Hiram Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 My cases are split now due to melting the push rod to the ball and shifter lever....My question is this are there any upgrades I should do now that they are apart??? My current setup is major porting including windows and case matching, stock reed cages are also ported, stock cylinders with .40 over pistons, 180psi on the head running 100 octane, stock 26mm carbs with 460 mains and 35 pilots, no air box, CPI pipes, 16/40 gearing I ride high speed trails and ocasional asphault racing, when racing I find myself looking for a 7th gear. Is there any 6th gear modification I could take advantage to give me more top end without sacraficing my lower gears? Should I or not buy bigger carbs??? and if so, which size and what jetting would get me in the ball park to my current fuel needs? Even though currently the bike runs like a champs and screams with no hessitation at all throughout the throttle. ANY AND ALL COMMENTS ARE WELCOME....THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcard2 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 I would recommend having your crankshaft trued and welded, costs between $50 and $70 and is good insurance. You should also closely inspect your shift forks for wear and damage, now would be the time to replace them. Also closely inspect your bearings for smooth operation. Make sure you do a pancake bearing clutch adjuster to avoid the ball-rod problem again. I prefer the cascade innovations style. You could look into the rz350 tranny ratios available or some of the billet gear offerings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 My cases are split now due to melting the push rod to the ball and shifter lever....My question is this are there any upgrades I should do now that they are apart??? My current setup is major porting including windows and case matching, stock reed cages are also ported, stock cylinders with .40 over pistons, 180psi on the head running 100 octane, stock 26mm carbs with 460 mains and 35 pilots, no air box, CPI pipes, 16/40 gearing I ride high speed trails and ocasional asphault racing, when racing I find myself looking for a 7th gear. Is there any 6th gear modification I could take advantage to give me more top end without sacraficing my lower gears? Should I or not buy bigger carbs??? and if so, which size and what jetting would get me in the ball park to my current fuel needs? Even though currently the bike runs like a champs and screams with no hessitation at all throughout the throttle. ANY AND ALL COMMENTS ARE WELCOME....THANKS! If you are going with 16/40 gearing and can pull it you wont want any more top end. Depending on the porting you may need bigger carbs (all depends on how much the port job can flow). There are all kinds of things you can do in the tranny, forks, straight cut gears, bearings on the shift shaft, bearings on the shift drum, remove dogs from gears, heavy duty bearings, port match the cases, etch the crank chamber, the list goes on. I run a "close ratio" 6th gear which is a little shorter then stock (closer ratio to fifth) not sure if you can find a taller one or not. But like I said, with 16/40 I don't think you'll be looking to go any faster if you can pull it! Sp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 My cases are split now due to melting the push rod to the ball and shifter lever....My question is this are there any upgrades I should do now that they are apart??? My current setup is major porting including windows and case matching, stock reed cages are also ported, stock cylinders with .40 over pistons, 180psi on the head running 100 octane, stock 26mm carbs with 460 mains and 35 pilots, no air box, CPI pipes, 16/40 gearing I ride high speed trails and ocasional asphault racing, when racing I find myself looking for a 7th gear. Is there any 6th gear modification I could take advantage to give me more top end without sacraficing my lower gears? Should I or not buy bigger carbs??? and if so, which size and what jetting would get me in the ball park to my current fuel needs? Even though currently the bike runs like a champs and screams with no hessitation at all throughout the throttle. ANY AND ALL COMMENTS ARE WELCOME....THANKS! Wow, those are huge jet sizes for stock carbs, i would get a duneable overide, i LOVE mine. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 are you sure your setup is right? 460 mains and 35 pilots?? something doesnt seem right. are you sure you dont have an airleak? those are HUGE jets for what youre saying you have. in fact ive never heard of anyone running any more than about a 400 main and 30 pilot. i think something is wrong with your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiram Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) Wow, those are huge jet sizes for stock carbs, i would get a duneable overide, i LOVE mine. :cool: What exactly is a duneable overide? What difference those it make? I have seen 1-5 or 2-5 what does that mean? will I only be shifting 5 gears and not 6? Edited December 30, 2008 by Hiram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiram Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) are you sure your setup is right? 460 mains and 35 pilots?? something doesnt seem right. are you sure you dont have an airleak? those are HUGE jets for what youre saying you have. in fact ive never heard of anyone running any more than about a 400 main and 30 pilot. i think something is wrong with your setup. I'm sure of the jet sizes 460/35, I've been tenkering with the jetting to get it right and I put them in myself. Those sizes seem way too big for me too but that's what the bike runs best with. Now you have me thinking....How do I do a airleak test? and will the test point out the leak source? Note* I ported the transfers all the way up to the windows and reshaping the tunnel for more flow and raised the port window 1mm. I did this myself using water flow to show what areas could use improvement by looking at the water flow , lots of material was removed. A local mechanic siad to me that my jets are way too big also and it was because I took to much off when porting and it caused a lost of air velocity,but to me that doesn't seem right, to me less air=less fuel, besides my bike was running faster than his equally built bikes so I played him no mind........ But locogato your explaination makes alot of sense to me, I want to run a airleak test right away, what will I need? Edited December 30, 2008 by Hiram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 I'm sure of the jet sizes 460/35, I've been tenkering with the jetting to get it right and I put them in myself. Those sizes seem way too big for me too but that's what the bike runs best with. Now you have me thinking....How do I do a airleak test? and will the test point out the leak source? Note* I ported the transfers all the way up to the windows and reshaping the tunnel for more flow and raised the port window 1mm. I did this myself using water flow to show what areas could use improvement by looking at the water flow , lots of material was removed. A local mechanic siad to me that my jets are way too big also and it was because I took to much off when porting and it caused a lost of air velocity,but to me that doesn't seem right, to me less air=less fuel, besides my bike was running faster than his equally built bikes so I played him no mind........ But locogato your explaination makes alot of sense to me, I want to run a airleak test right away, what will I need? Holy crap i have never heard of some one running a 460 main jet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wacko2000 Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 What is your elevation? are you stock carbs bored out? I have 390-32.5 in my stock carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hiram Posted December 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 (edited) What is your elevation?are you stock carbs bored out? I have 390-32.5 in my stock carbs. Im in Miami, Florida @ sea level usaully riding in 70 -80 degree weather, stock carbs nothing done to them, running a toomey 2into1 airfilter Edited December 30, 2008 by Hiram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted December 30, 2008 Report Share Posted December 30, 2008 You should replace all the engine seals while it's apart, especially the crank seals. Use threebond 1194 to reseal the case together. Then you will need to have a leak down test done to ensure there are no air leaks. Those are some extremely large jets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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