piston damadge what now?

[trickyrino]

i have a piston that is destroyed it looks like the upper ring came apart. this is my first banshee and i have the topend off i think im going to get the clynders bore .30 over (due to cylnder wear) i would be fine with a stock motor, new pistons, and put it back together but how much should the rods move around on the crank. should i consider changing the bearings on the crank and the rods thimselfs.

[sheerider1026]

what year is the bike?? do you know what bore its on?? if its still on stock bore i would say the crank is ok. i would still look at it close.. as far as the rods, yes they will wiggle a little side to side, this is normal.. just send them to F.A.S.T or passion racing to get them bored.. only bore as much as you need to clean the cylinders up.. sometime re-ringing a motor will get you by, but if the piston/cylinder clearence is too much the motor will be loose and not last long.. or cause more severe damage..

[trickyrino]

what year is the bike?? do you know what bore its on?? if its still on stock bore i would say the crank is ok. i would still look at it close.. as far as the rods, yes they will wiggle a little side to side, this is normal.. just send them to F.A.S.T or passion racing to get them bored.. only bore as much as you need to clean the cylinders up.. sometime re-ringing a motor will get you by, but if the piston/cylinder clearence is too much the motor will be loose and not last long.. or cause more severe damage..

 

 

 

its a 2001 im pretty sure the cyders are stock bore i think the bike was overheated it has a new radator also the dome is shot to and i have no idea what size the are so you think the rods are ok, i hope so because i dont want to open the bottom end

[98_shee]

Did the piston come apart? If so i would split the cases just to make sure there is nothing in their. And you can also inspect the crank bearings while its apart. Like stated b4 only bore as much as you have to so you can get as much life out of the jugs as possible. Call Jeff at fast he is a great guy and has great costomer sevice.

 

 

Oh and welcome to the HQ :beer:

Edited December 7, 2008 by 98_shee

[2strokecook]

as stated by 98 shee if there was anything coming apart i would split the case. It is really not that bad and is worth the time just knowing that the crank bearings arn't shot or there's not a bunch of shit and aluminum shavings or bits in the bottom end.

[papa_smurf49319]

on your rods, side to side is ok to a extent. Up and down is not! Correct me if i am wrong but the stock crank is not rebuildable so you cant get the rods of the rod journals of the crank!

Edited December 7, 2008 by papa_smurf49319

[Big_Dave]

on your rods, side to side is ok to a extent. Up and down is not! Correct me if i am wrong but the stock crank is not rebuildable so you cant get the rods of the rod journals of the crank!

 

I do not beleave that the oem crank is rebuildable. im pretty sure if the connecting rod moves back and forth more than 2mm at the top, its hammerd. i think that equals out to roughly .078 inch

[firebanshee]

Obviously it is best to split the case, but i have put new pistons in my bike at camp on several occassions, i always dumped my mixed fuel in the case and alot of compressed air, this works in a jam and is better than not riding my bike when i am out camping, but you are taking a chance.

[sandshee]

connecting rod side clearance on the crank journal should be between .0098 min and .0295 max if you can pull up and down on the rod and feel it moving replace it (crank bearings) but that can only be done by a crank shop or someone with a press and experiance.

good luck