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first banshee questions


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I'll have to do that tomorrow. Thanks a lot for your help and I'll get back to this tomorrow with a bunch of answers.

 

The first 5 gallons I ran in it was klots benol the green label. And I used all of that I had and now I have a blue label Klotz. What would you prefer ?

 

That's a different story... ha ha. A lot of people on here prefer different oils. I run Klotz super techniplate (RED).

 

Good luck and make sure to ask questions if you don't know about something. Better to make sure than to be sorry. Welcome to BHQ, glad to have ya!

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Also what else would you guys think I need to check out on this bike before I start riding it a bunch?

 

I am sure others will chime in, but I would take a look at all the suspension such as bushing and such and replace all the fluids.

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first thing i would do is get the overheating issue solved. the plastic impeller and gear are prone to stripping out. definitely need to get this fixed so you dont run it too hot. take off the plastic cover on the clutch cover, then take the little metal cover off (antifreeze gonna come out), then check out the impeller. if its not chewed up then put a little pressure on it and turn the motor over by hand with the kicker and make sure it spins with resistance. if it doesnt spin then the plasic gear is stripped out inside.

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What all fluids are there to change and what do you suggest using for them. The front end feels tight. ball joints to the tie-rods no slop at all.

 

Like I said before. I run Engine Ice for coolant ( take a look at the coolant when you drain your motor to see if you can notice anything that would cause your issue). I would change the tans oil as well. This is another debate on here as well, but I run ATF Type F which you can find at any autoparts store. And for 2 stoke oil, I run Klotz super techniplate at 32:1.

 

There are a lot of different types of oils and coolants to run, so do some searching on the forum for further info if you like. I have not had any issues with the fluids I put in my bike and I am sure others use the same. There is a lot of conversation on here about what to use though so read the threads to gain more knowledge.

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go out and buy yourself a clymers manual for your banshee.....its like gold. it has all the info for repair and step by step instructions on how to perform those actions.

 

As for your overheating issue.....i bet your way lean. If it only has the jets the the pipes came with ( i wouldn't trust those anyways) AND it has a removed snorkel and a K&N filter which means its breathing easier, then chances are real good that its running lean.

 

To find out....you need to pull your carbs off the banshee.....then (1 at a time cause they are different!!!) take the carb bowl off of the carbs.....you will see a hex shape brass colored jet (main jet) which is going to require a 6mm socket to take off. On the end that you see when you pull the bowl off of you will see a number stamped on it (yes it IS there....its jus a bitch to see cause its so small). That is the size of the main jet that you are running.......let us know what it is.... 10:1 odds its like a 240 which is still way too small.

 

As jetting goes.... after all mods you need to at least CHECK your jetting.......most mods require you to re-jet. Also.....as the temperature drops.... there are more air molcules in a certain area (like a cubic foot) meaning that since the air is denser you are now sucking in more air molcules in the same amount of engine RPM...which in turn means you are running lean and have the chance of melting holes in your pistons. so you really need to rejet for colder weather.

 

let us know what main jets are in your carbs and we can help get you close to where you need to be!!!

 

Jereme

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To everyone responding to the OP with these VERY informative posts....you are all stand up guys!!!!!!!! I too am learnig a ton by reading thru this thread.

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Today I decided that I would be better off just taking it to someone who knew what they were doing. If I would have known a little more about them I would have done everything you guys had said. But risking hurting the engine I didn't wan to take that chance. So I told the guy to do a compression test and he is going go check out the jets and let me know then I will let you guys know what was in it.

 

Thanks for all your help. Really learned a lot and GREAT DESCRIPTIONS of what I would need to do. Banshee HQ is the best forum on the Internet for info and great help

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  • 3 weeks later...

Alright guys sorry for the length in time it has taken me to reply. So I decided since I didn't have a clue to what I was doing I ended up taking it to some one who did. The guy just called me yesterday and said that he is rebuilding the top end. He said compression was low so he tore in to it and the cylinders/piston had 0.0020 slop in it. So that's the scoop as of now should have shee back at the end of the week.

 

I am having withdraws from it. Pretty bad when I have only rode it about 45 minutes.

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Welcome to the site bro, and your new addiction.

 

Do yourself a favour, and like one of the other members suggested, buy a Clymers manual. It is the bible for these bikes, and easy to follow if youre just learning. This site has been indispensible to me and my bike. I would never have bought my bike if I hadnt found this site a month before the purchase took place.

 

It would be a good idea, to buy a set of jets for the carbs, so you have them. As another member also said, every engine related mod, will require at least a plug check, and possibly a rejet. Youre going to need them, as you will end up wanting more power soon, we all do. This being the mains and possibly the pilots. One size up or down makes a huge difference usually, especially in winter when the air is more dense. If ordering jets, and just starting off, I would have in my toolbox, 220-350 mains, and 25-35 pilots for 26mm stock mikunis.

 

Ask your mechanic to let you know what size jets are in there, and if the carbs are stockers.

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