notatallhappy Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I believe banshee stock carbs have a left and a right bowl. Make sure you put them back on right or the choke will not work right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Will purchase new plugs tomorrow and let you guys know whats up. Also noticed that both my plug boots are different and I don't have much wire length. I remembered back when I was having starting issues before it seemed like a loose plug boot (threads into the wire) so I cut the wire back 1/2" and rethreaded it in and thats when I had the most success (if you want to call it that) in starting. Is it possible to just put new wires on the coil or are the wires fixed to the coil end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I believe banshee stock carbs have a left and a right bowl. Make sure you put them back on right or the choke will not work right. Bowls are on correctly. (Bowl with jet is on the choke side) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Most have little if any luck replacing coil wires. Even though both plugs fire at same time, it's hard to tell if they're fireing on both comp strokes. Pull flywheel with correct puller , clean rust off stator poles, inside of Fwheel, and timing lugs on outside of wheel. Check there isn't corrosion between stator plate and cases. Gap pick-up coil. Make sure ALL connections are clean and tight, add di-electric grease. Make sure coil mount is bare metal, add di-grease. Better yet is run ground wire from coil back to engine. Are you sure pistons are facing the correct way? Has happened before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Most have little if any luck replacing coil wires. Even though both plugs fire at same time, it's hard to tell if they're fireing on both comp strokes. Pull flywheel with correct puller , clean rust off stator poles, inside of Fwheel, and timing lugs on outside of wheel. Check there isn't corrosion between stator plate and cases. Gap pick-up coil. Make sure ALL connections are clean and tight, add di-electric grease. Make sure coil mount is bare metal, add di-grease. Better yet is run ground wire from coil back to engine. Are you sure pistons are facing the correct way? Has happened before. Yep, pistons are facing the correct way. Definitely want to check for spark and such before going through all that. How hard is it to get to the Stator? I haven't really looked at that procedure yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Easy as pie. Couple screws on the stator cover, remove shifter. What I described is what I did to eliminate 1 cyl mis-fire. You MUST use a Banshee flywheel puller, 2-3 jaw will ruin your flywheel. Starting with the stator is the best way of diagnosing spark problems. If you want ohm the stator while you're in there. Also make sure flywheel doesn't rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I read somewhere about the woodruff timing key sometimes shearing. So I suppose it'd probably be a good idea to get in there and see what's up. Is the crank seal easily accessible once the flywheel comes off? Thinking about just replacing that if it's right there as well. How easy is it to get ahold of a banshee flywheel puller? I have many different pullers and tools being a machinist, but I'll trust you if you say it requires a specific one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 this is what the flywheel puller looks like... not sure what the thread pitch is but looks easy to make. you can pick one up for anywhere around $10-$20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris327 Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 just looked the thread pitch up its 27mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadbeat Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 just looked the thread pitch up its 27mm pitch is actually the the distance between the teeth bud, outer thread pitch is 1.0 on that puller, 27mm x 1.0 LH (left hand) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Sorry, can't change seals without splitting cases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Lame...haha. Well I'll dig into her later today and double/triple check on things and report back. I really hope I can get her running right real soon. Would like to enjoy it some before it gets too cold..... Thanks for the help and ideas guys... I appreciate it all very much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Make your own flywheel puller? Seriously? They're $15. The only way to make one is in a lathe. I have a lathe and could make one, but there's no way I would spend the time to do it. Besides that, you would need a flywheel in your hand to check the thread depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kedge82 Posted August 29, 2013 Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 buy a fly wheel puller and buy yourself a stator and coil from rm stator for about a 100 dollars with free shipping put in the 27.5 p and 280 mains and go rip it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordanksartell Posted August 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2013 Not about to start buying more shit to throw at it until I can verify what the problem actually is. Have enough money into the rebuild as is. For all I know the gaps on the plugs could be way off and they could be fouled up. When I pulled them before they were wet but they looked really clean. So I assumed they were good. Have new plugs to gap and go in but it's been hot as balls today so I haven't messed with it much other than trying to push start it a few times. Definitely is seeming like its not getting spark or not good enough spark as it doesn't even pop. You can hear the compression but that's it. No pops, no smoke, nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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