DAL

I ran her for about 15 minutes this weekend, and bumping up the jetting appeared to have basically cured the overheating, it's just the low end bog that's persisting. I have three larger sized pilots on their way right now, which I'm fairly confident will cure the bogging. Will be sure to report back.

OK...so I bumped up to a 27.5 pilot and a 290 main, but the bog off idle seems like it's gotten worse. As mentioned in the first post, if I turn the airscrew in it seems to help a bit. I'm new to jetting, but it seems odd if the low-rpm bogging was initially caused by running too lean, but got worse after I go up a size. Am I still running too lean? Do I need to go up to a 30 pilot?

I contacted FF about their mount positioning a few months back, and since the mount is 2" further away from the frame, yes - your banshee will likely sit lower. From what I understand, you can use stock length shocks even as far out as +3 +1. Unless you go to long travel a-arms, stock length will suffice. No idea about the YFZ shocks.

I run Pro Circuits and ride almost exclusively woods and MX. I noticed a big difference after replacing the stockers.

I've been running Floats for about a year now, and I'm very happy with them. I ride about 80% trails/20% motocross, and I really like the ability to increase stiffness on the fly. Like Matt mentioned, I have noticed a difference in springrate going from cool morning to hot afternoon temperatures (or vice-versa), but it's an easy fix (add or remove air as needed). I haven't run any aftermarket coilover shocks, so I can't really compare, though when I was researching which shocks to buy I couldn't find any other manufacturers that offered this much adjustability at that price point.

Awesome - thanks for the tips. I'll start with the jetting, and work my way around if that doesn't solve the issue.

Could be. I understand power = heat, but she's running way too hot, way too quickly (whatever the original temp may have been). If I don't shut her down after less than 5 minutes, she'd run well over 230. After searching around, I came across Vito's jets - are these good quality? Any other recommendations?

Awesome. Do you guys suggest buying a full kit (includes mains/pilots), or just buying the parts individually? Any brands you recommend for either? What's the difference between stage 1, 2, and 3 kits?

Appreciate it!

Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm at sea level.

I just advanced my timing 4 degrees, and immediately noticed the engine was running quite a bit hotter. I picked up a radiator cap temp gauge, which shows I'm running in the high 180's/low 190's at idle, which quickly increases to the low 200's after a quick pass or two (2-3 minutes). I checked my impeller (looks great), drained the coolant and added engine ice, which helped a little bit (about 5 degrees). I never actually measured the engine temp prior to advancing the timing, but would guess I was running in the 160's. I did a carb rebuild soon after buying the Banshee with stock settings, air screw two turns out. She idles fine, but now when I blip the throttle, there is definitely some bogging in the first 1/4 throttle. When I turned the airscrew 1/2 turn back in (clockwise), it got rid of the bog, but caused my idle temp to quickly hit 215 before I shut her off. I would like to dial my carbs in before addressing additional cooling issues like a cool head and new impeller. I just need a starting point suggestion (mains, pilots, needle position, etc), and can tweak from there. Here are my engine mods: Bored .020 over Pro Circuit pipes Airbox lid w/holes and K&N filter +4 timing Premix 32:1 Thanks guys.

They're definitely not cheap, but just like anything else, you get what you pay for. They're worth every penny IMO.

This will be the next thing I do. Great idea!

x2 - I have the Fuel with Sol X lenses. I've ridden in everything from bright, glaring sun to overcast conditions, and visibility always remains perfect. They also do a fantastic job of keeping out dust, and are very breathable (considering it reaches 110 degrees here in the summer).

Thanks Matt - appreciate the clarification. I'll be in contact with you shortly.

I'm building a "budget" (weekend warrior type stuff) MX Banshee, and when searching the threads found differing opinions regarding purchasing a YFZ450 rear shock and having it rebuilt to fit the Banshee (including MattSCESC's thread about shortening). Some people seem to think it's a good idea, while others suggest just having the stock Banshee shock rebuilt. Can someone please clarify which is better? Since every penny can be used somewhere else for my build, if I don't have to spend the extra $80-$100 (or more) to purchase a used YFZ shock, just rebuilding the Banshee one seems much more budget-friendly, especially if I can get the same (or very close) performance.

Oooohhhh, we have a winner! Thanks for the suggestions guys...

...it probably is. Based on the price I'm a little scared to even test it out, but thought I'd ask. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Banshee-Blaster-Raptor-4-adjustable-axle-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f096898cfQQitemZ270740789455QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

What would you rate the condition as? Any cracks/welds? How old is it? Does it come with all necessary hardware to mount and ride? $200 shipped?

I had to buy an aftermarket to stop it. It still swings out a tiny bit every now and then, but at least there's no more rattling.

Awesome, thanks. Both front and rear?

I've searched the forum, but can only locate proper tire sizes for MX. I know a lot depends on gearing, track conditions, etc., but can anyone recommend good all-around front/rear wheel sizes? I know tire size is important, but is wheel size equally important?

Anyone know if you can use an existing ASV shorty lever with the Streamline perch?

Holy crap, that's one HELL of a deal.