BigMatt Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 All right I know installing a new chain cant be that hard looks simple, But I know tension is important, How tight should this chain be? is there any tricks I should know about? what are things to look out for? I got new rollers sliders and a chain so I'm waiting to install them, I just had a buddy install his and the chain was not tight enough or to tight and it came off cracking the engine case so figured I ask away! thanks, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9banshee6 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 All right I know installing a new chain cant be that hard looks simple, But I know tension is important, How tight should this chain be? is there any tricks I should know about? what are things to look out for? I got new rollers sliders and a chain so I'm waiting to install them, I just had a buddy install his and the chain was not tight enough or to tight and it came off cracking the engine case so figured I ask away! thanks, Matt yup that's what happened to me my chain came off. Just dont over tight it or leave it too lose also make sure the lock on the chain is well put together cause then your chain will snap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMatt Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 yup that's what happened to me my chain came off. Just dont over tight it or leave it too lose also make sure the lock on the chain is well put together cause then your chain will snap How tight or how lose should it be? I dont want to gage it based on the chain that is on there now because a tech did'nt put it on, it was the owner before me, also is a case saver a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodie Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 you want about an inch of play total up and down. to have the best results if you are by yourself pull down on your grab bar this will add weight and compress the shock which will tighten the chain. and then set you adjusters and all that good stuff to where you have 1 inch of play. If you got a buddy and he is about the same weight as you have him sit on the bike while you do the chain. this way when you are sitting on it the chain will have the right slack in it. but if you don't pull down or have someone sit on it your chain it might not be where it should with your weight accommodating for the rest of the slack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodneya Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 You should consider putting on new sprockets with a new chain. Old sprockets will ruin a new chain fast. To check tension, sit on the quad and move the chain up and down between the sprockets. About 3/4 to an inch movement is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMatt Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 You should consider putting on new sprockets with a new chain. Old sprockets will ruin a new chain fast. To check tension, sit on the quad and move the chain up and down between the sprockets. About 3/4 to an inch movement is good. funny you said that, I just bought new sprockets front and rear, im running a 12 up front and a 46 in the rear, I mostly trail ride. but do you guys run case savers they sound like a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodneya Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Case savers do seem a good idea, but from what guys have posted on here, the billet ones can cometimes cause more damage if the chain lets go. The TM design plastic one seems to be the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMatt Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Case savers do seem a good idea, but from what guys have posted on here, the billet ones can cometimes cause more damage if the chain lets go. The TM design plastic one seems to be the best. ya I heard the same thing I was looking into a plastic one but they cost more than the damn billet ones, my buddy had one and said if he did not have a billet case save he mite not have cracked his case, but the plastic one's are a bit more forgiving i'll look a little online for one thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.J. Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Like the others said, get your ass on the grab bar and lean down to feel how much play. You can use a billet saver if you run a 15 t front, because there isn't enough space between the saver and the sprocket for the chain to bunch up, I wouldn't run a billet with a 12 t though. Are you going to use a master link or peen over the pins on the joining link? Make sure the pins are properly peened over if no master link. You might find that the crappy stock chain adjustment set-up will leave the chain either too tight or too slack, the chain adjustment slots can be ground longer to give more adjustment. The chain will stretch a bit after the 1st few runs so keep this in mind when adjusting or removing links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMatt Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) Like the others said, get your ass on the grab bar and lean down to feel how much play. You can use a billet saver if you run a 15 t front, because there isn't enough space between the saver and the sprocket for the chain to bunch up, I wouldn't run a billet with a 12 t though. Are you going to use a master link or peen over the pins on the joining link? Make sure the pins are properly peened over if no master link. You might find that the crappy stock chain adjustment set-up will leave the chain either too tight or too slack, the chain adjustment slots can be ground longer to give more adjustment. The chain will stretch a bit after the 1st few runs so keep this in mind when adjusting or removing links. I'm using a master link setup, I'm up north rate now so when I get home l'll take a look at how to grind them, With out the bike in front of me its tuff to picture what your talking about, I thought about getting on the bike a strapping around the grab bar to the axle while I was on it this way its set to my sag when I get off. Also do you think a plastic case saver is a good Idea with a 12t, and for the little clip that pops over the master link, I have heard of guys super gluing them on and to take them off you just heat them up. Doe's this work? thanks for all you r help guy! Edited February 12, 2010 by BigMatt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 i absolutely would not run a billet case saver at all. run a plastic one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tundish2800 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 here is a link for the one i have it's plastic http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mod-Quad-Yamaha-Banshee-350-BLACK-case-saver-YFZ350_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439cab5ef7QQitemZ290391285495QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1182 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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