Thack82 Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Thanks members for all advice & recommendations To Jim, I seen some like them on ebay but the one's I seen said in the item description for drag racing only. To BigRed350x, I put some of them HD Tusk clutches in my cousins 4mil & they are holding up great so far he only uses it to make 1/8 miles passes tho. They make them for several different riding styles, the only complaint I have is the stiffness of the pull. I'm going to fix this buy ordering a Streamline Billetanium Hydraulic Clutch Kit. I think this will take care of the problem. YAMAHA BANSHEE DUNE/TRAIL RIDING HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT! FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!! YAMAHA BANSHEE ALL YEARS. This kit is designed for Banshees that make 75-95+ H.P. and don't use a lock-up clutch (EXAMPLE: 4 MIL CUB cylinders etc,etc). Basically, all after market cylinder kits that make a lot of power or heavily ported stock cylinders. This kit is different than our economy kit because of the stiffer springs and the full size steel plates. The only difference between this kit and our drag only kit is the spring stiffness. We wanted to offer a kit strictly for high H.P. Banshees that dune and trail ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Look into a hydrolic clutch set up from streamline. I have plans to get one for the banshee further down the line in my build, my ktm has one and it has me spoiled. I can't comment on how effective it is on the banshee but here's a link to another member that recently bought one. http://bansheehq.com...0 http://cgi.ebay.com/...id=400188090684 Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at those, I'm going to buy one this week. I read a post on here from a member that said the Hydraulic Clutch's were delayed and caused the rider to slip the clutch when they shift. I wonder if theres anything to that? I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the shift star too. I hope these mods will take care of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trx4502shee Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 (edited) I'm using tusk kits in every one of my bikes.. ranging in hp from stock to 150hp. Ran them in my Dune port with no lock up wich was around 75hp. held like a champ for $50.. Dont spend anything over $100 on a clutch.. the $150 clutches are a waste imo and your just throwing money out the window. +2 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Tusk-Clutch-Kit-Yamaha-Banshee-350-87-06-/180552987726?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories Edited January 26, 2011 by trx4502shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 i run farm and sand toys clucth kit, seems to work well and didnt cost an arm and a leg, im running 6 of his hd springs also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Thanks for the reply. I've been looking at those, I'm going to buy one this week. I read a post on here from a member that said the Hydraulic Clutch's were delayed and caused the rider to slip the clutch when they shift. I wonder if theres anything to that? I'm going to go ahead and upgrade the shift star too. I hope these mods will take care of the problem. Okay, after looking at what entailed in modding the shift star I don't think I'll be doing that until I have the motor apart some time. This is the Shift lever I'm using now: Yamaha Banshee 350 EZ Pull clutch lever RED Gripper Brand new EZ Pull shorty clutch lever assembly with RED gripper. Brand NEW item. Will fit all sport ATV's that have there parking brake assembly removed and saftey wires removed. Comes complete as shown. EASY PULL CLUTCH PERCH ASSSEMBLY, 325% less effort, offers 3 different settings, first setting makes it harder to pull for some "slipper" clutches, the second setting is a "stock, same effort pull", and the third cable setting offers the "easy" pull. Installs in just a few minutes. • Universal application fitment and "adjust-on-the-fly" style perch. • Forged alloy construction for increased durability with a rubber boot to keep out dirt. • Bearing in pivot provides smooth lever feel and wear protection. Don't let the Item description fool you. This lever does make the clutch feel more responsive, and it does have enough adjustments to make it more comfortable VS the stock lever and perch but it doesn't aid in the pull factor at all if your using a Heavy Duty Clutch/Springs. I soak everything that supposed to be lubed (like the brake and clutch cables) in Z-MAX Engine Treatment that $20 quart of oil that penetrates medal and take a syringe and squirt Royal Purple 50W in the cable sleeve quit a bit so I don't think my cable causing the stiffness. I started believing in that Z-MAX after I did the T.O.R.S. Delete. I took a Dremel Tool and cleaned the slides and polished them with Turtle Wax Fine Polishing Compound and Eagle 1 wadding Polish. After I got the carbs but back together the throttle would stick in cold weather I tried oiling them several times and it would fix it for a while then it would hang again. So I tried a light weight synthetic Grease and it made it worse. I thought I would give it one more try so I bought ta bottle of Z-MAX Engine Treatment filled up a small pan and heated it up on the stove and dropped my carburetor slides in it. I let them set in the scaling Z-MAX for about 45 minutes and cut the stove off and let them set over night in it. After I reinstalled them I never had a problem. I'm ordering the Streamline Hydrolic Clutch set ups for mine Friday. I'll let you you know how it turns out. Please waitImage not available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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