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Breaking in a new ATV


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heya, i know its an old topic, but, well, as most of you know i was asking if i should buy a new or used shee, and i think im gonna go with a new one.

well, im sure you have all heard about the "break-in secrets" that riding it hard for break in is 10times better and better for the engine life.

 

 

cause on my blaster when i got it new, i rode it softly, and i dont think that was good...i cant tell why i dont think its good but.. i just dont think so, but anyway.

 

has anybody tried this? and does it apply for 2 strokes aswell? has anybody had experience, and knows for sure if its actually better to break in a 2 stroke by riding it hard?

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heya, i know its an old topic, but, well, as most of you know i was asking if i should buy a new or used shee, and i think im gonna go with a new one.

well, im sure you have all heard about the "break-in secrets" that riding it hard for break in is 10times better and better for the engine life.

 

 

cause on my blaster when i got it new, i rode it softly, and i dont think that was good...i cant tell why i dont think its good but.. i just dont think so, but anyway.

 

has anybody tried this? and does it apply for 2 strokes aswell? has anybody had experience, and knows for sure if its actually better to break in a 2 stroke by riding it hard?

 

ride it soft bro.. you gotta set the rings. no more than 1/2 throttle untill like 1-2hr of riding then go to 3/4 then rip on it bro

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If I remember right, the owners manual called for twenty hours. 1-10 no more than half throttle, 10-20 no more than three quarter throttle. That's a LONG time though, I think I just ran it easy without WOT for a few (4 or 5) tanks of fuel, then let 'er rip.

 

Of coarse, it's impossible not to get on it in short bursts every so often while breaking it in, just don't hold it for very long.

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If I remember right, the owners manual called for twenty hours. 1-10 no more than half throttle, 10-20 no more than three quarter throttle. That's a LONG time though, I think I just ran it easy without WOT for a few (4 or 5) tanks of fuel, then let 'er rip.

 

Of coarse, it's impossible not to get on it in short bursts every so often while breaking it in, just don't hold it for very long.

^ What he said. Follow the manual that will come with the bike. WHY? Because your warranty may depend on it.

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i break in my motors all the same ....... i am just getting into banshee's but have raced motocross for years and am into drag racing my camaro and have built quit a few small blocks and cr 250's. although not exactly the same but still fresh engines. i let them warm up to temp run them for 5 min at 1/4 throttle then cool then at 1/2 throttle for 5 min then let them cool down, drop the oil start it up and then go through the rpm range a few times after warmed up ride or drive like an adult for a half hour check fluids and then hammer it cuz if its going to blow its going to blow right then. lol might not be the best way ..... but its my way and i havent had a motor go sour yet.. just my 2 cents

Edited by mason07shee
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I have rebuilt plenty of chevy big blocks and small blocks as well as ford v-8's. I have broken them all in the same way, drive it like your gonna drive it. On a two-stroke that has the capability of spinning 10000 rpm's+, I would think high rpm's at break-in would be taxing like a mo-fo on the rings before they get a chance to seat.

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yeah the guys at the dealers are morons i buried my sportsman in the lake and snaped the front left drive axle right rear drive axle the rear brake caliper snapped in half tore up the front drive shaft u joint and every brake component broke, they replaced the resevoir and everything it was a mess! it took two 700 grizzlys burried in the sand pulling with there winches me spinning three wheels one was snapped and pulling with my winch and abunch of drift wood under it and when i took it in to get repaired they fixed it all for free lol it was great for me bad for polaris haha any moron would have known it was a fuck up not faulty parts but hey it looked like this. 2mzbk2q.jpg " not trying to hijak the thread just proving what loco said oh yeah and it only had 48km on it when it happened oh and it got worse after this pic was taken the more we pulled the further down it went in

Edited by mason07shee
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Do two or three heating /cooling cycles,Then take it for a spin ,You should bring into the power in every gear only 4 2-3 seconds.also make sure you let the bike slow down under its own power(decelleration).I usually do 5 gears of accelleration 5 gears decel so u break in both sides of the rings After one tank you will feel the bike running better Letter rip

If its bone stock (yamaha set up) The piston to cylinder clearance on stock banshees is set loose so your less likely toscrew things up. I broke my stock banshee in during a snow storm at 9000 rpm through every gear and that was the strongest running stock port bike around me. rode it for 4 hrs straight (good break in ha)

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Do two or three heating /cooling cycles,Then take it for a spin ,You should bring into the power in every gear only 4 2-3 seconds.also make sure you let the bike slow down under its own power(decelleration).I usually do 5 gears of accelleration 5 gears decel so u break in both sides of the rings After one tank you will feel the bike running better Letter rip

If its bone stock (yamaha set up) The piston to cylinder clearance on stock banshees is set loose so your less likely toscrew things up. I broke my stock banshee in during a snow storm at 9000 rpm through every gear and that was the strongest running stock port bike around me. rode it for 4 hrs straight (good break in ha)

 

must i do heating cycles? if so, how long should i heat it for, and how long should it cool for. in the break in secrets, they just said make sure its fully warmed up before you ride it hard, ddnt mention heat cycles. it said only for forged pistons, like wiseco, you must heat cycle so it does not swell.

 

and by decceleration, it it i hold the throttle wide open and let go and let it idle?

or? how?

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