donkeypuncher Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 (edited) i ordered a clymer off of ebay 3 weeks ago and it still hasnt come but i need to know what to torque the nuts for the head to so i get the shee back together. appreciate the help! dp Edited December 27, 2008 by donkeypuncher Quote
jasons Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 i ordered a clymer off of ebay 3 weeks ago and it still hasnt come but i need to know what to torque the nuts for the head to so i get the shee back together. appreciate the help! dp 20 ft/lbs Quote
Snopczynski Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 20 ft/lbs 8mm= 20-23 ft lbs. I usually do them at 22 ft lbs. Quote
dajogejr Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 8mm= 20-23 ft lbs. I usually do them at 22 ft lbs. Ditto. The key is to tighten them down in a star type sequence to get nice even pattern. I usually do mine all at 15, then 20, then 22.... I'm picky about that shit though.. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 Ditto. The key is to tighten them down in a star type sequence to get nice even pattern. I usually do mine all at 15, then 20, then 22.... I'm picky about that shit though.. Same cept I did mine 14 18 22, either way it's the same thing Quote
jimbob Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 (edited) is that just for the head or do them settings cover the barrels as well? my barrels are due back any day now from a rebore and new pistons so ile be needing this info too. hope you all had a good christmas :biggrin: Edited December 27, 2008 by jimbob Quote
locogato11283 Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 i dont torque anything.l.. just tighten that shit down. start it up and let it run for a while. then recheck. i once torqued a noss head to the required poundage. after i started it up i noticed coolant leaking in a couple spots. so i just used my own guess as to how tight it should be, and it solved the issue. i think that was the last time i tried to torque anything. Quote
sleeper06 Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 Sometimes it better to be good-n-tite then torqued Also remember torq value decreases if you use extensions anyway so use better judgement and u will b fine Quote
captainhowdie Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 Sometimes it better to be good-n-tite then torqued Also remember torq value decreases if you use extensions anyway so use better judgement and u will b fine I am also about to put my top end back together.This is my first time. Wondering if there is a torque spec for the jugs? thanks! Quote
donkeypuncher Posted December 27, 2008 Author Report Posted December 27, 2008 cool, thanks for the help fellas. Quote
Bansh-eman Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 I torque the head, the cylinders, and the case halfs, everything else on the bike is just tightened by feel. On parts that are crucial I lock tight them. Quote
#1banshee Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 i have the nology wires and I need a ground spot. Since we are talking about the head can i un bolt 1 bolt put the wire on and then tighten it to spec? Or is that bad just 2 un loose 1 bolt and then put it back on? Dont mean to jump your thread by any means. Quote
SAVAGE420 Posted December 27, 2008 Report Posted December 27, 2008 I am also about to put my top end back together.This is my first time. Wondering if there is a torque spec for the jugs? thanks! Torque the head and cylinders the same :thumbsup: Quote
Bansh-eman Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 i have the nology wires and I need a ground spot. Since we are talking about the head can i un bolt 1 bolt put the wire on and then tighten it to spec? Or is that bad just 2 un loose 1 bolt and then put it back on? Dont mean to jump your thread by any means. your fine to put the grounds on the head. I have one ground running to each of the farthest forward studs and torqued down. Quote
locogato11283 Posted December 29, 2008 Report Posted December 29, 2008 your fine to put the grounds on the head. I have one ground running to each of the farthest forward studs and torqued down. yea thats a good spot. dont have to worry about anything rusting or corroding there.. Quote
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