Tether Kill Switch

[DAL]

Hi Everyone,

 

I'm getting back into ATV's after almost 20 years, so I have some basic questions that I can't remember the answers to. I searched through the forum for a while, but couldn't find the exact answers I was looking for.

 

1. I picked up a Pro Design tether kill switch, but I can't recall which system it replaces; the key or the on/off switch. Or does it matter?

 

2. I ultimately want to get rid of both the key and the on/off switch. Whichever system the tether kill switch doesn't replace, what's the proper way to remove the other?

 

Thanks.

[ree_ree]

Hi Everyone,

 

I'm getting back into ATV's after almost 20 years, so I have some basic questions that I can't remember the answers to. I searched through the forum for a while, but couldn't find the exact answers I was looking for.

 

1. I picked up a Pro Design tether kill switch, but I can't recall which system it replaces; the key or the on/off switch. Or does it matter?

 

2. I ultimately want to get rid of both the key and the on/off switch. Whichever system the tether kill switch doesn't replace, what's the proper way to remove the other?

 

Thanks.

 

 

dont ask me how to hook these things up but i know you can replace both the key and on / off switch with it. when i bought my bike it already had one installed...its kinda nice not needing a key

[bansheesandrider]

Hi Everyone,

 

I'm getting back into ATV's after almost 20 years, so I have some basic questions that I can't remember the answers to. I searched through the forum for a while, but couldn't find the exact answers I was looking for.

 

1. I picked up a Pro Design tether kill switch, but I can't recall which system it replaces; the key or the on/off switch. Or does it matter?

 

2. I ultimately want to get rid of both the key and the on/off switch. Whichever system the tether kill switch doesn't replace, what's the proper way to remove the other?

 

Thanks.

You have to determine if the tether switch is open or closed when the cord is removed. If it is open with the cord removed then it will replace the Key Switch. If it is closed with the cord removed then it will replace the Off/Run Switch. The 2 wires going to the Key Switch have to be connected to make the bike run, The one wire going to the Off/Run Switch(all the other wires going to the left side of the bars are for the headlights or the PB rev limiter if it is a 97 or newer) needs to be an open circuit for the bike to run, and it needs to be shorted to ground to kill the bike. Hope this helps.

Edited July 15, 2010 by bansheesandrider

[DAL]

My Clymer arrived last night, and the wiring diagram helped a ton. It was a lot easier than I remember.

 

Next up, removing the key! What's the best way?

[bbcmudtruck]

My Clymer arrived last night, and the wiring diagram helped a ton. It was a lot easier than I remember.

 

Next up, removing the key! What's the best way?

 

 

Take the key off and wire the two wires together. Then take your on/off/light switch off. There is a plug that will help you do that. You will either need to cut the plug off the on/off switch and wire your tether to it, or cut all of that shit out of there and wire your tether directly to it closer to the cdi. Depends on if you want to run lights or the possibility of putting all the stock stuff back on.

[Pat the one the only]

You have to determine if the tether switch is open or closed when the cord is removed. If it is open with the cord removed then it will replace the Key Switch. If it is closed with the cord removed then it will replace the Off/Run Switch. The 2 wires going to the Key Switch have to be connected to make the bike run, The one wire going to the Off/Run Switch(all the other wires going to the left side of the bars are for the headlights or the PB rev limiter if it is a 97 or newer) needs to be an open circuit for the bike to run, and it needs to be shorted to ground to kill the bike. Hope this helps.

 

huh, i didnt know banshees had rev limiters in them, did they take away any peformance? my bike has a ricks hot shot cdi box, and they previous owner said it was a 93, but im not so sure, would mine have one?

[No Limit Powersports]

The tors system has a rev limiter built in to it. Other than that its just the capability of the motor and pipe. To un hook the key hook the red/black wire to ground. To un-hook the kill switch just unplug it. The way we wire up all of our tethers is one wire to ground one to the hot side of the coil. This will effectively ground out the coil when it is pulled.

[bansheesandrider]

The tors system has a rev limiter built in to it. Other than that its just the capability of the motor and pipe. To un hook the key hook the red/black wire to ground. To un-hook the kill switch just unplug it. The way we wire up all of our tethers is one wire to ground one to the hot side of the coil. This will effectively ground out the coil when it is pulled.

No, it is not part of ther TORS system. The TORS system has it's own control box and the rev limiter is built into the CDI box on 97 and newer bike only. All years of Banshees came with the TORS systen, but only 97 and newer bike have the rev limiter connected to the park brake.If you look at the wiring diagrams for the different years and trace where the wires go, you will see this. Also, hooking up the tether to the coil so it shorts it can lead to a damaged CDI box. It should be connected to the wire that went to the Off/Run Switch and short to ground there.

[shawn941]

The tors system has a rev limiter built in to it. Other than that its just the capability of the motor and pipe. To un hook the key hook the red/black wire to ground. To un-hook the kill switch just unplug it. The way we wire up all of our tethers is one wire to ground one to the hot side of the coil. This will effectively ground out the coil when it is pulled.

exactly how i did my pro design tether

[No Limit Powersports]

The tors system has a rev limiter built into it that is how it limits the motor when the tors is activated. This is why simply unhooking the tors control box will fix a limited motor from a faulty tors which is very common. The only way to 100% guarantee a grounded out motor is to ground the coil directly. In case of a CDI failure the motor could possibly not shut down with simply grounding out the wire threw the cdi. That is why we always ground out the coil to guarantee a good kill. I know what the instructions say that come with the kill switches but we have installed hundreds of tethers this way and not one cdi failure.

[DAL]

I cut the wires to the on/off switch, and wired the kill switch directly to the black/white wire. Where has everyone attached the ground wire?

 

I'll tackle the key tonight.

 

Also, as far as weatherproofing the areas where the wires are spliced, what's everyone's suggestion (tape, rubber sheathing, etc.)?

[RedStrapperRacing]

I used the same type of switch (Pro Design). I set mine up at first with all (3) Key, Kill switch & tether cord - then after

I replaced my handle bars decided to remove my key completely because of the stock key mount being in the way. So now I just have the

tether cord & kill switch on the handle bars. Easyday to wire it in.

[RedStrapperRacing]

I cut the wires to the on/off switch, and wired the kill switch directly to the black/white wire. Where has everyone attached the ground wire?

 

I'll tackle the key tonight.

 

Also, as far as weatherproofing the areas where the wires are spliced, what's everyone's suggestion (tape, rubber sheathing, etc.)?

I always use the heat shrink wrap made for protecting wires w/ a heat gun or lighter, etc....

[DAL]

I always use the heat shrink wrap made for protecting wires w/ a heat gun or lighter, etc....

 

Cool, thanks Red.

[bansheesandrider]

if there is a rev limiter where is it?

because my 00 banshee revved to over 10K on the dyno.

The rev limiter only works when the parking brake is set. It is there to keep you from riding the bike with the parking brake set. It is usually a green with yellow wire in the CDI box plug and if you want to remove it just cut it at the plug on the bike harness side, not the CDI box side of the plug. That will keep the wire from shorting to ground and limiting RPM.