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right cylinder not firing


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.. My Shee fire's up and idles fine. when i go and hit the throttle the right cylinder goes out .. by that i mean it doesn't blow my hand away from the silencer but the left does. and the sound changes a lil , i can tell its not firing.. Fresh gas,, new plugs,, i made sure the plug wire wasn't grounding out or arching by wrapping them with electric tape for the plug boot to the coils .. So it's firing both cylinders at idle but mid to top RPM it only firing the left .. it started the last time i rode it so i changed to new plugs today,,Did i get bad Plugs Br8es or is it electrical prob :shootself:

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.. My Shee fire's up and idles fine. when i go and hit the throttle the right cylinder goes out .. by that i mean it doesn't blow my hand away from the silencer but the left does. and the sound changes a lil , i can tell its not firing.. Fresh gas,, new plugs,, i made sure the plug wire wasn't grounding out or arching by wrapping them with electric tape for the plug boot to the coils .. So it's firing both cylinders at idle but mid to top RPM it only firing the left .. it started the last time i rode it so i changed to new plugs today,,Did i get bad Plugs Br8es or is it electrical prob :shootself:

 

Gotta go through some motions first......

 

Are the carbs synced??? choke tube on??? Compression test... leakdown test......

 

Possibility of carbs not synced or an air leak.....just make sure your compression is good while your at it

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switch the plug wires around and see if the left cylinder drops off...

 

then let us know

 

agreed, the first and easiest thing you should do to troubleshoot a dead cylinder is to swap the plug wires, if the problem changes sides you know that its an electrical problem. no switch and you know it's mechanical...

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12 O CLOCk and SPURDY yall hit the nail on the HEAD. :headbang: . check compression =both cylinders 170psi switched plug wires + no change, dead right cylinders anyting but idle,, pulled the filters the clean the carbs and what do i SEE the NEEDLE sitting half way up out the main jet,,, ok now it makes sense the needle clip broke :jesterlaugh: .. went to the local repair man he had plenty on hand laying around,,, come back to the shop pull the left carb to check what the clip was set at ,,, reinstall the left and right carb and SHEE runs like a top again :clap: thanks guys i love The BHQ and its members.. ohh and the repair man said he has a ignition programmer for sale .. its the small box that has stock curve 1 curve 2 and curve 3 on it he said it advances my timing without the adjustable timing plate ..Its programmed by trinity for a drag setup ..Will this help on my bike

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do not get it. Trinity isn't known for its greatest quality parts.....or anything but selling junk. There are other ways to advance your timing. MOST shee's like about 4 degrees of timing advance....but some like a little more or a little less. with an adjustable plate you can go from +8 to -8. with a pre-programmed box you cant adjust where the timing is set at. and if you'd rather not spend the $50 for the plate then you can just get a +4 woodruf key that will advance your timing. but either way the timing plate is by far the best idea.

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do not get it. Trinity isn't known for its greatest quality parts.....or anything but selling junk. There are other ways to advance your timing. MOST shee's like about 4 degrees of timing advance....but some like a little more or a little less. with an adjustable plate you can go from +8 to -8. with a pre-programmed box you cant adjust where the timing is set at. and if you'd rather not spend the $50 for the plate then you can just get a +4 woodruf key that will advance your timing. but either way the timing plate is by far the best idea.

 

 

ok thats what i thought.. but with the plate you adjust the whole timing( +4 or whatever)over stock throughout the curve.. the dyna or trinity you can adjust the timing like +4 on bottom end till a set rpm then -2 on the top end to rev-out better and not have to adjust the plate or anything you just have to have it programmed.. AM i right on that ??? the guy wants 100 bucks for it and i can install it and see if the setting can help the performance of my bike ..

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ok thats what i thought.. but with the plate you adjust the whole timing( +4 or whatever)over stock throughout the curve.. the dyna or trinity you can adjust the timing like +4 on bottom end till a set rpm then -2 on the top end to rev-out better and not have to adjust the plate or anything you just have to have it programmed.. AM i right on that ??? the guy wants 100 bucks for it and i can install it and see if the setting can help the performance of my bike ..

 

bump...

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