Pincushion Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Got an 03 that isn't starting. Fresh rebuild (.020 Wiseco's), FMF fatties & silencers and K&N pods. Jetting 320's, 27.5's and stock needles in 3rd clip. The bike will not fire unless I pull the pods and cover the carb openings with my hands (Thanks to motor builder for discovering this starting technique!). So, if air flow is SERIOUSLY restricted then the motor will hit and fire. Also, as I cover the openings and kick my hands are getting doused with fuel. It's pulling fuel into the carbs, but I dont know how much fuel is making it to the cylinders. Or maybe there's too much fuel making it into the jugs!?!? Any input? All I can think is worn reeds, incorrect jets (as in they're not genuine Mikuni's) or carb float levels off. The carbs have been cleaned numerous times with carb cleaner and compressed air, so I'm seriously doubting a plugged circuit. Any other input? Quote
fastrthnu Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Got an 03 that isn't starting. Fresh rebuild (.020 Wiseco's), FMF fatties & silencers and K&N pods. Jetting 320's, 27.5's and stock needles in 3rd clip. The bike will not fire unless I pull the pods and cover the carb openings with my hands (Thanks to motor builder for discovering this starting technique!). So, if air flow is SERIOUSLY restricted then the motor will hit and fire. Also, as I cover the openings and kick my hands are getting doused with fuel. It's pulling fuel into the carbs, but I dont know how much fuel is making it to the cylinders. Or maybe there's too much fuel making it into the jugs!?!? Any input? All I can think is worn reeds, incorrect jets (as in they're not genuine Mikuni's) or carb float levels off. The carbs have been cleaned numerous times with carb cleaner and compressed air, so I'm seriously doubting a plugged circuit. Any other input? is the little crossover tube conecting your carbs together? Quote
BUILDER Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 Got an 03 that isn't starting. Fresh rebuild (.020 Wiseco's), FMF fatties & silencers and K&N pods. Jetting 320's, 27.5's and stock needles in 3rd clip. The bike will not fire unless I pull the pods and cover the carb openings with my hands (Thanks to motor builder for discovering this starting technique!). So, if air flow is SERIOUSLY restricted then the motor will hit and fire. Also, as I cover the openings and kick my hands are getting doused with fuel. It's pulling fuel into the carbs, but I dont know how much fuel is making it to the cylinders. Or maybe there's too much fuel making it into the jugs!?!? Any input? All I can think is worn reeds, incorrect jets (as in they're not genuine Mikuni's) or carb float levels off. The carbs have been cleaned numerous times with carb cleaner and compressed air, so I'm seriously doubting a plugged circuit. Any other input? Just a little more info. LOL sorry Brandon not jacking your thread. It will start warm it is only cold that it wont start unless you choke it out with your hand. Once he has it started and warmed up it starts like a dream and runs awsome. I rode with him all weekend and Florence and we had a blast. LOL we really had a blast watching his buddy go over the bars on his dirt bike :biggrin: Quote
Pincushion Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 The choke tube is in place and is not plugged. I removed the choke plunger and it looks and operates like I think it should. Like MB says... once warm it fires up 1st kick and runs great. It just will not fire when stone cold after sitting for more than an hour. My buddy not only went over the bars and lost all the oil in the motor, but he ALSO lost the AP diaphragm and cover from the carb during a late Saturday ride. We tried to start that SOB for an hour Sunday morning with no luck. We've all got a friend like that..... the type who should never own a motor vehicle :shoothead: Quote
blaster2006 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 (edited) funny. i recently got a banshee, i had problems close to what you had, at first when i got it used, it would randomly let more air in, then it would run good, then you can hear it taking in alot of air the ngood on and off etc. i did a few things, bought a new filter put in new gas at new premix. atm it runs much better but my problem now is very relative to yours. the next day when i start it, it takes 1 or 2 kicks with choke pulled FULLY, but when i hear it starting, i rev it to help it start off, and it keeps trying to turn off and when im revving it you can REALLY hear LOADS of air stuck in it, so very deep throaty revs, full of air,( im constantly revving it just after i kicked or it would die out from the massive amount of air). when it heats up the air flow is normal and it idles alone with no choke ofc and without me revving it. although even when its hot, RARELY does it randomly take in extra air for a max of 1 sec, and looses complete power, then re runs perfect. it mostly happens on low RPMS at 1st and 2nd gear, but very very rarely now, since i did a few adjustments. what i still did not try is cleaning carbs, and checking the reeds. later if its hot and i turn it off for 5 to 10 mins, if its still hot it fires up first kick easily, no doubt. just starting it, is killer, gotta keep revving it with the full choke pulled as you can hear it as if its running K&N pods, bored out to 68mm, piped and having 150 main jets, thats how it sounds. VERY very lean throaty deep air noise. then when warm it runs perfect other than the rare 1 sec occasions as mentioned above. just to let you know hehe, so whatever the problem is or if you find it out, let me know, cause ill try the same thing. oh and i forgot to mention that my blaster is 100% stock engine Edited January 20, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
ziegman Posted January 20, 2009 Report Posted January 20, 2009 are your slides in backwards? I had similar results as yours, that was the problem. Quote
Pincushion Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Posted January 20, 2009 are your slides in backwards? I had similar results as yours, that was the problem. Nope. They're in with the lower indent facing the rear. Its something carb/intake related, but I just cannot figure out what. Quote
AKheathen Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 Nope. They're in with the lower indent facing the rear. Its something carb/intake related, but I just cannot figure out what. what other mods done with the rebuild? also, if its been a whie since you rode it befor the rebuild, then it's probably alot colder, which needs more fuel. basically the symptoms say "lean" adjust the airscrews in sync till it runs the highest when the bike is hot, and in normal riddin temp, and if it's much more tahn 2 turns out, go leaner on the pilot, or less than 1, go richer. what size are your jetts? worn reeds or cracked cage rubber can cause similar issues too. Quote
Pincushion Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Posted January 21, 2009 The only other I have done was install idle screws. Should they be wrapped with teflon tape to seal better? I wonder if they're leaking air...... The issue is only during cold starts. Once its warm it runs perfect and fires 1st kick. Quote
regalrocket Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 Is the hole in the carb slides that is under the needle keeper plate covered? you shoud be able to see the hole threw the cable slot in the keeper. Other than that, its dirt somewhere, I would pull the carbs apart, clean them and use 60PSI of air to blow EVERY passage out. I had this same problem, after a good cleaning, it was fixed instantly. Before the cleaning, I could kick for an hour, and it wouldn't fire. Quote
Pincushion Posted January 21, 2009 Author Report Posted January 21, 2009 Is the hole in the carb slides that is under the needle keeper plate covered? you shoud be able to see the hole threw the cable slot in the keeper. Other than that, its dirt somewhere, I would pull the carbs apart, clean them and use 60PSI of air to blow EVERY passage out. I had this same problem, after a good cleaning, it was fixed instantly. Before the cleaning, I could kick for an hour, and it wouldn't fire. These are the holes that would be covered had I installed the keeper plate backwards, right? If so, then they are correct and I can see through them. Thanks for the input. Time for another carb cleaning session. I'm going to dismantle and clean those fuckers like never before Quote
87banshee350 Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 i had the same problem a week ago and the float bowls were on the wrong side, the one with the ball on the front of the carb has to go on the carb with the choke on it Quote
AKheathen Posted January 22, 2009 Report Posted January 22, 2009 The only other I have done was install idle screws. Should they be wrapped with teflon tape to seal better?I wonder if they're leaking air...... The issue is only during cold starts. Once its warm it runs perfect and fires 1st kick. the jam nuts seal it fine, and it's before the idle circut, so it shouldn't effect starting. what about the airscrews? Quote
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