murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Ok, so I just got this Banshee, I was used for some type of racing, I am not sure what type, but this thing is rough! Thankfully I got a good deal on it (didn't cost me a dime) SO now I would like to go through it. The kid I got it from claimed these were just done and the motor is fresh with only a few heat cycles on it. Boysee pro series reedsCT Racing drag ported cylindersmilled head (30 thousants)ajustable timing platefmf fatty gold exhaustwhite brothers boost bottleNamara high compression pistons After tearing into the chasis a bit, I noticed that this thing is beat up, the rear swing arm is bent for sure and looks like someone did a crappy home weld job on it to maybe extend it. This being said, I would really dig it if you guys could point my in the right direction as far as what I plan to do. I do a good mix of sand, dirt, woods, etc. not going to be dragging seriously or anything First off I am would like to get a NEW swing arm for this thing, aftermarket would be great, but price does matter. I was thinking a +2 This may be easier, if anyone has some good ideas, just copy and paste this and add what you BUDGET minded builders would do! (Engine is open to whatever you would do, lets just assume the top and bottom end need redone) Rear Swing Arm (+2) - Front A Arms (and bushings?) - Handlebars - Levers - Cables - Clutch/Basket - Front/Rear sprocket - Plastics front/rear - Intake (and rubbers for the carbs, these were GLUED together!) - Carb (kits and/or mods for stock carbs) - Engine, bottom end - Engine, top end - Exhaust (Rebuild silencers?) - I'll post more pictures as I get more progress! Thanks guys, I dig the site a ton. (Yes, I already have a manual and I am mechanically compitent and a skilled fabricator...just new to these beasts and want to get what I can from the "experts") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Looks pretty sweet. Free ? Howd you manage that? Your going to tear into it and check the work done to it? That is a great idea. Your may want to post a picture of your carburetors and outside diameters if you want recommendations as to what Intake rubbers to buy and what you can do with them. The stock Banshee carburetors have TORS. ( throttle override system) Its box on each of the carburetors that uses the sensor on the thumb throttle to detect a sticky cable so you don't accidentally get throttle unless you want it. So if your familiar with carburetors and see that - That is what those ugly caps are doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Looks pretty sweet. Free ? Howd you manage that? Your going to tear into it and check the work done to it? That is a great idea. Your may want to post a picture of your carburetors and outside diameters if you want recommendations as to what Intake rubbers to buy and what you can do with them. The stock Banshee carburetors have TORS. ( throttle override system) Its box on each of the carburetors that uses the sensor on the thumb throttle to detect a sticky cable so you don't accidentally get throttle unless you want it. So if your familiar with carburetors and see that - That is what those ugly caps are doing. Yeah I plan on picking up a flywheel puller and tearing into this thing to make sure the engine is up to snuff..maybe change some stuff I am not feeling comfortable about. What do the stock bore diameters measure? I ask, so I can measure these and see if they are infact bored or not, I know pistons are usually stamped, but still, doesn't mean it was done properly. I think I know what you are saying about the TORS...Is it those nasty looking boxes on the top of the carbs in this picture? I heard... get rid of them! How do I do that? I am not sure of the carb size, but they look pretty stock to me. Thanks for the reply! I hope to get some more feedback and I will be adding to this as progress is made, I might fabricate some stuff (that I have in mind) to clean up where some things are mounted that I dont really like...so I'll document that too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Oh yeah, free because I traded some stuff that I never used and was just wasting space in my garage...that kind of free, not stolen free, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KozyHeat Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Nice! I'm not quite the opinion here on the forum - there is a lot of other guys and gals who know a ton more. Only remove the boxes if you plan on keeping the carburetors. I can see your wires are clipped for the tors boxes - which is fine. That means the electronics for it are unplugged and you won't have a problem with it not sparking! You can buy the tors eliminator kit to do the whole shebang for around $50 (before shipping, maybe after if you shop) It requires you using a new throttle cable and they give you new screw caps. After that you lose some carburetor adjustment so with the kit comes a tap and an throttle stop screw ( idle screw ) You tap the carburetors to add that functionality and now your back to normal with just the pilot air screw and a throttle stop screw. To save a few bucks what I am going to do is buy the cap+throttle cable setup $30 , and the idle screws separately ( $3-$5 /piece) and save a whole $10 because I have a tap set. Then -in theory - you sync the carburetors with the slack adjusters on the top of the carburetor ( dual-carburetor motors must be sync'd really well or you can blow them up easily because one side spins up faster and the other drags behind with improper afr) and dial in your new idle screw. its all documented on here. Yeah It'll be pretty apparent if the top end has been rebuilt. Definitely go in and check the clearances for the ring end gaps, you could check the squish clearance right now while the motor is still assembled since the head was shaved. It kinda sucks picking up a useless puller just to do one job But that puller has worked on a ton of machines for me so its nice to have around also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Before you tear then engine apart, do a leakdown test to see if you have any leaky seals that need to be replaced. If you DO tear it down, you might as well replace them anyway though. FYI The engine wont blow up like Kozy said in his reply if the carbs aren't synced. They should be sync'd ,true, but its not going to blow up like he said. So take whatever he says with a grain of salt..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I suggest you get ahold of wheelman chassis (one of our site sponsors on here) and look into what he offers for swing arms. The guy can build some freaky strong things. If your going to be more into trail riding your not going to like those cylinders (if they really are drag ported). The power is going to be so peaky that its going to get to be a challenge in the tight stuff when all the sudden the real peaky powerband comes on and your trying to avoid trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Hey, Welcome I would also do a compression test. What kind of pipes are those? Have you even ridden it? If so, is the power not to your liking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Before you tear then engine apart, do a leakdown test to see if you have any leaky seals that need to be replaced. If you DO tear it down, you might as well replace them anyway though. FYI The engine wont blow up like Kozy said in his reply if the carbs aren't synced. They should be sync'd ,true, but its not going to blow up like he said. So take whatever he says with a grain of salt..... I am thinking I will just tear into it and see what I have in there, I will post some pictures up when I get it apart and maybe you guys can help me identify what I have and point in me in a good direction for a nice mx type build instead of a drag build. (I decided to just tear it apart because after sitting in my garage I noticed oil under it as well as antifreeze up front) My buddy has a carb sync tool and that will be done anyway after I do the build up. Anything wrong with sticking with the orignial carbs? I need new cables anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I suggest you get ahold of wheelman chassis (one of our site sponsors on here) and look into what he offers for swing arms. The guy can build some freaky strong things. If your going to be more into trail riding your not going to like those cylinders (if they really are drag ported). The power is going to be so peaky that its going to get to be a challenge in the tight stuff when all the sudden the real peaky powerband comes on and your trying to avoid trees. Thanks I will do that! If they are drag ported, maybe I can find someone into a trade on here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murder_face Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Hey, Welcome I would also do a compression test. What kind of pipes are those? Have you even ridden it? If so, is the power not to your liking? They are FMF Fatty pipes. I haven't ridden it, honestly its to cold around here and the swingarm and sprockets NEED replaced (plus the oil leak and coolant leak). So, since its winter and I have a garage that stays at a nice 65-70 degrees, I am going to rip into this thing and hopefully turn out a nice respectful banshee that doesn't look like its been repaired with bubblegum and tape! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric-ross1 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Looks good,replace all seals and gaskets and do a leakdown test to make sure you dont have any air leaks Not bad man, this is what i started with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ginger Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 realize that if you plan on riding on some trails, your going to want a more mid range motor. below is what i would do if i were you Rear Swing Arm (+2) - Stock Length, unless your trails are wide, if jumping most people go shorter. I would get a wheelman, Stellar, or JL engineering one. And make sure you go round house carrier, fuck the stock setup Front A Arms (and bushings?) - +2+1 roll design a arms. Handlebars - flex bars are awesome, but expensive, whatever your heart desires Levers - ASV are most popular, but again doesnt matter Cables - just replacements. just figure out your carb setup first Clutch/Basket - hinson or mattoon, if you want to upgrade Front/Rear sprocket - i kept stock for my trail riding Plastics front/rear - stocks or fullbore Intake (and rubbers for the carbs, these were GLUED together!) - depends on carbs, billet or good stocks Carb (kits and/or mods for stock carbs) - i would rock pwk 28's 30's or 33's to try to keep some bottom end to the bike Engine, bottom end - ported to cylinders, 4 mil hot rods crank, a FAST clutch, billet impeller and gear. Engine, top end - MX/trail port from FAST, Wildcard, or any sponsor on the site. Exhaust (Rebuild silencers?) - i would run either PT mids, T5's, Pro circuts, DMC 916's, LRD adjustables. in reality, the best thing to spend money on is shocks, no point in power if you cant handle it, or get it to the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ric-ross1 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 ^ taking notes for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Once you get in to it you will start finding lots of things to replace. Hope you got cash to spend. It adds up fast to do it right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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