mhoksch Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I just moved to a new place right on a good sized lake so i plan on riding there every chance I get this winter. I'd like to set it up so I'm nice and stable on the ice and don't have to worry as much about flipping it. Already have LS +3+1 arms. durablue+4 axle. Wheelman-1 swingarm. Elka stg1 front shocks. And just ordered some chen shings for the rear ( thinking 1" kold kutters) Would the r6 rear shock and turning my elkas all the way down get me low enough? Should I get a sway bar? And suggestions would be great. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I just moved to a new place right on a good sized lake so i plan on riding there every chance I get this winter. I'd like to set it up so I'm nice and stable on the ice and don't have to worry as much about flipping it. Already have LS +3+1 arms. durablue+4 axle. Wheelman-1 swingarm. Elka stg1 front shocks. And just ordered some chen shings for the rear ( thinking 1" kold kutters) Would the r6 rear shock and turning my elkas all the way down get me low enough? Should I get a sway bar? And suggestions would be great. Thanks Definitely run at least 1 inch on the rear tires and you should. Be happy. They tend to go airborne if they are any smaller. As for the shocks, the R6 will get you low enough and with the Elka's it depends how Long they are. They don't need to be slammed way down and I would tell ya that keeping the front higher then the rear will help you in hook up. Especially on that stiff ass R6 shock. And if you can find a sway bar, run it. It just makes the bike Handle like a slot car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 thanks, any recommendations for the front tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 So would some type of a lowering link be a better option for the rear? I'm not planning on racing at this point, but if I'm able to find any nearby it night be fun to give it a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 Agreed with RRL on the R1/R6 shocks being to stiff for weight transfer. They tend to blow the tires off a lot and make hook up out of the corners a lot of work with the clutch and throttle. If you have a good stock rear shock or even aftermarket shock just get a real nice lowering link. If you can get a sway bar definitely do so...... As far as setting up the bar, it just depends what you like. I prefer the shocks nice and plush and use the bar to stiffen it up for turns. Some guys like the shocks ultra stiff, but in my 6 years of quads on ice, that becomes a compromise and makes the bike a little twitchy and less prone to transfer weight. Those elkas you have, what type of adjustment do they have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted September 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 They were just the cheapest stg 1 elkas so I think its only preload adjustment. Been watching for a sway bar on here, rrl just beat me to one that I wanted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Whered you move to in WI and what series are you thinking of ice racing with? There are few different ones in WI. But like RRL said the R6 shock sucks big time. I had a -2 swinger with the R6 and it was the worst choice ive made. Now im back to revalved rear with the stock swinger. PRob going back to -2 with stock rear shock. But YES a swaybar is a must! You made the right choice on the rear but like said the canadian studs are illegal for all racing here in WI. For the front its basically up to you. Ive seen the sand star mohawk whcich is the new thing but than ive also seen the dude who seems to be unbeatable use 6ply Kenda Kutters I think they were. So thats all preferance. but for your front the elkas should be fine. Most people I see either have PEP or AXIS. But if you do choose your rear setup a lowering link (stk "wishbone") would work as well if you feel you arent low enough. But rememeber you want the front a lil bit higher than the rear. This helps with weight transfer and will give yo the best bite. Also if I was you I would try to find a series that you would like to race with that is close to you because most series, all to my knowledge, only have a max of 50" wide and with that +4 axle that might put you over the limit. Im not sure just saying. Better to be safe than to get there and not be able to race. As well if your racing CWIRA they have restrictions of shees. In one of the classes you cant be over 381cc and I know you cant run powervalves on shees no matter what class you are in. But good luck getting the shee ready and hope to see you on the ice this year!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted September 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 I moved to Lodi, less than a half mile off of lake Wisconsin. As of right now I don't have any plans for racing. There doesn't seem to be much very close to me. But if I can find one to try, my axle is adjustable and I just have a stock cyl 4 mil so I should be fine for engine restrictions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 Check out CWIRA they are the closet to you. There is an Swira but last year becasue of the weather they didnt run a race at all. Your 4mil will be fine as long as your not bored at all. Check it out some of the most competitive ice racing in the mid west. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryder25 Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 For the front its basically up to you. Ive seen the sand star mohawk whcich is the new thing but than ive also seen the dude who seems to be unbeatable use 6ply Kenda Kutters I think they were. So thats all preferance. The Kenda Kutter is king right now. They hold studs much much longer than any previous setups we've ran. You can run the 21x7-10 or the 20x6-10 depending on how low you got the front end already. Having the 20" tire will help get it lower if you run out of adjustability in your shocks. Kenda Kutter 21x7-10 We honestly haven't tried the mohawks, but the people who have tried them have had screws come out or rip the ribs apart a lot easier. For peace of mind, get the kenda kutters and then you won't have to worry about it for a very long time. This was the first tire we ever ran 2 seasons on without pulling a stud. 21" Kenda 20" Kenda Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Might have to try that out this year Ryder But just as a bit of advice for everyone, if Ryder says it, id take his word for it. Unless someone thinks that they are better and can beat the unbeatable duo than hope to see you this winter racing in WI. Im not convinced yet that it can be done!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoksch Posted September 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 Now you're just scaring me away from trying to race. Sounds like I'd just be embarrassing myself out there trying to learn I'm definitely going to have to at least come up there to watch sometime tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted September 12, 2012 Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 haha yeah I hear ya. Nothing worse than knowing at the start of the race the best you can do is 2nd!! But dont worry the ICE GODS dont race in every studded class. Just stick to the amateur class, thats what i do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryder25 Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 im shocked your kenda's are lasting you! which series of the kutters do you have? I had the MX versions and they DID NOT hold together worth 2 shits. they lasted me not even a full season and in the end I had more plugs then studs in the tires! my buddy had the XC kutters.. they held up much better however the lugs where also starting to crack (not only at the studs) but just at the bottom of the lug as if the lug was starting to rip off the tire Yeah, running the soft tires won't last. I'm only guessing, but if you don't have the long stud, it will rip the lugs off. Running anything .75" or shorter is bad news. We have the XC kutters. Both Dustin and I ran 3 classes, 7 weekends and then a few random night races in Michigan. The 21" tire has held up longer. You definitely HAVE to be checking your studs after riding with them. They like to turn out so they require constant maintenance. If the stud starts to turn out and you don't fix it, it puts a lot of stress on the lug. Get your tires early, put them up in your attic over the summer and they will bake. This hardens them, then you put the studs in and run. If you want more help, send me a pm closer to winter time and I'll set you up with some good tips. And damn screaminshee, we're not unbeatable, haha. I like the compliments but I'm just glad I didn't have to race against Dustin with him being on the hybrid....then my record against him would still be 0-100. The machine makes a HUGE difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted September 13, 2012 Report Share Posted September 13, 2012 Can I get in on those tips too!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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