"Kwik Shift" Kit

[2strokespirit]

I have the Zeeltronic Programable CDI, it has TONS of functions and has this quick shift function also, still in the progress of installing and fine tunning, Spoke to a guy on RD Dreams who has it and says it works like a BOMB!!!

[blowit]

I have the Zeeltronic Programable CDI, it has TONS of functions and has this quick shift function also, still in the progress of installing and fine tunning, Spoke to a guy on RD Dreams who has it and says it works like a BOMB!!!

 

 

 

many of these types of ignitions require use of a contact switch for operation of an ignition interrupt. To use a contactless sensor, the designer would have to designate a certain switch or type of switching to tune accordingly. MSD has had these for pro bikes for years. They work well for street aps but we were unable to get any reliability with a contact type switching. Keep in mind, the switch must repeat to the millisecond to work well for this application. The really nice thing with our contacless sensor is the ability to tune the shift point without messing with the switch itself. Basically adjusting the sensitivity of the switch and the trip circuit.

 

Those guys do have some nice logic circuits though and do great work with PV controlling.

Edited December 15, 2008 by blowit

[bbcmudtruck]

Why you gotta put down somebody's intelligence? I'm simply trying to get educated on the subject. Not bashed. All I'm sayin is, I own a 4mil in my bike, and have not had ANY problems with the tranny. Instead of putting me down, why don't you tell me what I need to do, when I go to the 10mil. I just have a hard time believing that a bigger motor would make the transmission shift harder. Show me some proof, or some threads on here where people are bitching about it. I can't find any, except this one. I can see where a bigger motor would put more stress on a transmission and make it wear out faster. I just can't see taking a perfect transmission, putting it in a bigger motor, and now all of a sudden it shifts like shit.

 

When I went from ported cylinders to a cub, I could no longer shift under heavy load either. I'm not sure what caused it, but thats what happend.

[2strokespirit]

many of these types of ignitions require use of a contact switch for operation of an ignition interrupt. To use a contactless sensor, the designer would have to designate a certain switch or type of switching to tune accordingly. MSD has had these for pro bikes for years. They work well for street aps but we were unable to get any reliability with a contact type switching. Keep in mind, the switch must repeat to the millisecond to work well for this application. The really nice thing with our contacless sensor is the ability to tune the shift point without messing with the switch itself. Basically adjusting the sensitivity of the switch and the trip circuit.

 

Those guys do have some nice logic circuits though and do great work with PV controlling.

 

I will get all the functions, true for the switch part, this one can also be fine tuned for the quick shift part, remember this is a cdi, YPVS PROGRAMABLE unit with tons of functions for a REAL good price... I think its one of the coolest products I have ever purchased for my RZ Banshee..

[blowit]

I will get all the functions, true for the switch part, this one can also be fine tuned for the quick shift part, remember this is a cdi, YPVS PROGRAMABLE unit with tons of functions for a REAL good price... I think its one of the coolest products I have ever purchased for my RZ Banshee..

 

 

 

I will not knock your CDI as I am sure it works well but keep in mind our kit "includes" all custom designed brackets and switching so there is no R&D work. You may need to better define fine tuning with that CDI though. You will easily wrap 50 dollars in comparable switching to ours in the US. Production costs are another story. While I can vouch for quality in our shop, I cannot in others. We have to maintain certain minimums here and hard sometimes to compete with other parts of the world. We see more and more jobs going to other countries every day so I am sure it is just a matter of time before we have no choice but to have our components built elsewhere just to make a sale.

[brian]

Why you gotta put down somebody's intelligence? I'm simply trying to get educated on the subject. Not bashed. All I'm sayin is, I own a 4mil in my bike, and have not had ANY problems with the tranny. Instead of putting me down, why don't you tell me what I need to do, when I go to the 10mil. I just have a hard time believing that a bigger motor would make the transmission shift harder. Show me some proof, or some threads on here where people are bitching about it. I can't find any, except this one. I can see where a bigger motor would put more stress on a transmission and make it wear out faster. I just can't see taking a perfect transmission, putting it in a bigger motor, and now all of a sudden it shifts like shit.

 

Dude,

I just read this whole thread and you were arguing with sheerider about his statement that more horsepower makes it harder to shift. It didn't seem to me that you were just trying to "learn" anything from the attitude of your posts.

Funny that when someone with more experience (red) chimes in that you become all humble and hurt that you are getting bashed.

Some people on here might have some helpful experience for you if you are willing to listen.

[2strokespirit]

I will not knock your CDI as I am sure it works well but keep in mind our kit "includes" all custom designed brackets and switching so there is no R&D work. You may need to better define fine tuning with that CDI though. You will easily wrap 50 dollars in comparable switching to ours in the US. Production costs are another story. While I can vouch for quality in our shop, I cannot in others. We have to maintain certain minimums here and hard sometimes to compete with other parts of the world. We see more and more jobs going to other countries every day so I am sure it is just a matter of time before we have no choice but to have our components built elsewhere just to make a sale.

 

The Zeeltronic ignitions is some of the best around in my opinion (much more functions then a dynatek anyway), a few members on here have them and tons on RD dreams have them, he builds units for almost every 2-stroke, its smaller than n banshee cdi, with so much functions, the one little black box controls the spark, YPVS system if you have it etc, etc, etc with programmable handheld computer, you can program on the field, switch to change curves on the fly... His customer service are the best ever and for me been a builder for about 14 years in my country, I import lots of things from the US, but this is something in its own class, not trying to say yours is not, will never if I don't try it, Like the whole "no switch" design... The units owners manual is in my shop, will get it and share it to you guys...

[gregrob]

Why you gotta put down somebody's intelligence? I'm simply trying to get educated on the subject. Not bashed. All I'm sayin is, I own a 4mil in my bike, and have not had ANY problems with the tranny. Instead of putting me down, why don't you tell me what I need to do, when I go to the 10mil. I just have a hard time believing that a bigger motor would make the transmission shift harder. Show me some proof, or some threads on here where people are bitching about it. I can't find any, except this one. I can see where a bigger motor would put more stress on a transmission and make it wear out faster. I just can't see taking a perfect transmission, putting it in a bigger motor, and now all of a sudden it shifts like shit.

 

 

LMFAO dude you are arguing with guys who have been doing this stuff for years. You ask if it will be hard to shift and someone tells you then you get all pissy and say "show me some proof" WHY THE FOCK should THEY have to show YOU proof?

 

You're the one asking of opinions and not liking what you hear.

 

If you're 10mil cub runs worth half a fart you will have trouble shifting in sand with a good load against the engine.

 

You better budget for an override (and make it a duneable if it's going to be a play bike).

 

There are other mods you can do on a big power bike to get it to shift without an override, but good luck getting anyone to teach you with that attitude.

[dajogejr]

Why you gotta put down somebody's intelligence? I'm simply trying to get educated on the subject. Not bashed. All I'm sayin is, I own a 4mil in my bike, and have not had ANY problems with the tranny. Instead of putting me down, why don't you tell me what I need to do, when I go to the 10mil. I just have a hard time believing that a bigger motor would make the transmission shift harder. Show me some proof, or some threads on here where people are bitching about it. I can't find any, except this one. I can see where a bigger motor would put more stress on a transmission and make it wear out faster. I just can't see taking a perfect transmission, putting it in a bigger motor, and now all of a sudden it shifts like shit.

 

2001...I didn't read that as a put down to you....I read that as him saying you haven't been around bigger motor bikes.

Don't worry about gregrob...he gets sand in his vagina when you talk about his self proclaimed engine gods...

 

However, I do agree...when you really start putting the HP to the ground, no matter what you do to make the bike shift better, short of an override or solution like this...it's not going to shift half or more than half the time.

 

I've seen it and experienced it with my own bikes.

 

Brandon...

 

Glad you chimed in. Why would you go with this vs. an override...be it regular or dunable.

Aside from the cost factor (overrides are only 300 to 450 or so...) and I understand this box is half that...but wouldn't the mechanical setup of an override have a large advantage over this?

 

I'm not debating....really, I'm discussing. And as always...I value your input and thoughts.

[dragbanshee]

Yes, very interesting what you can do whith old technology, electrical wise!

 

Versus manually going in and modifying.

[regalrocket]

2001...I didn't read that as a put down to you....I read that as him saying you haven't been around bigger motor bikes.

Don't worry about gregrob...he gets sand in his vagina when you talk about his self proclaimed engine gods...

 

However, I do agree...when you really start putting the HP to the ground, no matter what you do to make the bike shift better, short of an override or solution like this...it's not going to shift half or more than half the time.

 

I've seen it and experienced it with my own bikes.

 

Brandon...

 

Glad you chimed in. Why would you go with this vs. an override...be it regular or dunable.

Aside from the cost factor (overrides are only 300 to 450 or so...) and I understand this box is half that...but wouldn't the mechanical setup of an override have a large advantage over this?

 

I'm not debating....really, I'm discussing. And as always...I value your input and thoughts.

 

My experiances with setups like these say that it would be great for the racer, and weekend rider. It will allow easy shifting ALL the time, and will not require any tranny mods (shift star of course helps). The other advantage is that because it breaks that gear tooth pressure, that it will remove alot of component stress. You have a huge lever (shift lever) that you can really torque the crap out of components. If you can remove that stress, you will be less prone to breaking stuff. This is why the bike guys use setups like these. You add an interupter and a air shift cylinder and solenoid, and you can bang gears so fast it makes you giggle.

[dajogejr]

My thoughts are I would rather rely on mechanics that electronics...and just about anyone can cut a banshee tranny now a days.

They are very popular, and their overrides are very forgiving.

 

I do appreciate your thoughts, and would like Brandon's as well.

[2001Stroker]

Dude,

I just read this whole thread and you were arguing with sheerider about his statement that more horsepower makes it harder to shift. It didn't seem to me that you were just trying to "learn" anything from the attitude of your posts.

Funny that when someone with more experience (red) chimes in that you become all humble and hurt that you are getting bashed.

Some people on here might have some helpful experience for you if you are willing to listen.

I wasn't trying to argue with anyone. I was saying that I didn't understand how this could happen, and it turned into an argument over some dumb shit. True, I've never owned a 10mil banshee engine. So what, I never said that I was an expert on them. I can take advise and constructive critisism just as good as anybody else on here. I am willing to listen to people that know their shit. I just don't like it when people come off cocky, and act like they're better than me. I've gotten a few PM's from people regarding this, and I do understand the concept now. With more power, the gears mesh together tighter, and that makes them stick a little when coming out of gear. On the flip side, I've gotten PM's from people that said they've never had this happen on their 10mil bikes, and they don't know what the fuss is all about. From the sound of it, it's a 50/50 coin flip, with your transmission shifting like crap. I don't drag race or ride in sand, like alot of you guys, so I'm gonna try it without the modifications. If I screw up the transmission, or it's hard to shift, then I guess you can say, I told ya so.

[dajogejr]

2001...

Sometimes you're gonna have to have some faith in people that not only talk the talk, but walk the walk.

 

In my humble opinion, putting a 10 mil stock or aftermarket cylinder motor together without at least a dunable override AND lockup would be pointless.

 

I'm sure most, not all, would agree with that statement. When you take a transmission and clutch and expose it to 3 times (or more) the HP and Torque it was designed to handle...you will quite easily find it's limits.

 

I know you're not a drag racer, etc.

But...

If you're going to build a motor with that kind of power, wouldn't you like to be able to use it...and get it to the ground?

 

A stock tranny and clutch aren't gonna do that on any 10 mil....again, in my opinion.

 

Also remember, typing and reading on a forum don't show attitude, sarcasm or intent sometimes. If he flat out called you an asshole MF'er SOB, etc., I'd be with you 100%. He just made a statement you haven't been around bigger motor bikes, that's all.

 

Which...I agree...as well as you do.

 

I come off as a complete and total asshole on here all the time. Partly because I don't sugar coat everything.

I know I come off as brash...stuck up....etc. Those that actually know me would tell you I'm 100% down to earth and here to help.

 

 

No biggie....best of luck to ya either way.

[blowit]

My thoughts are I would rather rely on mechanics that electronics...and just about anyone can cut a banshee tranny now a days.

They are very popular, and their overrides are very forgiving.

 

I do appreciate your thoughts, and would like Brandon's as well.

 

 

 

D, I guess we are in the opposite side of the court. We prefer electronics over mechanics because of the tunability. I really feel it is a toss up in using an override trans or our manual shift interupter. However, as mentioned, once you apply a powered shifter, the electronic side would have an advantage. Our site only shows a kit for the Banshee but we have built kits for several other bikes where overrides are not being cut so there is no option B on that side. The cons we see with our kit are that it does have to cut engine power for shifting and this could show up in a crag race but there are generally other, larger factors that would affect an ET.

 

The cons we have seen on the override are just wear and tear as you "are" reducing the power handling of the trans but cutting it. We also have a few racers that refuse to run an override simple because of parts availability. Guess you can always have another trans sitting around too though.

 

This is kind of why we feel our kit and an override are a near toss up but ours costs less and takes less effort to install. :biggrin:

 

 

Regarding hard shifts. One thing people commonly miss in hard shifting transmissions is the ""clutch"". No unload, No shifty!! One trick we have done in the past is slightly bend the drive plates so they actually help disengage the clutch a bit once the pressure plate is off the plates. Clutch plates that stick together can cause enough drag on the trans to make the trans hard to shift. You also would need to take a HARD look at the inner and outer clutch hubs. Nearly every single hard shifting bike we have looked at, had grooves worn into the hubs.

 

The banshee trans is deficient in many way from better designs. One of which is the lack of roller bearings on the shift drum, another is the shift detent mechanism (shift star), another is in the throw or travel from gear to gear. We started doing a mod on the shift drums about 3 yrs ago to add bearings to the shift cam and it helps a TON but we have not had much demand for it.

 

We have fought hard shifting bikes for years so our shift box is what we saw as the simplest fix as well as a good performance add on. I think any Banshee over 75HP should be looking at ways to ensure the trans is going to work right. Nothing more irritating that having over 100HP and getting beat down by a 350 bike because you cannot shift....

 

 

Brandon