lobo Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 ok lets start off saying hi everyone. i had a new crank put in my banshee because mine went south on me the clutch was working fine when it was taking apart but when we put it back together when you pull in the clutch it still wants to roll if you rev up the motor you can acually spin the tires now it is adjusted right the ball bearing is fine and the clutch plates and fibers only have about a hour of time on them the thrust washers are in the right places the basket is not grooved only thing i can see is there is play in the shaft that the basket is on is that normal ohh ya and im running mtl 80wt fluid plz help my buddy is a professional bike mech and it has him stumped but he is a suzuki guy not a banshee guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 Welcome to BHQ !! Let me think ,bbl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Sounds like you have parts missing,mainly periods question marks commas and exclamation points. i have no idea what you are trying to say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddyfresh Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 The clutch basket shouldn't move in and out if that's what your trying to say. Look online or get a clymers make sure you put all the washers and such in place. Sounds like you may have missed one. Haven't ha mine apart in a while but I think there is one behind and in front of basket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 If that oil is truly an 80wt oil, then that is your problem. 80wt oil for ATVs or motorcycles is meant to be used in hypoid gearboxes or shaft drives. I highly recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil. I have been using it for over 16 years and have never had a tranny or clutch problem with, not even a welded clutch ball and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobo Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 If that oil is truly an 80wt oil, then that is your problem. 80wt oil for ATVs or motorcycles is meant to be used in hypoid gearboxes or shaft drives. I highly recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil. I have been using it for over 16 years and have never had a tranny or clutch problem with, not even a welded clutch ball and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes. the oil is what a guy i know that used to drag banshees uses in his he swears by it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobo Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 (edited) The clutch basket shouldn't move in and out if that's what your trying to say. Look online or get a clymers make sure you put all the washers and such in place. Sounds like you may have missed one. Haven't ha mine apart in a while but I think there is one behind and in front of basket. already checked out he manual every thing is in the right place Edited July 13, 2010 by lobo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 A mechanic is a mechanic , he specializes in Sukis. Go back through everything parts wise ,adjustment wise. Follow the manual to the letter. Were the tabs on plates clocked 90* from preveous? Pressure plate installed per manual , line up arrows or something ,don't remember exactly right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 If that oil is truly an 80wt oil, then that is your problem. 80wt oil for ATVs or motorcycles is meant to be used in hypoid gearboxes or shaft drives. I highly recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil. I have been using it for over 16 years and have never had a tranny or clutch problem with, not even a welded clutch ball and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of my bikes. X2 on the oil, normal 30 wt engine oil, ATF or Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil as previously suggested the 80wt is too heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hercalmighty Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 I have to disagree with you guys saying the 80w is causing his problems. I have been using Golden Spectro 80w gear oil in all my 2strokes for 19 years. Have never had any clutch issues. After racing MX and harescrambles every weekend for 3 years my clutch was still in factory specs. There is something wrong some where in the assemblely. When you pull in the clutch lever is the pressure plate moving? If the whole basket is moving instead of just the pressure plate then there is something wrong there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 ok lets start off saying hi everyone. i had a new crank put in my banshee because mine went south on me the clutch was working fine when it was taking apart but when we put it back together when you pull in the clutch it still wants to roll if you rev up the motor you can acually spin the tires now it is adjusted right the ball bearing is fine and the clutch plates and fibers only have about a hour of time on them the thrust washers are in the right places the basket is not grooved only thing i can see is there is play in the shaft that the basket is on is that normal ohh ya and im running mtl 80wt fluid plz help my buddy is a professional bike mech and it has him stumped but he is a suzuki guy not a banshee guy Okay we've got mixed opinions on the 80wt oil you're using and you're sure everything is put back together... The banshee clutch is a wet cluch and if you had the clutch apart for a while or installed new plates it might just be that they are still dry and sticking together. I ran into this same problem when I tore mine down, didn't move anything with the clutch but when I put it back together it wanted to creep forward. Took it for a ride and everything was dandy. After sitting a day or two if I crank mine in gear it will try to creep forward when cranking it's apparently normalish. So if you're sitting on the bike, crank it in neutral, let it warm up a minute, pull in the cluctch and shift it into gear does it lurch forward and stall or does it take off unstoppable by the clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lobo Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 (edited) Okay we've got mixed opinions on the 80wt oil you're using and you're sure everything is put back together... The banshee clutch is a wet cluch and if you had the clutch apart for a while or installed new plates it might just be that they are still dry and sticking together. I ran into this same problem when I tore mine down, didn't move anything with the clutch but when I put it back together it wanted to creep forward. Took it for a ride and everything was dandy. After sitting a day or two if I crank mine in gear it will try to creep forward when cranking it's apparently normalish. So if you're sitting on the bike, crank it in neutral, let it warm up a minute, pull in the cluctch and shift it into gear does it lurch forward and stall or does it take off unstoppable by the clutch? well it will stall. i took the hole clutch back apart again took it down to the shaft that the clutch basket sits on noticed that. that shaft has play so we are going to replace bearings and reinstall every thing in a couple days. as of the oil my clutch was working fine when the motor was tore apart and running same oil did notice tho that one of the steel plates have a burn mark on it so thinking a steal got bent while it was apart. an as the clutch cable i have the magura hydralic on there Edited July 13, 2010 by lobo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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