaves will yield a better pipe. Despite he methodology of construction. I've seen some pretty 'ratty' stuff utilizing both methods of construction. Stamped halves are simply easier to achieve the 'goal' with-but the die sets are crazy detailed/expensive for the initial set-up Hope I don't get hazed for my opinion

Thanks I'm looking into what I could offer for both 7, and 10 packages..... Stay tuned-haha Of course these kits will require machine work to the cases, so I'll try to make a dual price package- 1 for just the kit and 1, for the kit and machining labor...........

^^^^^^^^We can work something out Call this week with your needs (801)686-4556

KaN Powersports is offering a 421 cub/serval (your choice) for the tax season!! What we have put together for you: 1- Cub or Serval (your choice) cylinder w/ hardware 1-Kan Powersports head with custom cut domes for your application 2-Wiseco piston kits 68mm 2-Wrist pin bearings 1-Hot Rods 4 mil long rod crank assembly 1-Complete gasket kit All for, $1865.00! We are offering this top-end kit for the tax season starting now until May 1st!! Call to secure your new top-end! (801) 686-4556 kanpowersports@yahoo.com www.kanpowersports.com

Tyler Clark does a great job for everyone with the passion for the Banshee! We, too, would like to extend a thanks to everyone out there for the tremendous support this year! We are offering this Holiday sale pricing exclusively to Banshee HQ members. Let's bring in the new year together with top-running machines! BRAAAAP Our sales listed below are available now through Jan 5th. Pricing + Shipping..... WISECO PISTONS 573 Series (Blaster) 68mm & 68.25mm ........................ $89.99 ea 513 Series (Banshee) Stock-66.25mm .......................... $103.99 ea Pro X CAST PISTONS Blaster 68mm ............................ $76.99 ea Banshee Stock-66.5mm ............................. $78.99 ea COMPLETE GASKET KIT ............................................... $48.95 ea TOP END GASKET KIT ............................................... $29.99ea COOL HEAD O-RING SET ................................................ $16.95ea BLACK or WHITE UHMW (plastic) CASE SAVER ........... $29.95ea KaN Powersports T-SHIRTS .................................... $25.00 (with orders over $100.00......12.95-shipping included w/ parts order) VARIOUS LABOR DISCOUNTS AVAILABLE .............. Call with your specific needs, and details. Thank you again for a killer 2013!!! Nate KaN Powersports LLC (801) 686-4556

Nikasil is a Silicone/Carbide blend cemented with nickel. It's hardness is second to diamond, and it is 'oillific' meaning that it chemically bonds with oil and retains it in it's pores. Meaning=harder than a sleeve, more slippery, and it's elasticity (thanks to the nickel) is similar to aluminum, so a tighter clearance can be utilized if desired. It's thickness averages .002-no more than .010 so there is not much maintenance available and it takes a diamond hone to perform correctly. In the event of a failure the cylinder needs to be stripped in a Nitric acid, welded and bore restored, then re-plated. A sleeve is 'serviceable' meaning it can be bored, honed, replaced at will etc. Newer sleeves are alloyed with a CrMo cast iron blend that helps reduce friction over their predecessors, and their rockwell testing yields better results than ever before. They need more initial clearance to a given piston due to different expansion rates of aluminum/steel at same temps. Their biggest crutch is that they retain more heat than nikasil, therefore, it runs hotter or needs a better cooling system for similar set-ups.

The sky is the limit. What's your budget? And intended riding style-play with some race, strict drag only, chassis, etc?

Basics first... What mods? Does it have E-brake, and TORS still? (Is the brake on?) But for starters, check the continuity in the key, and kill switch. Corrosion may be your enemy from a 'sitter'. If you don't want to start with testing, then spray a buttload of WD-40 into the switch and rock it off and on-sometimes that's all it takes Good luck!!

LMFAO- I think he's gone!! haha But; Unpack your silencers pull the core tube out and then it'll be real loud! (Any performance issues aside) Or- look between the lines! How many shortened silencers do you see out there on a bike that has 20+ years and billions of mods!! Wonder why? If your not interested in learning-there's a clue

Check spark quality as well....

Never thought of this-that would be way easier-LMOA

Good point-haha He needs to specify stock cylinder or not-I made an assumption in my earlier post regarding sleeves

To answer the question-haha; Stock bore can be taken to around 66.5mm With a new sleeve fitted, you can shove a 68mm piston in there and this sleeve maxes out at 69.5mm All sizeable overbores should be complimented with correct/matching porting to restore or enhance the port's job.....

The stock crank can accept an array of power mods. The reasoning for going through all of it is more 'wear & tear' related. If you have an engine that has been run for some time, play and fatigue set in. If you are modding for more power it is advisable to build the entire thing so that there are no surprises later. Years ago I slid a cam into a good running 350 small block. Ran real good when done, within 3 weeks #1 rod had a spun main bearing-lesson learned (I think I was like 17). Replace/rebuild your crank for peace-of-mind, then you'll have a solid foundation for you rotating assembly. Make a Plan for the build, educate yourself, and execute it-you'll get more performane for the dollar this way; rather than randomly throwing parts/mods at it till your either exhuasted, or have spent enough for several builds.

Well, a new cool head= @200, New wisecos = @ 250. So, whether the cylinders are junk or not, may be worth considering. Plus side is-when you get it all and it is K&T's work-SCORE!!! I'd personally be cautious though, you know the old saying "If it sounds too good to be true".....

Maybe I misunderstood-Do you have stock carbs? Or, were you supposed to post a pic and were asking what carbs you had?

I cringe when people come to my shop with a 'sitter' carb job, or low compression and fog it with ether to get it going! Waiting for it to pop a crank seal everytime! haha