drag+6blaster Posted June 22, 2010 Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 banshee pulling the front wheels with rear strut. Not bad. not PERFECT. if i fabbed up a new longer rear strut would this help. SHEE leaves hard but at the same time SHEE pulling the front tires, so before the end of 1ST got to back out of it and go to 2nd. Question is will a lil longer rear strut put the bike at an angle so as to shift the center of gravity forward, so i would not have to early shift . Stock bore, stock stroke, cool head (unknown dome size), v3-reeds, bills full exhaust ,stock gearing ,stock tires , non ported, 36pwk's , 220 rider, full strutted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag+6blaster Posted June 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2010 anyone Please?? tring to break into 7's without a wheelie bar ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag+6blaster Posted June 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) anyone Please?? tring to break into 7's without a wheelie bar ?? no help for a newbie, it's been about a week and no replies? Forum vet's step in anytime. Edited June 26, 2010 by drag+6blaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 no help for a newbie, it's been about a week and no replies? Forum vet's step in anytime. This is a general statement and many other factors play a part. The rear strut needs to be adjustable and the bike needs to be low. The angle of the swingarm plays a big factor on how the quad reacts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkeypuncher Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 how long is your swing arm? you should be able to run faster times if you learn to take off in second gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockbeast Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 sounds like you are doing away with the shocks when you say strut.......the outher guys are talking about an adjustable strut for the linkage when still running a shock please clarify this and then it will be easier to help if you are running solid and no shocks you will be faster with a shock setup with your motor mods IMO I dont think a close to stock bike needs a solid strut no shock setup http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=170505648843 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-WARRIOR-REAR-4-5-LOWERING-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27b2edbacbQQitemZ170505648843QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories that is the lowering strut for the linkage to run a shock and its adjustable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 how long is your swing arm? you should be able to run faster times if you learn to take off in second gear. I'm assuming he's running 1/8 mile asphalt with wanting to break into the 7s. If he's, taking off in 2nd gear would end up with a broken gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 if you are running solid and no shocks you will be faster with a shock setup with your motor mods IMO I dont think a close to stock bike needs a solid strut no shock setup On asphalt you will be quicker with solid struts. That's speaking from experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockbeast Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 ya leave the struts if on asphalt how did you strut the rear??? did you do away with the linkage and go from frame to swinger with a strut??? if so then shorter on the strut which wold be lower would keep the front down but you would have to lower the front also when I ran mine on asphalt I lowered it real low with the strut in the linkage in the rear and in the front I used 300ex works shocks. Then I could adjust the strut bar to keep it down but that was with the shock and linkage and adjustable strut for the linkage. and used flat track tires so basically I would say lower the whole thing with your solid struts if thats what you are running.....lower it untill the a arms and swinger are level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag+6blaster Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) ya leave the struts if on asphalt how did you strut the rear??? did you do away with the linkage and go from frame to swinger with a strut??? if so then shorter on the strut which wold be lower would keep the front down but you would have to lower the front also when I ran mine on asphalt I lowered it real low with the strut in the linkage in the rear and in the front I used 300ex works shocks. Then I could adjust the strut bar to keep it down but that was with the shock and linkage and adjustable strut for the linkage. and used flat track tires so basically I would say lower the whole thing with your solid struts if thats what you are running.....lower it untill the a arms and swinger are level ok great now your close. i scanned through and picked up some things from this site. the a-arms are level (straight across), or even with the ground the front seems ok, its pretty low. for the rear we removed the linkage and the lowing block (alum block that loweres the rear some) so the strut connets straight to the shock mount and the swinger. looking into skinnies drag wheels on the front,(only way to get the front lower), ......... Before removing the shock and linkage it ran ok but was very unpredictible to launch sometimes it wheely, sometimes the shock would give a lil and it launch ok , sometimes it squat hard and leave sluggish. the solid strut seems better than the shock, from a rider;s view , one less thing to think about. and yes its 1/8 asphault track. thanks for the help so far. Edited June 27, 2010 by drag+6blaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaMotorsports Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 you need adjustable struts all the way around. the ones i build for all my (and my customers) bikes have rod ends in them so we can adjust them +- 1.5 inches, so we can get it dialed in to what we want.you should be able to get 1.35-1.40 60' on a banshee with those mods if you can launch it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag+6blaster Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 you need adjustable struts all the way around. the ones i build for all my (and my customers) bikes have rod ends in them so we can adjust them +- 1.5 inches, so we can get it dialed in to what we want.you should be able to get 1.35-1.40 60' on a banshee with those mods if you can launch it right seen them on ebay. thinking about getting a set. looked back at my times slips it's average 1.8 &.1.9 60ft times with the strut still looking for the slips with the rear shock on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drag+6blaster Posted June 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 seen them on ebay. thinking about getting a set. looked back at my times slips it's average 1.8 &.1.9 60ft times with the rear shock on it was a best of 1.7 average 1.8 but not consistant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaMotorsports Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 whats the price on em where you are lookin? be sure to hit me up before you buy some. i can usually beat the price of most companies, and my struts usually weight around 1.5 lbs complete, ive seen others as much as 8lbs each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BaMotorsports Posted June 28, 2010 Report Share Posted June 28, 2010 do you have a stock swingarm? if so id def go with a longer one first. i got a stock one extended to a +10 thats in good shape.i could make ya a deal on struts and the swinger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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