screamin_mimi Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 Hi guys ... everyone has been so great helping me get my Banshee in great running order! Now I need some help on how to properly break in my new Top End. I have: Duncan High Rev Pipes, K&N filter (no lid), milled head .030 over, new reeds, 27.5 Pilot Jet, 330 Main Jets, 110 Octane Fuel, etc.... SO ~ I decided to Bore my Cylinders 10 over, new Pistons & rings and a medium Port to match. I am just finishing putting it back together & want to RIDE! Now I want to make sure I break it in -- and not blow it up! Please let me know your thoughts! Thanks!! Mimi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicklez Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 My break in usually consists of running through the gears around mid RPM for about 45mins to an hour. Good idea to retorque your cylinder and head nuts after you had some heat in the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobjunior Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 My break in usually consists of running through the gears around mid RPM for about 45mins to an hour. Good idea to retorque your cylinder and head nuts after you had some heat in the motor. I always run mine through 3 heat cycles just crankk it bring it to temp than let cool off thats what works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guns4children Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 if you had some porting done you may want to go up on the mains just to make sure you dont blow the thing up from the srart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screamin_mimi Posted August 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 if you had some porting done you may want to go up on the mains just to make sure you dont blow the thing up from the srart How big do you suggest?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4MiLLDraGSheE Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 I break in starter up. Let it warm up then kill it three times. Before u start the next cycle let it cool completly. Then the fourth time give it a teeny bit of gas and thats it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted August 20, 2011 Report Share Posted August 20, 2011 i break mine in by starting it let it idle for 5 mins blip the throttle acouple times then kill it repeat again then the 3rd time i take it around my field quarter throttle 3rd gear then the final time i shift through all the gears 3/4 throttle then its ready to go i always let the cyls get cold to the touch inbetween heat cycles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 Your goal is to seat the rings. To do this requires constantly changing environments inside the cylinder. You want pressure on both sides of the ring (accomplished by accelerating and decelerating) When you first fire it up, make sure it is at operating temp before putting any load on it. Now, letting it sit there and idle at the same rpm for 10 minutes is probably the worst habit. Vary the rpm from 2000-3000rpm and blip the throttle during that time. Now that it is up to operating temp, shift into first gear and put a light load onto the engine and make sure to vary the throttle, rpm, and load. I never run high enough to hit the powerband the first run. Let it cool and start up again, same procedure for warm up. Then progressively get more aggressive with the motor as you run it. I jet rich and never run wide open until you check jetting. The best way I can explain how to ride it is "light mx riding". When you first enter a track and you take a survey lap just to get a feel for the layout and you blip the throttle, shift gears, vary rpm, and engine brake down slopes. This will be your best bet. You can monitor your progress with a compression gauge. I usually run one tank of gas through it riding like that before I start the plug chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 21, 2011 Report Share Posted August 21, 2011 do not add extra oil..... do a couple heat cycle, retorque the head and go do a few plug chops..... then give her hell. keep a load on the engine, and th rings seat in the first 10-15, and you get the best ring seat ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screamin_mimi Posted August 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 I did about 3 heat cycles... then ran her for a few hours on the trails. Runs GREAT!!! She starts on the first or second kick ... but I am getting a littl more white smoke then I expected to see. Is this normal?? Also --- I rented a compression tester --- and tested it after the heat cycles but before riding it --- and it only shows 30 psi ..... How is this possible?? Is it a bad tester?? HELP!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screamin_mimi Posted August 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 if you had some porting done you may want to go up on the mains just to make sure you dont blow the thing up from the srart should i base the jetting only on the plug check? I am running 330's ... and not sure how big to go with the new mods. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3Yamaha5Banshee0 Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) How did you do the compression check? I always take a plug out put the threded thingy in were the plug was at and with the Key OFF kick it 3 times Edited August 29, 2011 by 3Yamaha5Banshee0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 If you want a hard running bike you need to run it hard from the start. running it at mid rpm like was mentioned would be the worst thing for it. AKheathen has it figured out. you need to kick until the needle stops moving on a compression test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 Screw compression tester in. Ignition switch off. Hold throttle wide open. Kick til need stops moving. If your cylinders only had 30 psi in them.....you wouldn't even be able to kick start it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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