robert.b.west Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I just got a new crank and when I set it in the lower half of the case one of the weld beads touches the case. Can I take a little off of the weld with a grinder or will this throw off the balance of the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted March 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I don't know what kind of crank it is. It came as a kit from a builder. I am attempting to contact them now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjc Posted March 17, 2011 Report Share Posted March 17, 2011 I don't know what kind of crank it is. It came as a kit from a builder. I am attempting to contact them now. I just finished assembling a 421 kit from a popular HQ builder. I had the same problem,dropped it in to check it's truness, and the welds scraped on the case's center webb,also had to remove some weld from the outer halves so the bearings would seat compleatly,the trueness was out a little at .0024 , from the stated .001 I would recieve, but I have ran worse,and I have seen MUCH MUCH worse in other cranks. taking down the excess weld wasn't a big deal to me ,I have the tools needed to finish it up without needing to send it back,but after spending $$$$ for a KIT, it would have been nice to just be able to check it and button it up ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 I just finished assembling a 421 kit from a popular HQ builder. I had the same problem,dropped it in to check it's truness, and the welds scraped on the case's center webb,also had to remove some weld from the outer halves so the bearings would seat compleatly,the trueness was out a little at .0024 , from the stated .001 I would recieve, but I have ran worse,and I have seen MUCH MUCH worse in other cranks. taking down the excess weld wasn't a big deal to me ,I have the tools needed to finish it up without needing to send it back,but after spending $$$$ for a KIT, it would have been nice to just be able to check it and button it up ! So I should be ok removing some of the weld and checking the runout in the crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 I just got some more info from some member on the shout... Most people dont re balance the crank after they re weld it however... if the welds are touching the cases means that the welds can be "rough" and not done properly? Post some pics up of the welds and where its not clearing... The weld for the most part looks good except for where it ended it just sticks up a little farther. I will try and post pictures. I am at work now and only have one picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjc Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 thats exactly how mine was,welds were a little big and the end of the welds were built up too much and hitting the cases and outer bearings. the welds were all right,just a little cold and too much filler rod added,its common to build up the weld ends a LITTLE and slowly cut amperage to keep it from developing cracks at the weld end points. I use very little filler rod when welding the pins,on some 4 strokes I dont use any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 so what brand crank are these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert.b.west Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 so what brand crank are these? I don't know I did not ask. It came as a kit for with a serval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 Can you post a few more pictures of the welds themselves? It damn near looks mig welded from the one picture. Id be curious to know if they are or not.. As far as fixing the problem, Id cram that fucker up someones ass!! There is no reason that those things shouldnt be drop in ready out of the box. SOMETIMES a RO check can be done, but if it is packaged properly, there is no need for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted March 18, 2011 Report Share Posted March 18, 2011 You could grind the weld down a little and it would probably be fine but like n2o said I would be sticking it somewhere that would make someone really unhappy. There is no reason to get a crank like that. Shit should show up ready to drop in and go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) You paid a lot of money for a non functional kit. It would get sent straight back if it was me. Looks mig welded to me. I had a crank tigwelded by passion racing and the weld was almost totaly flush. They used way to much wire,you can see where the weld was actualy starting to cold over lap and not penetrate towards the end. Im willing to bet that there is twice as much metal just laying on top of the crank than there is actualy penetrated. I would not grind it down and risk getting junk in any of your brand new bearings,you could probably pull it off but i wouldnt. With welding you are taking metal out and putting metal in,if you do a good flush job,your not going to change the weight that much. With a lot of excess weld you are adding a LOT of access weight. To some that weld might not look like it adds much,but take into consideration it only takes a tiny little weight to balance a whole damn car wheel,let along a small crank. Edited March 19, 2011 by Burt Reynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Highly doubt that is tig welded. Tig could weld with little to no filler rod, plus it looks more like stacks of dimes. I would do nothing but send it back. Are you willing to out the supplyer? Might save others some grief. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 (edited) Are you willing to out the supplyer? Might save others some grief. Yea because everybody should just jump on the hater band wagon before the supplyer has a chance to make it right. Edited March 20, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Two options... you could use a dremel with a small sanding drum and clean up the high spot enough to clear the cases and probably wouldn't throw anything off enough to matter. ...you could send the crank back and have your builder fix the issue for you. On the cranks I've welded I did it without any filler at all. If you used extra filler it could build up like you see in the pics. Buildup doesn't necessarily mean it was MIG welded. You can get buildup with TIG as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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