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Posted

Lets see now:

We now know he doesnt need the TORS removal kit.

 

But not buying the carb gaskets...I lost a quad due to a fire in Arizona near Yuma due to gas spilling out of the carb bowls when it ignited.

Cheap insurance I say.

 

Fuel filter....Hmmm $1.50 each.....pretty cheap i say. Even could put one extra in your tool bag.

(pretty cheap)

 

Carb sync tool.....No you dont really need it unless you want reall accuracy adn the best settings for max vaccum. You can use just the visual mechanical method if you are not too concerned about being anal retinive. it may be hardly noticeable.

So there is $35.00 saved.

 

Carb spray, yes you could do it with one can.

 

New plugs....Maybe, you could just clean the old ones.

 

A good compression test with a good tester sure seems needed at this point.

 

Again. I always remove the airbox to do the throttle cable adjustment as I can see the sliders moving up and down alot easier than trying to see the dimple through the windows on the carb sides.

 

A clymer manual, I say yes; you can download one .....but(I personally dont have a computer in my garage, so I anm not about to keep walking down to the basement to get back on the computer 100 times checking proceedures or waste money on ink and paper trying to print it all out.) $35.00 is about the money output for the manal.

 

 

So far we have output out of pocket for : about $38.50 or so plus what ever the gaskets in the carbs (float bowls )cost.

Hell thats not too bad.

Note: if once you find that the compression has been accurately checked and find its still low as mentioned above, check the reeds while the carbs are off,

If they are ok then better plan on re-build on the top end.

 

You can do it for under $300.00 Id say very easily depending how much you can do yourself and what all tools you have available..

Hone as mentioned above, etc, etc, as stated by the others above.

 

good luck

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Posted

Im very mechanic freindly , been rebuilding cars for over 13 years . I will do another comp. test this evening and we can go from there .

 

Heres my most recnt project i got finished .

 

I turned this

 

102_5481.jpg

l_1b0f07603520701b0fe352d2c8cb1de8.jpg

l_c38152aea0a05da4bf497369814e7f42.jpg

 

Into this , took me 3 months ALL work done by yours truly

 

102_5586.jpg

CIMG0867-1.jpg

102_5519.jpg

Posted (edited)

I just REDID the compression test , the release valve on the tester was loose causing it to leak air , lol . Now i got 123-124 in the left cylinder and around 118-119 in the right cylinder . So now i should be good right ?

 

I need a new airbox anyway , the boots were good , but the filter assembly thing is gone and one of the rear tabs is broken off of the stock box . Any suggestions on a good upgraded airbox or do i need to get a new filter and go with it ?

 

Just got 2 cans of carburetor cleaner aswell so im going to get them good and cleaned up tonight and put them back on either tonight or in the morning sometime , that is if the gaskets dont fall apart first . Whats a good gasket set ? or would it pay me to just order a carb rebuild kit and get the gaskets with it ?

 

Thanks for the help so far guys .

Edited by 04srt4black
Posted

I need a new airbox anyway , the boots were good , but the filter assembly thing is gone and one of the rear tabs is broken off of the stock box . Any suggestions on a good upgraded airbox or do i need to get a new filter and go with it ?

 

 

 

I don't think the broken tab is a big issue, they make a cnc'ed adapter for the existing airbox to fit a K&N, $100 buys both. If your not going to be riding in water and mud you can get pods (filters directly to carbs) or run without the airbox lid.

Posted (edited)
Im very mechanic freindly , been rebuilding cars for over 13 years . I will do another comp. test this evening and we can go from there .

 

Heres my most recnt project i got finished .

 

I turned this

 

102_5481.jpg

l_1b0f07603520701b0fe352d2c8cb1de8.jpg

l_c38152aea0a05da4bf497369814e7f42.jpg

 

Into this , took me 3 months ALL work done by yours truly

 

102_5586.jpg

CIMG0867-1.jpg

102_5519.jpg

 

 

 

 

so, you painted the car.....dont notice much else different...?

 

just pissing with ya..

 

you will be miles ahead by starting with the carbs, quick, cheap and easy to fix, rebuild.

Edited by Overboost
Posted
I need a new airbox anyway , the boots were good , but the filter assembly thing is gone and one of the rear tabs is broken off of the stock box . Any suggestions on a good upgraded airbox or do i need to get a new filter and go with it ?

 

 

 

 

I don't think the broken tab is a big issue, they make a cnc'ed adapter for the existing airbox to fit a K&N, $100 buys both. If your not going to be riding in water and mud you can get pods (filters directly to carbs) or run without the airbox lid.

 

These pods your talking about , do they hook directly to the carbs? I dont plan on abusing it that much , im real anal about getting stuff done right and keep it that way .

 

Also anyone know i read on another post somewhere on here that there is a hose that connects the 2 carbs together like a choke ? what it that ? the only thing that linked mine together was the main feed line ?

 

Thanks again!

Posted
These pods your talking about , do they hook directly to the carbs? I dont plan on abusing it that much , im real anal about getting stuff done right and keep it that way .

 

Also anyone know i read on another post somewhere on here that there is a hose that connects the 2 carbs together like a choke ? what it that ? the only thing that linked mine together was the main feed line ?

 

Thanks again!

 

IDK how the pods connect, I don't run them myself but lots of others do.

 

That hose definitely needs to be there and it is real easy to have it drop off onto the cases if you don't know it's there. I've been there myself, and once you do it you never forget! It "works" the choke on the other carb. Won't run even close to right until that baby's connected.

Posted

As stated in one of your earlier posts you said you had to push chokes down rite,therefore you have after market carbs on there,take a picture of the carbs and post them we can give you more guidence then,my guess is you have after market carbs with no choke tube independant chokes correct me if I read something wrong

Posted (edited)
As stated in one of your earlier posts you said you had to push chokes down rite,therefore you have after market carbs on there,take a picture of the carbs and post them we can give you more guidence then,my guess is you have after market carbs with no choke tube independant chokes correct me if I read something wrong

 

They are mikuni corp 's ? They both look identical and they both have push down chokes , and they were NOT linked together other than by the "T" in the fuel line .

 

Heres the pics of them , they were FILTHY ! im still cleaning one of them up . They were on the quad when we got it 10 years ago . Took the bottoms of them off and had a pretty good pile of gunk,dirt and debris .

 

EDIT I JUST MEASURED THE CARBS 28mm on one side and 40mm on the other side , which is stock *i think*

 

GEDC0005.jpg

GEDC0006.jpg

GEDC0007.jpg

GEDC0008.jpg

Edited by 04srt4black
Posted

Aftermarket carbs.

 

Also:

My next door neighbor kid(16) has the pod type K&N filters and 'they rubbed two holes in them" from vibration and caused muddy looking dirt to get in his carbs, man what a mess.

The filters were only 6 months old.

The dirt mixed with the oily gas and clogged them both up.

 

 

Id personally recommend an airbox of some type.

 

Aluminum boxes run $200.00 bones.

someone here has an extra stock airbox that you can put a large K & n filter on.

 

You can then drill extra air holes in the top and put in vents onto the air box lid for 6-9 dollars per 1/2 dozen vent openings to glue into the holes.

 

Just a thought.

 

R. Rollins sends..

Posted

those look like the zilla carbs...

 

did you ever check to get spark?

get them cleaned up, check the jets and re-install... should start up...

i would try 2 pull it and "pop" it into gear when you get everything back together...

 

and this guy r.rollings..... i would take everything he says with a grain of salt...

seems he taking all the advice he has read on this bored and posting it back to you.

 

Zach

Posted (edited)
Aftermarket carbs.

 

Also:

My next door neighbor kid(16) has the pod type K&N filters and 'they rubbed two holes in them" from vibration and caused muddy looking dirt to get in his carbs, man what a mess.

The filters were only 6 months old.

The dirt mixed with the oily gas and clogged them both up.

 

 

Id personally recommend an airbox of some type.

 

Aluminum boxes run $200.00 bones.

someone here has an extra stock airbox that you can put a large K & n filter on.

 

You can then drill extra air holes in the top and put in vents onto the air box lid for 6-9 dollars per 1/2 dozen vent openings to glue into the holes.

 

Just a thought.

 

R. Rollins sends..

 

 

dude, your next door neighbor? got punch him in the nuts for being a douche bag. sounds like he forgot to cut the to little round mounts off that the airbox slides on, they'll do that if dont cut them off...

 

 

also zach, if he doesnt have compression his bike will never run right. he'll never get it kicked started. even with clean carbs...=\

Edited by magz
Posted

I havent checked the spark yet , i will do that today before i reinstall the carbs and the fuel tank .

 

Magz i rechecked the compression last night and i was right at 125 and 120 , my relese valve on my compression tester was loose cuasing the air to leak i tightened it up and those were the results .

 

The carbs are real good and clean now , took me about an hour to get them both good and clean . so hopefully i can get it running tonight sometime , sux having to work til 5 , haha

 

Thanks for the help again !

Posted
I havent checked the spark yet , i will do that today before i reinstall the carbs and the fuel tank .

 

Magz i rechecked the compression last night and i was right at 125 and 120 , my relese valve on my compression tester was loose cuasing the air to leak i tightened it up and those were the results .

 

The carbs are real good and clean now , took me about an hour to get them both good and clean . so hopefully i can get it running tonight sometime , sux having to work til 5 , haha

 

Thanks for the help again !

 

 

well good, now that you've ruled out lack of compression. put those carbs back on and see what shee can do. i'd probably pick up a set of good looking spark plugs too. it can never hurt to pull the stator side cover off and look at the flywheel and re-set the pick up gap to make sure its correct.

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