stroking Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 i got someone that wants to go from his cheetah 68mm to a supercub 72mm he ask me what the difference is in power,and well thats what i would like to know as welll?? is it worth it 4mill crank under it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DUMBASS Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 i got someone that wants to go from his cheetah 68mm to a supercub 72mm he ask me what the difference is in power,and well thats what i would like to know as welll?? is it worth it 4mill crank under it. ....well 421 cub on alcohol...lookin around 105-110hp.........supercub 472...lookin around 7 hp more. give or take. plus more torque. gonna have to bore the top case. 100 bucks...get pistons about 300 bucks..supercub head. about 350 bucks. and cyls. 800 or 850. but yes its noticable difference from a 68mm cub to a 72mm cub. if hes doing just racing. it would be worth it...if its a duner bike. i wouldnt ....jus my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 9, 2010 Report Share Posted June 9, 2010 This is just me... Before I went with a 72 super cub 4 mil I would go with a 10 mil cub, 68 bore. Since he's coming from a Cheetah cylinder, he's going to have to buy a head anyways. The crank is the killer...thought. Used, 400 or so, new, under 700. Everything else is more common and cheaper, including domes, pistons...etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 i found a brandnew supercub cylinder and pistons for $1299 is that a good deal ? all i'd need is a head right,or do i have to get different reeds and carb boots ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 This is just me... Before I went with a 72 super cub 4 mil I would go with a 10 mil cub, 68 bore. Since he's coming from a Cheetah cylinder, he's going to have to buy a head anyways. The crank is the killer...thought. Used, 400 or so, new, under 700. Everything else is more common and cheaper, including domes, pistons...etc. Dave, Where area you gettin 10 mil cranks for <$700 new?? What kind? I'd also say that that it's not worth it to go to super cub. What about 4 mil DM? Still case boring and machining, but much more power than a super cub. Do the cheetah heads fit the DM? I heard the "newer" Cheetahs and DMs shared the same head. Don't know for sure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Dave, Where area you gettin 10 mil cranks for <$700 new?? What kind? I'd also say that that it's not worth it to go to super cub. What about 4 mil DM? Still case boring and machining, but much more power than a super cub. Do the cheetah heads fit the DM? I heard the "newer" Cheetahs and DMs shared the same head. Don't know for sure... You can find it cheaper on ebay I think. http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11240&cat=200&page=1 It's the same crank I bought/am running this year. They really are quality products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 You can find it cheaper on ebay I think. http://www.vitosperf...&cat=200&page=1 It's the same crank I bought/am running this year. They really are quality products. i know somone that has one of those cranks,the weld broke and the crank started to come apart after maybe 4 passes down the track. took it apart because the tranny was bad,and found the crank problem,vito did fix it for free though. guess he should be glad he had a tranny problem or he could have had a totally wasted motor if that crank had come all the way apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 [quote name='J-Madd' date='10 June 2010 - 11:37 AM' timestamp='1276184234' post='1139424' What about 4 mil DM? DM's cost two much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 ....well 421 cub on alcohol...lookin around 105-110hp.........supercub 472...lookin around 7 hp more. give or take. plus more torque. gonna have to bore the top case. 100 bucks...get pistons about 300 bucks..supercub head. about 350 bucks. and cyls. 800 or 850. but yes its noticable difference from a 68mm cub to a 72mm cub. if hes doing just racing. it would be worth it...if its a duner bike. i wouldnt ....jus my opinion. more porting is also required on the supercubs.. you cant just run them as cast.. they'll actually make less power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 i know somone that has one of those cranks,the weld broke and the crank started to come apart after maybe 4 passes down the track. took it apart because the tranny was bad,and found the crank problem,vito did fix it for free though. guess he should be glad he had a tranny problem or he could have had a totally wasted motor if that crank had come all the way apart. Actually, the weld on them from the factory isn't bad. However...the first thing I do is have my buddy run TIG a nice bead all the way around the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 i know somone that has one of those cranks,the weld broke and the crank started to come apart after maybe 4 passes down the track. took it apart because the tranny was bad,and found the crank problem,vito did fix it for free though. guess he should be glad he had a tranny problem or he could have had a totally wasted motor if that crank had come all the way apart. You ask enough people and you'll find that problem with Crankworks, Twister, and the like. Stuff like that happens, and detonation can certainly take a good crank and turn it into crap. So it isn't always the cranks fault. I agree. I wouldn't go from a cheetah to a supercub. Your next step up would be a DM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 well,do there sell a offset piston or spacerplate that would allow me to run a 10mil crank under the 4mil cub cylinders ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted June 12, 2010 Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 You ask enough people and you'll find that problem with Crankworks, Twister, and the like. Stuff like that happens, and detonation can certainly take a good crank and turn it into crap. So it isn't always the cranks fault. I agree. I wouldn't go from a cheetah to a supercub. Your next step up would be a DM. I agree with this whole post. ALL cranks will eventually fail. As far as I am concerned there are none that are leaps and bounds above the others. My big name brand crank that I ran in my 10mm cub failed twice. Tore all kinds of shit up both times. Both times the weak link. I have seen several super cubs in action and have not been impressed as of yet. for the extra cost i dont see them being worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 12, 2010 Report Share Posted June 12, 2010 well,do there sell a offset piston or spacerplate that would allow me to run a 10mil crank under the 4mil cub cylinders ? IMO...sell the 4 mil and get a properly cast 10 mil. You would have to open the porting way up to work right with the 10 mil crank. Before aftermarket cylinders were involved and readily available, you could run a spacer plate or cut the head/domes to run the piston up in the head. Now a days, it's more than just piston clearance, it's port timing, etc., and a 10 mil cast cylinder would be a better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laydown Posted June 25, 2010 Report Share Posted June 25, 2010 IMO...sell the 4 mil and get a properly cast 10 mil. You would have to open the porting way up to work right with the 10 mil crank. Before aftermarket cylinders were involved and readily available, you could run a spacer plate or cut the head/domes to run the piston up in the head. Now a days, it's more than just piston clearance, it's port timing, etc., and a 10 mil cast cylinder would be a better choice. If i was you or that guy i would sell the 4mm cub and built a 14mm super cub you could keep the same reeds all you need is a head and big bore pipes trench the cases to a 14 and for the 72mm sleeve to fit and you got your self a bad ass engine . 4mm are for little kids . and good luck with putting that 10 in a 4mm cub that is truly impossible because to put a 5 in a 4mm cub you need to have the cub on ported and go down instead of up. don't mess up the cub and sell it, trust me is not going to work just trying to help you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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