mxjim471 Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I have my cases split looking for a crank (even though I don't see anything wrong). Then a thought crossed my mind, should I put a stroker crank in? If I do, what other mods do I have to do (spacer plate, different pistons etc.) I just put a new top end in thinking that was the problem but it wasnt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 You can do it many different ways, my preferred method is to run a long rod crank with 795 series wiseco's and a cut head/cool head with stroker domes and no spacer plate. It is best to have it ported to match the increased stroke. You will only need to run the 795 pistons if it is a long rod(115mm) crank. The short rod strokers use standard 513 series banshee pistons. The cut head or stroker domes are an alternative to running the spacer plate and allow more flexibiltiy for porting and better reliability than the leak prone spacers. If you have any questions feel free to PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misssppelllleddd Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I suggest you talk to slobanshee06 about getting your port work done too! He is really good at it! So here is my .02........STROKE IT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woolfman Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I rebuilt mine last year and didn't go with the stroker. Now I wish I spent a few extra bucks and gone with it I hate being a tight ass. Go Stroker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duneman101 Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I rebuilt mine last year and didn't go with the stroker. Now I wish I spent a few extra bucks and gone with it I hate being a tight ass. Go Stroker! well it's not exactly a few extra bucks. you can get a stock stroke crank pistons and seals and gaskets for like 500ish probably less. won't need new carbs or anything else to keep it running well you go 4 mil you are looking at around 730 for the crank pistons cool head domes, then another 300 for a port to match the stroke, then your stock carbs will maybe sufice, but you'll probably want bigger... so thats like 1300 bones right there. make sure you can afford it before you jump into the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 I just built a stroker set up. Ended up needing a lockup do to so much power. So that added to the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swrbansheeboy Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 well it's not exactly a few extra bucks. you can get a stock stroke crank pistons and seals and gaskets for like 500ish probably less. won't need new carbs or anything else to keep it running well you go 4 mil you are looking at around 730 for the crank pistons cool head domes, then another 300 for a port to match the stroke, then your stock carbs will maybe sufice, but you'll probably want bigger... so thats like 1300 bones right there. make sure you can afford it before you jump into the water. agreed, i'd say stroke it but theres alot more to it then dropping another 2 bills on a crank... do the math and decide if your wallet can handle the hit, thats why i still run stock stroke 350's...lol if i ever do get the money to waste i'm going all twister though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bode1 Posted May 2, 2009 Report Share Posted May 2, 2009 I just did mine over the winter, I'm happy with it, but now I wish I got the 4mil, seems like you always want to be a little bit faster. To do it now I would have to rebuy everythng I just bought plus the crank and the cut domes, plus re-port if my cylinders would even work, so I'd probally need new juggs too. I just wish I did it all at once, since i was already spending that money and the crank was only $430 more As far as new Carbs, pipes, etc, you're always gonna be tinkering with it anyway, that's the stuff that's easy to add later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxjim471 Posted May 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I just did mine over the winter, I'm happy with it, but now I wish I got the 4mil, seems like you always want to be a little bit faster. To do it now I would have to rebuy everythng I just bought plus the crank and the cut domes, plus re-port if my cylinders would even work, so I'd probally need new juggs too. I just wish I did it all at once, since i was already spending that money and the crank was only $430 more As far as new Carbs, pipes, etc, you're always gonna be tinkering with it anyway, that's the stuff that's easy to add later. Money is always an issue with the toys unfortunately. I thought all strokers were long rod. I just bought new Wisecos and would rather not have to buy new. What is a short rod stroker and where can I get such a crank assly? everything I've found is long rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 (edited) Im building a 4mil now. Unless you really want to dump some cash out i wouldnt do it. I got almost 2k into mine so far. Edited May 3, 2009 by Burt Reynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 I guess I dont see the extra expence of building a 4 mill over a stock stroke other than the domes and the cost of the crank. Everything that people claim that you are going to have to upgrade for a 4 mill hold true for a stock stroke machine too. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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