A Build From The Frame Up (4-10) months

[kyledude351]

I'm building a Banshee from the frame up.

The previous owners have dicked this quad quite badly.

Missing bolts everywhere, cracked pieces etc. 

 

It's a shame really.

 

Coming from a four stroke, I don't have much experience with the 2 smokers that you guys adore.

I've been a fan of my cousins Banshee (06BCbanshee) and the mods he's done to it, but now I have my own and I don't really know what to do with it. 

 

I'm stripping her right down to the frame, and starting with a custom built gusset kit, fabricated by me.

Then I'm going to move onto the motor work, and get this broken Banshee brapping once again.

 

I hear all these great things about the 4 mil stroker kit, from Weisco, and the bottom end torque that it ads. I want to start my engine work with this crank, and a set of Weisco pistons and rods to go with (all forged internals etc.).

 

I need you guys to help me match mods and tell me what works for you. What should I do with this busted Banshee?

Give me your advice on mods and how to pull the huge power out of these motors that I hear about, (60-70 horse) and maybe add a little laughing gas.

 

After moving on from the motor, I need advice on good set ups for track riding, and TT/Ice racing. What kind of A arms do you guys like? I'll be running Elka suspension and linkage, they are my main sponsor. Swing arms? Lower the subframe? 

 

How can I make my transmission shift smoother and faster and hold up to the coming power upgrades?

 

What's good for braking? Do you guys have suggestions on caliper/rotar combinations?

 

Anything that you guys love about your mods (custom or not) tell me, and tell me what you'd like to see. 

 

I have the time and money, I just want to get it right the first time.

 

In Brap we trust.

[trickedcarbine]

You picked the right bike to ice race. If you spend as much on the chassis as the motor, IT WILL REIGN SUPREME. You will find that these things are far less complicated then the rest of your four stroke stable.

 

As far as the motor, you are smart for going with the 4mm right out of the gate. Get a HotRods with the 115 rods, and have it speced and welded.

Then there is your cylinder work. If you are able to salvage the ones you currently have you should have them ported and have domes set up as well by whoever you choose to do the motor. You will also need supporting mods. Cool head for the domes, reeds, intake, carbs, pipes, proper clutch set up, timing plate, transmission cut(Cam ATV does a nice stock cut) and shifting mods. It should get you low to mid 70's on pump or even 80ish on race fuel.

Your motor set up will be really close to the dune stuff out there. It will give you enough grunt out of the hole and still pull the big straights.

 

There are a handful of guys that have Successful flat track and TT motors out there. Jim at Passion Racing has put trophies in to many peoples hands with his motors. Brandon at Wild Card Racing has some success stories it TT. Cam at Redline seems to be able to turn any thing in to gold and I believe he has done a few winners in his time....... Then the names you won't hear much on here. Kevin Gigot, or John Stalworth. Pikes Peak legends! They know the motor you need. Those and only those names have I seen in the winners circle at Flat Track, TT, or Ice Racing.

 

With the motor set up, you will need to really work on the chassis. You could do some budget +2 arms with blaster or 300ex shocks. A nice Long travel set up would be the best. Set it so the quad sits sagged down in the travel so that when the front end is lifting out of the turn the wheels will droop and still make contact and allow you to steer in stead of pushing to the out side. Steer clear of the Full Flight arms. There just isn't enough room to work with a sway bar on them.(ask Jesse) As for the shocks, make sure to get something with a remote resivoir in stead of the rezzy mounted to the shock. That way you will have clearance for the sway bar. Next point, a good sway bar is needed. 450's can run with out them, but the banshee needs one. Wacko2000 is selling a dura blue bar at a great price. My buddy might beat ya to it though. If you need to buy it later, Sidewayz is making a new bar or you can get one from Rath. Try to avoid the clamps on the arms. They do work, but the bar works better if mounted to an actual shock eye or welded tab. Out back, get a -2 swing arm and a wider axle. Make sure your stock shock is fresh so it adjusts properly and use a lowering link with greasable zerks. I would steer clear of the R6 shock unless you are super fat or having it resprung. Been there done that, let my words save you money and time.

If you are really serious I would suggest some sort of ZPS set up all the way around. That allows you to change the quad height with out messing with the shock rates. Tires, some front tires with a semi deep lug and a flat profile in the middle. The Mohawk stuff is cool looking and will be ok through tracks that aren't cleaned up often, but on clean ice the flatter tire profile prevails. Out back, Cheng Chin C826's.

 

Set the bike up to "drag race" the straights and use the sway bar for the turning. Try to not get to low either. It will kill weight transfer which you will need to get hooked up. The front arms should never be parallel to the ground. If you can, get the quad at the appropriate height and keep the engine cradle area parallel to flat ground.

 

Like I said in the other thread, pm my your number and call any time you like.

[06BCBANSHEE]

Kyle your gonna dominate the Ice racing circuit If you do this thing right.  lets work something out where u buy my stage 2's, give you my nearly new rear stock shock, and you hook me up with your elka sponsorship  and I get stage 5's.  

 

If you wanna somewhat cheap out,  Im sure you could find some cheap YFZ 450 a arms up in FSJ,  and throw my long travel stage 2 on that.   Its best to get banshee specific A arms, but this might be a cheaper alternative.  Im sure one of your racing buddies has a pair laying around.  is your axle +2 or +4?  I couldnt imagine riding a 4 mil with stock suspension,a arms, stem, etc...

 

My banshee handles like night and day since you last rode it;  plus it was running like absolute shit.  It will never handle like your KTM tho.  I would keep a close eye on the for sale section,  try to get everything used for way cheaper, and get it powder coated if its rough looking.  

 

I am constantly heading to the US border to pick up parts, so by all means if you want to save on shipping costs and wait times, I can go pick them up for you.  Get a good summer job and start saving bro

[trickedcarbine]

No 450 arms! And X2 on watching out for the for sale section. All kinds of stuff there.

[salmon_slayer06]

Heard lots of good things about transmission mods..

 

shift star mod, do all of them except the one before... and after the neutral on the star.

Shift shaft bearings....... I reccomend the 16mm roller bearing from VXB with an inner diameter of 12mm and 12mm long. Do both sides. Caution..... you may want to remove the bushing before you drill. Or the bit will walk... trust me I know... lesson learned now I have to go and get a bigger diameter bearing and find true center and redrill. Time consuming.

 

Shift drum bearing mod. I haven't installed mine yet, but found the 28mm roller bearing to be the right OD for the current hole in the case. THe ID is 22mm..... I don't know what others have done but it looks like the shift drum won't have enough material in the casting to turn it to this size. I'm kinda stumped at what size bearing is best.... but guys on here do these mods and maybe have more info.

 

Cut every other "dog" on the gears with the 6 dogs. On the mainshaft there are 2 gears with 6 dogs. Cut every other one. On the countershaft theres 3 gears.... these are not protruding like the mainshaft ones.. have some one do it.