robert0762 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I was wondering what you guys think about using piston stops for rebuilds ? I really like useing it , but dont know if it is possible to punch a hole or bend a piston crown . If I am doing a tear down and going back with new pistons it doesnt matter . But on the reassemble I get a lil worried and try not to crank down on it to much . So is it safe to use for all torque numbers involved in a complete rebuild ,wich I think the highest one is 58 ft./lbs. for the crank or sprocket ? Also if I am cranking down on the sprocket will the gearing increase the pressure actually being put on the piston ? herse a pic and description if you dont know what I am talking about . http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=28650 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SAVAGE420 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 HUH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert0762 Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 HUH? If you use a piston stop while tightening bolts ie. flywheel nut, clutch basket, sprocket nut, etc can it put a hole in your piston ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1JUANstunna Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I'm assuming your talking about putting something in the cylinder for the piston to put against. I wouldn't recommend going that. They make tools for holding flywheels and clutch baskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert0762 Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I'm assuming your talking about putting something in the cylinder for the piston to put against. I wouldn't recommend going that. They make tools for holding flywheels and clutch baskets. I do have a flywheel/clutch holder . Its just some times its a pain to use it if the motor is on the bench . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) You already have the "correct" tool to do the job, why chance it? A caveman like me just uses a penny or rag between the gears to do same thing. Loosen sprocket nut before you even take chain off. Edited April 30, 2011 by Larry's Shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 exactly,i have the tool and stop and after the 100th motor its an impact gun and a rag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 yea i dont know about that.....that's alot of force to be putting on just a small little area on the piston..... i wouldn't chance it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I wouldn't use that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madjimmax Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 You already have the "correct" tool to do the job, why chance it? A caveman like me just uses a penny or rag between the gears to do same thing. Loosen sprocket nut before you even take chain off. X2 on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) I was wondering what you guys think about using piston stops for rebuilds ? I really like useing it , but dont know if it is possible to punch a hole or bend a piston crown . If I am doing a tear down and going back with new pistons it doesnt matter . But on the reassemble I get a lil worried and try not to crank down on it to much . So is it safe to use for all torque numbers involved in a complete rebuild ,wich I think the highest one is 58 ft./lbs. for the crank or sprocket ? Also if I am cranking down on the sprocket will the gearing increase the pressure actually being put on the piston ? herse a pic and description if you dont know what I am talking about . http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=140&navTitle=Tools%2FShop&webCatId=22&prodFamilyId=28650 Piston stops are meant to be used to stop the engine in the same position when you turn it clockwise and then counter-clockwise while setting up a degree wheel, That ia the only thing they are for. To keep things from turning you should use a flywheel/ hub holder, or a rag, or the Motion Pro tool that fits between the gears, or if you have to, a penny or some other soft metal. If you are putting metal between the gears, I would not use an impact as it is still possible to break a tooth off. Edited April 30, 2011 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 Just go get yourself an electric impact gun and you won't need to risk jacking up any pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstaten24 Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I agree with big red, I've never used a flywheel holder I just use my impact gun and as long as you use a impact socket you don't have to worry about rounding off any bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knelson Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I have used them for marking TDC on outboard flywheels. You turn the flywheel to 30btc, screw in stop, rotate f/w clockwise then mark f/w, rotate counterclockwise till stop then mark f/w, measure with something flexable between marks find exactly the middle of string to find TDC on the flywheel then adjust pointer to that mark. The ones I have are plastic from the threads down and will mushroom if you try to put any real force on them, fyi. The one I use now is a dial indicator you thread in the plug hole....makes finding tdc a lot quicker and easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigborebanshee Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 You already have the "correct" tool to do the job, why chance it? A caveman like me just uses a penny or rag between the gears to do same thing. Loosen sprocket nut before you even take chain off. You can't use the penny trick because they are not completely copper.I recommend a piece of .080 solder wire.Its soft enough to conform to the backlash between the gears.Or sometimes i use a copper banjo bolt washer.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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