theputz Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 hey guys, trying to remove the case studs and cyclinder studs but they are stuck! any tricks to assist with removing without breaking? Quote
Vicstuff Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 Might try heating them up some with a torch Quote
Finch Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 double nut them. put one nut on then tightin another one on top of it case studs are in there good some heat helps Quote
Sandlvr Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 Try using a heat gun. Torch works too. Quote
do-work-son Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 YouTube got a few video of people removing them Quote
2004LEBanshee Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 cylinder studs double nut and work back and forth till they come losse. Cases same and pray. Let them soak wd40 you do not want them to break. Quote
Jereme6655 Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 if you can find stuff called Kroil.......GET IT. The shit is BY FAR the best penetrating oil that I have ever seen. I've used it to get out exhaust studs from a 1960 car.....rusted solid. Kroil'ed em and let em soak for about an hour and took the studs out with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet. Quote
Nightmare Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 if you can find stuff called Kroil.......GET IT. The shit is BY FAR the best penetrating oil that I have ever seen. I've used it to get out exhaust studs from a 1960 car.....rusted solid. Kroil'ed em and let em soak for about an hour and took the studs out with nothing more than a 3/8 ratchet. X2, we use kroil on the ratchets we use to chain down loads. Shit works awesome. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote
hp2000 Posted January 16, 2013 Report Posted January 16, 2013 Metric Stud removal tool from your local auto parts $25.00. sometimes they will snap if they are super tight doing the double nut method. Penetrating fluid for sure on those thing for sure though... Quote
sleeper06 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Posted January 17, 2013 Sometimes they snap no matter what you do but stud remover is by far the best it can slide to base of stud to disperse pressure.if you snap it have someone hit it with a tig the heat and frequency of a tig will break up the rust and I usually spin them out one hand with vise grips Quote
BigRed350x Posted January 17, 2013 Report Posted January 17, 2013 The factory studs are held in with what is supposed to be a permanent loctite material. If you heat the stud up hot enough to exceed the yield temp of the loctite it will fail, and the studs will come out with very little effort. The cases are aluminum and will act like a giant heat-sink, so it will take quite a bit of heat on the stud. I preheat my cases in an oven to about 350, then take a cherry head on the torch to the top of the stud. Get it red hot and move down about half way on the stud. Let it sit for a few and the heat in the stud will eat up the loctite. I've only had a couple cases that this was needed on, but this proceedure will work if they are being a bitch. Jared Quote
trickedcarbine Posted January 17, 2013 Report Posted January 17, 2013 When I used to work in a transmission shop I used to have to wage all out war with some studs and bolts. The absolute worst were those freaking torx head bolts that hold the bell housing on any GM 4L60/65 or 80e's. Heat them up cherry red, but before you try to spin em out give them a few whacks with a hammer. Use either a puller or even vise grips and they should come out. Quote
Paulie B Posted January 17, 2013 Report Posted January 17, 2013 I use one of these. There are no guarantees they won't snap, bend, or be reusable but I have re-used studs removed with this tool. Get it as close to the base of the stud for best results. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.