info i would like to know

[jack350]

hey all.. i am plannin to buy a timing plate for my shee and would like to know exactly what it will do.. i think i have a rough idea

 

correct me if im wrong.. if u advance ur timing u will get more bottom end and lose top end?

 

I have noticed every1 advances there timing to +4 ..what will this achieve? and how does it work?

 

thats all for now i will post more questions for all of u to anwser later..

 

thanks alot

 

[jbooker82]

It gives it a stronger mid range punch. You wont notice any top end loss.

 

Most people advance it to +4 because they are also running a cool head or shaved head to up the compression.

 

150 psi of compression and +4 timing is about the limit for Pump Fuel

 

People running race fuel shoot for 180 psi of compression and +6-+7 deg of timing.

 

Wich plate are you going to get.

 

Cast Ricky stator plate for $35 or you can get a nice billit plate from Chariot Performance on ebay for 50. I would spend the extra cash and go for the billit plate.

 

josh

[Handyman]

Don't want to jack this post but I have a dumb question...I'm running 175 psi on my shee right now and it's at +4..what will the difference be noticed in the motor if I raised it to +7, +8?? I'm at 200 ft above sea level.

[jbooker82]

Don't want to jack this post but I have a dumb question...I'm running 175 psi on my shee right now and it's at +4..what will the difference be noticed in the motor if I raised it to +7, +8?? I'm at 200 ft above sea level.

 

It should just make a little stronger in the mid range. I dont know how much you will notice the gain since your already at +4

[rubberneck]

Handyman, be carefull with the timing. I was told to keep my timing on the conservative side +4-+5 because i am duning my bike. On a cub (which I assume would be similar to your cheetah) Jeff told me they love +7-+8 performance wise. However when duning you are using the power for much longer periods of time than all out drag racing. You need to be carefull not to get too much heat in the crown of the piston. If you decide to jack the timing up, make sure you pay attention and listen for deto. Not saying you cant/shouldn't, just make sure you go slow and pay attention to the motor.

[Handyman]

Handyman, be carefull with the timing. I was told to keep my timing on the conservative side +4-+5 because i am duning my bike. On a cub (which I assume would be similar to your cheetah) Jeff told me they love +7-+8 performance wise. However when duning you are using the power for much longer periods of time than all out drag racing. You need to be carefull not to get too much heat in the crown of the piston. If you decide to jack the timing up, make sure you pay attention and listen for deto. Not saying you cant/shouldn't, just make sure you go slow and pay attention to the motor.

 

yeah I do alot of general duning and drag race up the hill... I like the fact I can do both and not be limited to which i do..One day i will have a dedicated hillshooter

[jack350]

i dont have the coolhead yet and my head isnt shaved but if i advance it to +4 should i still see results?

 

i also have been looking to buy the plate from f.a.s.t .... i will look at the billit one thou

 

if i was to get the coolhead wat domes should i fit if i wanna stick to using pump fuel... im running t-5 pipes, pro foam filter, VF3

 

Reeds, 280 mains, stock pilots and at around 2000' feet

 

thanks guys for the info

 

jack.

 

[jack350]

i dont have the coolhead yet and my head isnt shaved but if i advance it to +4 should i still see results?

 

i also have been looking to buy the plate from f.a.s.t .... i will look at the billit one thou

 

if i was to get the coolhead wat domes should i fit if i wanna stick to using pump fuel... im running t-5 pipes, pro foam filter, VF3

 

Reeds, 280 mains, stock pilots and at around 2000' feet

 

thanks guys for the info

 

jack.

 

 

 

 

 

bumb

[AKheathen]

bumb

20's. and you will see results with +4

[jack350]

another question guys... would it be safer to use higher compression pistons (wiseco) than the stock ones if i was to buy the coolhead

 

with 20cc domes??? one last thing. wat is the purpose of welding your crank? wat actually gets welded?

 

thanks again guys

 

[J.J.]

another question guys... would it be safer to use higher compression pistons (wiseco) than the stock ones if i was to buy the coolhead

 

with 20cc domes??? one last thing. wat is the purpose of welding your crank? wat actually gets welded?

 

thanks again guys

 

Jack, G'day mate, that's a real clean looking bike you have there, I've always loved the old school yellow.

 

I have a Pro Design Stator Plate and IMO for up to +4 timing advance you can get by with just modifying the stock plate for free, do a search or take a look at BenBB's Electrical FAQ, Question 54.

 

The plate is hidden, so there is no purpose in putting the bling where the sun don't shine...

 

The crank is not a one piece design and is built up of pressed in sections. In high HP applications the crank is trued and welded as a safeguard against "slippage" of the interference fit sections of the crank.

Crank slip would lead to the two crank journals being out of phase with each other.

 

If the present compression is good and the motor has low hours on it then stick with the stock cast pistons, nothing wrong with the original Yamaha pistons and they can be used with 20~21cc domes. Once it's time to rebuild your top end, you can go with a set of Wiseco Pro Lites.

[jack350]

Jack, G'day mate, that's a real clean looking bike you have there, I've always loved the old school yellow.

 

I have a Pro Design Stator Plate and IMO for up to +4 timing advance you can get by with just modifying the stock plate for free, do a search or take a look at BenBB's Electrical FAQ, Question 54.

 

The plate is hidden, so there is no purpose in putting the bling where the sun don't shine...

 

The crank is not a one piece design and is built up of pressed in sections. In high HP applications the crank is trued and welded as a safeguard against "slippage" of the interference fit sections of the crank.

Crank slip would lead to the two crank journals being out of phase with each other.

 

If the present compression is good and the motor has low hours on it then stick with the stock cast pistons, nothing wrong with the original Yamaha pistons and they can be used with 20~21cc domes. Once it's time to rebuild your top end, you can go with a set of Wiseco Pro Lites.

 

 

thanks J.J i appreciate the post and picture. :biggrin:

 

if my compression is lower than 100 is it time for a top end rebuild (including pistons) or can i just re-ring

 

them.... i guess it will depend on the condition of my pistons ay?

[rubberneck]

thanks J.J i appreciate the post and picture. :biggrin:

 

if my compression is lower than 100 is it time for a top end rebuild (including pistons) or can i just re-ring

 

them.... i guess it will depend on the condition of my pistons ay?

 

 

This is just my opinion, and take that for what its worth, because back in the day i did re-ring a bike cause i didn't have any money. I wouldn't rering a banshee. I lost a skirt on a piston on one of my bikes. With the cost of pistons being very reasonable IMHO. Put a set of new pistons in it. If you break up a piston and wipe out a cylinder or it drops down in the bottom and ruins anything, you will spend way more in the long run.

[J.J.]

I fully agree with rubberneck,

 

If the compression has dropped that low at sea level, then it's time for a fresh top end, not just a hone and re-ring.

[jack350]

thanks alot guys... appreciate all the info..